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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Benchtop Machines > Harbor Freight 42827 Build / Conversion Thread
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    66

    Harbor Freight 42827 Build / Conversion Thread

    I had posted a thread a week or so ago (original thread) about converting the HF 4827 Geared Head Milling Machine. I realize this mill is unpopular because of the round column, but it was a deal I could not pass up. I'll be posting pics & files as I progress.

    My plans for the mill are to use parts off of my router table to convert the mill to a 4 axis cnc using my 4 axis Xylotex board & a rotary table.

    I will also build dampeners based on S_J_H's damper design.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    66

    Transportation

    I had to take the mill apart in its original location to get it to my garage. It broke down very easily but was still very heavy to move.

    Here is a shot of a few pieces still in my wife's car:

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    66

    Oil Leak

    When I got the machine there was an obvious oil leak coming out of the oil fluid level indicator:



    Based on Grae-Tech's experience, I was afraid there was sand left in the gear head, causing the quill to overheat, damaging the seals. I took the quill apart & inspected the inside but everything looked very clean.



    Looks like the oil fluid level indicator itself was fitted very loosely, so I wrapped Teflon tape around the indicator itself & pressed it back into place. No leaks so far!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    66

    All Built

    Here is a pic of the re-assembly process. For now I am keeping everything stock. Down the road I'll consider upgrading to ball screws.



    stay tuned!

  5. #5
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    Jun 2006
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    66

    Plans for X-Axis Conversion


  6. #6
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    Jun 2006
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    66

    Plans for Y-Axis Conversion


  7. #7
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    Jun 2006
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    66

    Z- Axis Assembly

    The z-axis seems a bit tricky, as there is no great place to mount the motor support. The closest existing screw holes are located on top of the quill. This setup controls the Spindle Micro Feed Handle - about 5" of z travel.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    66
    I'll be cutting the motor mounts from aluminum I plan to order from metals depot. They seem to have good prices on aluminum stock.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7063
    Quote Originally Posted by stabbs View Post
    I'll be cutting the motor mounts from aluminum I plan to order from metals depot. They seem to have good prices on aluminum stock.
    I think you'll find onlinemetals.com is usually cheaper....

    You do realize driving through the quill feed mechanism you will have considerable backlash to deal with?

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  10. #10
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    Jun 2006
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    66
    Thanks for the metal site, Ray. I was not aware of the backlash on the quill feed- can that backlash be tightened?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    7063
    Quote Originally Posted by stabbs View Post
    Thanks for the metal site, Himy. I was not aware of the backlash on the quill feed- can that backlash be tightened?
    You might be able to reduce it, but you can't eliminate it, so there will always be an uncertainty in your quill position, as the cutting forces will push and pull the quill within the range of the backlash. Quill feeds are usually done by driving the quill directly for exactly this reason.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    I think you will find that this place is cheaper than both the other places.
    It's where I get most of my metals.
    http://www.speedymetals.com/

    I sometimes use Yarde Metals in the Drop zone, but they rarely have what I need. Cheap though when they do.

    http://www.yarde.com/index.html
    Lee

  13. #13
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    Feb 2006
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    7063
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeWay View Post
    I think you will find that this place is cheaper than both the other places.
    It's where I get most of my metals.
    http://www.speedymetals.com/

    I sometimes use Yarde Metals in the Drop zone, but they rarely have what I need. Cheap though when they do.

    http://www.yarde.com/index.html
    I dunno.... I just checked a few items against onlinemetals, and onlinemetals was cheaper.... Better selection as well.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    6618
    It may depend on what you need. I generally get CRS sheet in 12 and 13 gage.
    1x3/8" 6061 aluminum bar and 3/8" and 9/16" brass rod.
    These things are for my products.

    I did use Online metals when I started out, but they don't carry the CRS unless they just started doing so.

    I do sometimes get the brass and aluminum from Enco. When they have free shipping and I buy in amounts of 4 or more, they can be cheaper.

    The best though is Yarde metals when they have what you need. You have to buy $75 worth of stuff to eliminate an $18 per item charge.

    I will compare online again though, since you mentioned it being cheaper.
    Thanks.
    Lee

  15. #15
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    Jun 2006
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    Thanks for the metal info- when I get my material list together I'll post the final price & list.

    You might be able to reduce it, but you can't eliminate it, so there will always be an uncertainty in your quill position, as the cutting forces will push and pull the quill within the range of the backlash. Quill feeds are usually done by driving the quill directly for exactly this reason.
    Right now I am stuck using the quill feed as this mill has the round column. Maybe I can rig up something to keep the quill from rotating while the collar is loose. I did lift up on the spindle & felt the backlash. The weight of the spindle will probably be enough to cut through plastic & acrylic without experiencing much backlash. I'm going to sleep on this one & decide tomorrow which route to take.

  16. #16
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    Jun 2006
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    66
    I added some tension to the spindle by gently tightening the handle rod on the left-hand side of the quill- I guess this is used to lock the spindle at depth. This seemed to eliminate the play I was getting by pushing up on the spindle. Am I missing something here?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    1185
    Quote Originally Posted by stabbs View Post
    I added some tension to the spindle by gently tightening the handle rod on the left-hand side of the quill- I guess this is used to lock the spindle at depth. This seemed to eliminate the play I was getting by pushing up on the spindle. Am I missing something here?

    I have a RF-31 too.

    I have seen two ways to remove the backlash from the Z, one is to pull the quill up tighter with the return spring and a added spring. This will work but most bits pull down so they might be able to dig in in some types of cuts.

    The setup I liked the best is using a spring shock pushing down on the quill and the stepper having to lift against the shock. This system would never allow the bit to dig in.

    How much play do you have in your quill?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1804
    I found I could "minimize" the backlash on my RE31 quill by loosing the two screws on the worm feed housing and tapping the whole housing forward to take up most of the backlash. Be careful as you can go to far and get serious binding.
    Dan Mauch got rid of his by making and eccentric bushing for the left side pinion bearing (where the return spring is) and moving the gearbox as above.

    Hey, worked for me:})
    Art
    AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    66
    Thanks for the great info regarding the z axis backlash.

    I found I could "minimize" the backlash on my RE31 quill by loosing the two screws on the worm feed housing and tapping the whole housing forward to take up most of the backlash. Be careful as you can go to far and get serious binding.
    I think I may have inadvertently done this when I re-assembled the quill.

    Dan Mauch got rid of his by making and eccentric bushing for the left side pinion bearing (where the return spring is) and moving the gearbox as above.
    Do you have a link to this please?

    The setup I liked the best is using a spring shock pushing down on the quill and the stepper having to lift against the shock. This system would never allow the bit to dig in.
    Do you have any images or a link of how this is done?

    Here is an image of how I eliminated the backlash. I have not tried this while machining. I tested this by pressing up on the spindle. I am getting about 1/32" - 1/16" of play.


  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1804
    " Dan Mauch got rid of his by making and eccentric bushing for the left side pinion bearing (where the return spring is) and moving the gearbox as above."

    Do you have a link to this please?

    Dan sent it to me in doc. format. PM me with a mail address and I will forward it to you. I don't think he will mind as he sent it to several of us way back when!
    Art
    AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)

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