[dango]

When I am making drilling the drill is not in the center
Can anybody can explain who to adjust the turret
That it will be in the center
the machine is Hardinge Conquest 42

[Cruiser]

I'm not familiar with your machine, but in general, the culprit is a damaged locating pin, from a crash ! Sometimes there are adjustments with the head stock which can be knocked out. I advise to open her up and see for sure. otherwise it will be shim the tools, which is just a short term solution.

[ikneb]

Try this touch the drill off the side of the part and enter the part diameter and plus the drill diameter with the measure soft key or however you set your x axis offset for tools or you can indicate the drill and setup an x axis gridshift not so easy to do but you wont have to set x for center working tools.

[Cruiser]

IKNEB, Haven't you heard that if ya use drill rod in place of drill it is easy to indicate it ?
and that goes for reamers, and any other shank tool.
I don't think that this is what he is asking for tho. I've run chuckers for many years and they get knocked out so a drill will be over or under and offsetting just don't do the trick ! That is when ya get out the wrenches and fix the issue.

[g-codeguy]

When I am making drilling the drill is not in the center
Can anybody can explain who to adjust the turret
That it will be in the center
the machine is Hardinge Conquest 42

It has been a few years, but here goes. Back off any tools touching the center hub on the turret. Remove the turret face plate. Remove the set screws that keep the turret bolts from backing out. Think there are 12 on a 12 station turret. Loosen the bolts. Put the machine in E-Stop. Press the turret index hard key. This will pull the turret locking pin out. Adjust the turret. Usually hand power is sufficient. Probably will need to use a leather, rubber or plastic persuader to move it the last little bit to get the turret on center. Re-tighten bolts. Press the turret index key again to lock the turret. Pin should go in or else you've not lined it up correctly. Put set screws back in. Replace cover. Shove the OD tools back if you pulled them out. Reset tools. Done.

Hope I haven't forgotten anything.

[g-codeguy]

Well???

[Nawrocki4Life]

In order for this to work you need to confirm that the spindle is in alginement. Get something that you know is proven to be straight and put it in your chuck/collet. then with an indicator off the turret top plate, run the indicator along the "arbor" at a 45 degree angle (b/c the head is mounted on an angle) if that is out you gotta loosen the bolts holding the headstock on the base and get that straight. .0002 over 5" is great. after that, then you can mount your indacator on the spindle's face and tram across a flat of the called up station and see if the turret body is straight (x-axis). if its not, then you have to adjust that. Bottom way cover on that axis needs to come off the turret body's side and what ever is in the way of the top bolts on the turret casting. Looking at your part lists will help you figure out what you need to remove. If both are good then what I do is put a coax indicator in the spindle and sweep a tool holder in. Like a boring bar holder. When the turret is out radially you should see your indicator move at the top and bottom of that tool holder (inline with the mounting surface). if thats the case then there is a cover on the middle of the turret top plate. remove this and then loosing the outer most bolt pattern. once this is loose do not index the turret until they are re tighten. with those screws loose you should be able to hit the turret top plate around with a dead blow hammer, hitting a tool holder. While you move the top plate radially, the x position needs to be adjusted as well. you have to play with these 2 things untill you sweep in as close to 0 as possible. If you cant budge the turret top plate, after the screws are loose, you might need to put it in estop b/c of the hydrolics. once you get to the sweet spot the grid needs to be reset. There should have the directions for that in your manual.

Depending on if you have a machine that you need to home out. The set up is diffrent as opposed to the machines that dont need to be homed out. absolute machines just need to be joged to the home position and the apz parameter (1815 or 1850) need to be changed.


if its not absolute then you need to adjust the grid shift parameter. (1815 or 1850). the number in there is a metric number. when you move that tool holder to its on center position, its probably not gonna sweep in zero. (machine position). you need to jog the xaxis to the place where it does sweep zero and take the diffrence of the machine position now. convert that to a metric number and either add or subtract it from the parameter and that should shift you to your true position then.

whenever these parameters are changed the controll needs to be shut off and back on to retain the changes, it will prompt you to do so via a alarm.

[g-codeguy]

In order for this to work you need to confirm that the spindle is in alginement. Get something that you know is proven to be straight and put it in your chuck/collet. then with an indicator off the turret top plate, run the indicator along the "arbor" at a 45 degree angle (b/c the head is mounted on an angle) if that is out you gotta loosen the bolts holding the headstock on the base and get that straight. .0002 over 5" is great. after that, then you can mount your indacator on the spindle's face and tram across a flat of the called up station and see if the turret body is straight (x-axis). if its not, then you have to adjust that. Bottom way cover on that axis needs to come off the turret body's side and what ever is in the way of the top bolts on the turret casting. Looking at your part lists will help you figure out what you need to remove. If both are good then what I do is put a coax indicator in the spindle and sweep a tool holder in. Like a boring bar holder. When the turret is out radially you should see your indicator move at the top and bottom of that tool holder (inline with the mounting surface). if thats the case then there is a cover on the middle of the turret top plate. remove this and then loosing the outer most bolt pattern. once this is loose do not index the turret until they are re tighten. with those screws loose you should be able to hit the turret top plate around with a dead blow hammer, hitting a tool holder. While you move the top plate radially, the x position needs to be adjusted as well. you have to play with these 2 things untill you sweep in as close to 0 as possible. If you cant budge the turret top plate, after the screws are loose, you might need to put it in estop b/c of the hydrolics. once you get to the sweet spot the grid needs to be reset. There should have the directions for that in your manual.

Depending on if you have a machine that you need to home out. The set up is diffrent as opposed to the machines that dont need to be homed out. absolute machines just need to be joged to the home position and the apz parameter (1815 or 1850) need to be changed.


if its not absolute then you need to adjust the grid shift parameter. (1815 or 1850). the number in there is a metric number. when you move that tool holder to its on center position, its probably not gonna sweep in zero. (machine position). you need to jog the xaxis to the place where it does sweep zero and take the diffrence of the machine position now. convert that to a metric number and either add or subtract it from the parameter and that should shift you to your true position then.

whenever these parameters are changed the controll needs to be shut off and back on to retain the changes, it will prompt you to do so via a alarm.

First let me say I think we are discussing things among ourselves. The OP has never posted back with a yea or nay. Doubt he has even read this thread since posting.

Second it is always good to know that your spindle is aligned. Just don't know what that has to do with the drill not being on center. Should be able to adjust the turret to be on center. Can't think of an instance where you could have a crash and knock the spindle out without knocking the turret much further off. However the spindle being out can cause more than one problem which we needn't go into at this time.

I don't agree with how you check spindle alignment. Stick a ground shaft out 6 inches, and I'd be surprised if running an indicator down the length of it showed less than .0005 movement even if the spindle was lined up correctly. I suggest buying a lottery ticket if it does cuz it's your lucky day.

I was taught to take a cut and then check the diameter at both ends. If both ends measure the same, then the spindle is in good shape. I've seen them out .003 or so over approximately 5 inches, and the drills were still on center.

We have had to replace the bearings and realign the spindles on 3 Daewoo Lynx lathes in the past year. I should have saved the bearings so I could take a few pictures. They were in bad shape (and naturally the spindles were out some), yet the drills were still cutting fine.

"If common sense is so common, why is there so little of it?" - Mark Twain