[Arbo]

Those look good, I wish I would have gone that route just for space. I have one of the full upright (bag on top and bottom) grizzly collectors...

[Dylwad]

I cut a hole in the wall and mounted mine outside, and with the water cooled spindle you can have a conversation next to the machine while it's running (depending on what your cutting), and no more fine dust flying around in the shop.

I have a cyclone separator next to the machine too, but only use it when making big wood chips.

From tapatalk

[John Bright]

Arbo and Dylwad,
Thanks for the information on the dust collectors. I think I am going to go with the full size collector so I can connect my planner and chop saw as well. I think when it gets warmer out I will build a bump out on my shed and move the collector out there.

Arbo,
I am really interested in the lithographs you have been creating and amazed by the detail you are getting. I am a little fuzzy on the process though.

1.) Do you have to change your picture to black and white to make it work?

2.) What software are you using for making these are you using Photo V-Carve to create the G-Code? I have Micro-carve V4 which appears similar to the Vectric software.

3.) Are you using the vacuum hold down fixture you built to hold the Corian in place or do you only use that for thin stuff like balsa or Depron.

4.) Did you find the plans for your vacuum hold down on this forum or did you just create your own?

Thanks for all of the help!

[Arbo]

It depends on the software you use, some you need to convert to B&W, some you need to do that and inverse. I have an OLD version of artcam I got from a guy I know that had a big shop that closed down. Before I had that I had som e small program, bmpto something or other that converted images to hight maps and generated the gcode.
I have an extra spoil board about 4 inches thick of glued up MDF, I clamp that down, then just use some 3m-77 on the back of the corian and stick it to the mdf for cutting the lithos. Every now and then I replain the spoil board as it get's cut up or too much residue on it for the glue to stick good.
I saw some other vac hold downs on here, saw how they worked, then drew up my own. 3/4 inch mdf on the base, that cut out the 'channels' for the vac, then 1/4 mdf piece on top with the holes, and connector for the vac hose... I found some sort of plastic piece at home depot that I glued into it to connect the hose to, I think it's a pumbing piece if I remember right.

[crashswiftly]

Arbo,

I don't want to hijack your discussion but needed to drop you a line asking about the limit/home switch setup on the R&P machines. I have been trying to read through the 70 pages on the "Electronic home switches made easy" thread and notice you had folllowed the thread. I am finally getting ready to build my new router and am considering using the hall sensors for homing and then using standard limit switches for the limits. I am using the g540 and I understand that the limits can tie in series with the Estop so you save one of the g540 inputs. My question is about the hall sensors. Since the R&P has dual X would I need to put 2 sensors (1 on X and 1 to slaved A)? I am thinking I saw something about doing this to have the home routine square the gantry to the machine. Am wondering how you ended up going with your setup. I also want to take the moment to just say THANK YOU!. I know you won't remember me, been a long while. But back when you were building your machine, I was just getting started with my MDF router build and had never operated a cnc. Your thread got me hooked on building a future machine based on the 80/20. This week I placed my last needed order to begin actually building that dream. looking back I laugh at the questions I asked as a total newb to the hobby and looking back makes me really appreciate the answers you as well as others on the forum provided.
When I get the new machine running this spring, I'll need to read back though this and hit you up on a little lithopane advise... your nailing this subject!

[Arbo]

I just use one hall sensor on my x. I recall talk about using two, but all mine are in series, so the software wouldn't know which is being hit. When I hope it , it does z then y then x. If you are doing an 80/20 using Ahren's stuff, I'm not sure without some major screw up, it's possible to unsquare the gantry (I had one sides R&P pinion set screws come loose once, but that has been the only time I've seen it 'go bad')

I don't know about putting them in line with the estop, as it seems that would just trigger an estop, so I think that is wrong.

I don't have limit switches, just use 3 halls for zeroing the machine.

[crashswiftly]

Thanks for the response Arbo,

I need to research the limit switch tie, I read a thread where someone is set up this way so if a limit is triggered, the router pulls to safe z, shuts down and the sytem is halted. I tend to leave my machine on extended runs and this seems like a good idea to me, but who knows, I know its not the usual way. My current router has the normal limit setup. when hit, the program just halts but the router remains running. Anyway, I ordered 3 of the halls today so thanks for the info.
J

[John Bright]

Arbo,
Way back in the thread you said you were using Rhino 3D and had the Rhino CAM add-in. My daughter bought a licensed copy of Rhino 4 from one of her classmates at college, but he didn't have the Rhino Cam Add-in/ Plug-in. Where did you find your copy of the add in? Thanks.

John

[Jerseydog]

Arbo how wide is the steel on your y and x axis? I need to know what will be a good rule of thumb when buying it. What series of 80/20 did you use just in case it's different from mine?

Thanks

[Arbo]

Wow, I haven't even looked at this thread in a long time. John, I picked up that stuff from a buddy that had a cabinet shop that he closed down. Jerseydog, off the top of my head I can't remember... my x axis steel is .25 cold rolled, and I had to make it have a 1/2 overhang in order to use the R&P drives. The Y i think is 6 inches.

I just ordered some new bearings (and I have about a dozen on hand already), and a new anti-backlash nut from cncrouter parts, as the old plastic one on my y is worn and showing play. I have replaced that one before. Oddly the one on my Z is fine, or appears to be. But I picked up the new(er) one from crp that has a metal base. Need to find one of those digital level meters so I can get the router back to zero (in an easier way than I have in the past). Also a new plate for the y stepper as I had previously broken off two of the screws. Aaron, what size screw do those plates use to secure the stepper?

So I figure I might as well start breaking down everything and cleaning it all up. Hopefully get it all up and running by this weekend.

I guess as I make things I should put them here rather than on C1's threads. I was looking at the crosshair laser pointer thing for positioning that tweaky has on his page, I think I may do that. Need to figure out if functionality for that is in ger's screen set that I use.

[Arbo]

The single piece ACME nut for my Y was worn and needed replacement, so I ordered a better one from CNCrouterparts. Through loads of time yesterday and this morning I managed to get everything apart, replace loads of bearings, and get it all back together. Though the new ACME nut needed some modification to fit the way I have my system set up. The old plastic one had thinner 'legs' on it, and it was attached via a carriage bolt in the 80/20 sticking out with a nut on it. So the added thickness of the new part pushed the nut out further and caused those nuts to get blocked (during movement) by the nuts holding the Y cold rolled steel onto the 80/20.

I didn't have any T nuts, nor can they be found locally, to attach it with the screws that came with it, nor could a hex wrench fit in-between the Y cold rolled and where the acme nut attaches. Lucky for me, a neighbor is a retired machinist and has a mill, so I had him look at it and he put it on the mill and shaved down the legs a bit.

Getting everything back together was a nightmare (they are built to be used, not taken apart ), but I somehow managed to get it right the first time, did some test planing and everything was level the first run. So re-planed the worktop and it looks good. So now I can get back to work without things coming out a bit 'off', as there is zero play in the Y now.

Next on the board is a plaque for my son's high school marching band. This past week they had their regional competition, and not only won their division (4a) but had the highest score of all the divisions. Was the highest their school ever scored. So lots of happy kids and proud parents.

So far the 'project' is going to be cut from a 24x36 piece of cherry, which I should get next week. I have a local custom wood shop putting one together for me as they have all the stuff needed to make the blank and make it consistent, and I do not. Basic idea shown below. It will have the name of all the kids on it in the middle, broken into groups (brass, percussion, colorguard, etc). I have some silhouettes of different marching band people to put on it as decoration as well.

I figure for all their hard work and dedication they deserve something big to put in their band room so their accomplishment will be known by all that follow through time.

Of course, I'll hopefully be making some other stuff while I wait for that cherry blank to show up. Just haven't figured out what yet.

[Jerseydog]

Arbo,

I will really appreciate if you were to take a look at my thread. I modeled my machine pretty close to yours, hope this doesn't bother you. I will really like your opinion on maybe how to improve my machine. Thanks
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/80_20_...96844-far.html

[Arbo]

Went over and did that. Look forward to more build.

Today I spent time remembering how I cut some grips for a llama .45acp doublestack for a friend of mine. As I had to make a few changes. I cut from wood (zebra) this time. Not liking the results, as there was a good bit of tear out. A few more tweaks needed, and when final is ready to be cut, think I will go with some of that dymondwood or some similar wood looking synthetic.

[CarveOne]

Zebrawood has a coarser, less hard, grain than red oak. A new ball nose end mill and a small step-over value (~0.005" to 0.008") will help make a smoother surface. It will take considerably longer to cut them though.

[Dylwad]

Went over and did that. Look forward to more build.

Today I spent time remembering how I cut some grips for a llama .45acp doublestack for a friend of mine. As I had to make a few changes. I cut from wood (zebra) this time. Not liking the results, as there was a good bit of tear out. A few more tweaks needed, and when final is ready to be cut, think I will go with some of that dymondwood or some similar wood looking synthetic.

If either of these will work, pay for shipping and i'll send you one. They are both 1.5" wide, bottom is 10" long, top has almost 8.25" left.

[Arbo]

Hmm... I need about 3 1/2 inches by 9 inches for these grips. Bummer. Thanks for the offer though.

[Dylwad]

The biggest chunk of dymondwood I have is 2 5/8 x 10x 3/8" ... Red and black. You should take up my offer anyways just to try the stuff out, it's unique to work with. Hard as brass, cuts like hardwood. Splinters hurt like hell. Polishes nice, smells like biology class lol.

[Dylwad]

I have a decent stash

Could do some shredded cash inlays too

[Dylwad]

Corian inlays are super clean too

[Arbo]

You are right, I should have a piece to machine to see if it works as I think it will. Will send a PM so you can figure what shipping would be and let me know.