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  1. #109
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    Oct 2010
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    110

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    ahhh, just thought id mention it in this thread than start a new one for such a trivial thing.

    i made end caps and wipers for my ballnuts a while back. just leather washers for the wipers.. they did work but they also reduced one axis' movement by at least 10mm.

    the other month, i suddenly though of what to use. pipecleaners! get the fuzzy ones. wind em in the thread for at least 1.5 full turns, then bend and tie the end over to the nut.

    my previous leather wipers would always let some swarf collect in the crests of the thread, which was slowly making a mess.

    not too mention the difficulty in getting them to wipe rather than get ingested by the screw! very critical on the hole size and the nick required to follow the thread.
    i have tried 1/8 thick o-rings (my ball size) cut and wound on the thread...same deal. they let swarf build on the crests.

    the pipecleaner tends to have fluffy bits here and catch everything.

    on my nuts at least... the ball return has those little tags, which stops the loose end of the pipecleaner going in too far. and one end of the nut has at least four turns of thread unused. (thomson 0.675x0.2")

    just tore the mill down as i now have a surface plate so i can scrape it... and the ballnuts are SPOTLESS inside after chewing up plenty of brass and ally bits.. no more two day cleanout jobs!


    obviously this is really only for the home built things rather than a real machine with decent swarf guards as standard... and when clearance is seriously limited.

    thomson do make proper wiper kits to suit but when one has limited income... and a job that needs doing NOW....
    with so much stuff on hand, one spends more time locating it rather than using it.

  2. #110
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    Nov 2015
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    13

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    I have this 10mm diameter ballscrew with around 3mm pitch, can it be used to replace the leadscrew of the X2 minimill so for CNC conversion?

  3. #111
    Junior Member
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    Jun 2010
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    3911

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    I cut out 99% of the crap which had been getting on my X-axis rails and ballscrew very simply.
    Attachment 303574
    Stiff bookbinding plastic my wife purchased by the roll. Concertina, and painter's sticky tape.
    But hot chips will melt it ... They haven't yet.
    Replace every ... 12 months?

    Cheers
    Roger

  4. #112
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    Aug 2015
    Posts
    7

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    Great article. I know it's kind of an old thread but it answered almost everything I wanted to know about ball screws. I have a question that unless I missed it, I didn't find here.

    I already have one manual lathe and one manual mill. I'm going to buy another lathe and after some time another mill (probably to replace my current ones, not sure yet). They are available with both acme screws or ball screws. I'm going to start with a manual lathe and hopefully turn it to CNC in a while (by doing as little as possible myself and buying as much as possible pre-assembled). I'll use the about 90%-95% manual and 5%-10% CNC. The mill will be about 50% manual/CNC.

    Are there any disadvantages to ball screws on a manual lathe/mill? I think I'll go with acme for the lathe and maybe ball screws for the mill, but not sure. I understand the advantage I'd have with ball screws, but what are the compromises, if there any, when using it manually?

    Thanks

  5. #113
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    Jun 2010
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    3911

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    ACME is old technology (really old), and has enormous backlash.
    Ball screws are 'new' technology and can have greater accuracy and zero backlash.
    But ball screws are usually a little bit more expensive.

    If you are considering a future CNC conversion, there is no point in buying the ACME version now. Go ball screw now and be done with it.

    Cheers
    Roger

  6. #114
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5515

    Re: OK I cant afford ground ballscrews....what's the next best thing?

    Quote Originally Posted by JukeBox View Post
    Anyone knows why in general 1605 ballscrews are cheaper than 1204?
    Because it is probably the most common metric size... In the same way 5/8" ballscrews are the most common and cheapest Imperial size.

  7. #115
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    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    12

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    Hi all,
    I need some advice on what ballscrew should I use for my setup:
    static gantry, moving table router. table's size is around 65x100cm, weigths less than 15 kg, but in future should be replaced with heavier deck. Z axis also weights less than 15 kg
    3 nema 23 motors (one per axis) 283oz-in with around 1.8 mH inductance,
    square rails with some noticeable resistance(not because of missalignment, but because of preload)
    drivers: leadshine ma860
    2x 36v/10A PSUs connected in parallel.

    Considering between 1605 and 1610 screw. would be nice to have a faster machine and lost accuracy is not a problem for me. On the other hand I have doubts that 2Nm motor may be too weak for 10 pitch screw. Having in mind that torque will be reduced because of 4x or 8x microstepping I would choose 5mm pitch but it is difficult to evaluate without testing.
    Please share your opinion or personal experience with similar motors and screws.

  8. #116
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    Apr 2018
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    1

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    Hello, I'm looking for a replacement ball screw.. had an issue with mine, there was some internal damage. The actual piece has a Prep brand logo on it, with the designation sfur 02510d, but i can't seem to find a replacement from them. I think it's basically a SFU2510. I use it for our Z axis, and i'm trying to locate a replacement that has a 330mm spiral length (the overall length is about 400 mm) and is already machined on both ends to be fitted into a bearing and a clamp. It seems like there are lots of generic Chinese pieces like this for less than $200, but I can't seem to find one short enough.

    I would appreciate any help or insight on the subject.. boss is riding me to get this replaced.

  9. #117
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    3911

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    A lot of LOCAL suppliers will cut to length and machine the ends for you.

    Cheers
    Roger

  10. #118
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    Jun 2011
    Posts
    682

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    Do you know if it's rolled or ground? Any tolerance spec on it?

  11. #119

    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    77

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    The article says cheap angular contact 7202 bearings for the end of a ballscrew will result in backlash. But SFK 7202's are quite expensive and I can't find SKF's with seals. Also I can't find any info (oddly) on what grade/precision the SKF would be (or for any 7202's).

    What did other people do for these bearings? Have you had problems, do you measure backlash?

  12. #120
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    3911

    Re: Ballscrew Basics

    ANY single bearing will have backlash. ANY.
    We do not (ever) use a single bearing to support the end of a ball screw. We use double bearings, opposing each other. At the high end we use double angular contact bearings (ACBs) such as 7202, but double deep groove bearing (DGBs) will suffice for many hobbyist machines. In fact, that is the whole point of ACBs: to go in opposition. Don't overload them of course.

    Cheers
    Roger

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