[robcap]

Didn't it say 600W on the label? still not 750 though.
Hoss

The label does say its 600w, but it also says 90v and 4.5a thats how I came up with 405watts. Not really a big deal since Im sure all of the small china mills are over rated.

[Teyber12]

does anyone think the stand will work with a x3?

[Enraged]

wisp, I'm looking for rear mounted Y axis, belt drive on all axis (this allows people to run servos easily), x axis doesn't matter which side to me.

it looks like a few people are planning on offering conversion kits and/or plans, so do your best to maximize travels (properly supported of course) and if you can get the kit out in a timely manner with the quality of your previous kits, I'll be looking to buy as soon as my mill arrives.

[ellik]

Can someone explain the discrepancy in the numbers? The Grizzly web site states "Motor 1 HP, 110V, 3.2A, single-phase". That just does not add up as 1watt = 0.0013 hp, Do the math and you get : 110*3.2A = 352 Watts = 0,4576 HP...
In comparison the Busy Bee mill is advertised as "Motor 3/4 HP (600W, 1Ph)", but the manual says 110v 600w 2.7A...

I am confused, what is correct here?

[ihavenofish]

wisp, I'm looking for rear mounted Y axis, belt drive on all axis (this allows people to run servos easily), x axis doesn't matter which side to me.

it looks like a few people are planning on offering conversion kits and/or plans, so do your best to maximize travels (properly supported of course) and if you can get the kit out in a timely manner with the quality of your previous kits, I'll be looking to buy as soon as my mill arrives.

for the most travel on the Y, you probably want a rear mount motor. that way its not blocking off the ways limiting it to under 6", under 5" with some sort of Y bellows. you could push out the motor in front, but then its probably just gonna get in the way and smacked by something - like a vise.

theres only 6.5" throat clearance on the bf20 though. i imagine the weiss is about the same. so more travel isnt necessarily usable without furthur mods.

on the x you have lots of travel. the Z would be nice to get more clearance. it would be cool to get the z saddle to overrun the column and inch or so at the top. youll never cut up there so support is a non issue. its just good for clearance when installing long r8 tools.

[ihavenofish]

Can someone explain the discrepancy in the numbers? The Grizzly web site states "Motor 1 HP, 110V, 3.2A, single-phase". That just does not add up as 1watt = 0.0013 hp, Do the math and you get : 110*3.2A = 352 Watts = 0,4576 HP...
In comparison the Busy Bee mill is advertised as "Motor 3/4 HP (600W, 1Ph)", but the manual says 110v 600w 2.7A...

I am confused, what is correct here?

if its a 3 phase motor. 3.2 amps per phase at 110v is just over a kw power draw, which should translate to about 1hp output.

thats the only explanation i can think of.

edit: motor is 1ph brushed dc... . no idea then.

[Enraged]

for the most travel on the Y, you probably want a rear mount motor. that way its not blocking off the ways limiting it to under 6", under 5" with some sort of Y bellows. you could push out the motor in front, but then its probably just gonna get in the way and smacked by something - like a vise.

theres only 6.5" throat clearance on the bf20 though. i imagine the weiss is about the same. so more travel isnt necessarily usable without furthur mods.

on the x you have lots of travel. the Z would be nice to get more clearance. it would be cool to get the z saddle to overrun the column and inch or so at the top. youll never cut up there so support is a non issue. its just good for clearance when installing long r8 tools.

Grizzly lists 6 7/8" of travel in Y

[ihavenofish]

Grizzly lists 6 7/8" of travel in Y

they cound traveling off the front of the dovetail.

the base is 340mm long. the saddle is 180mm. the column dovetail sits about 15-20mm into the base. so fully supported with no way cover you can get 140-145mm. the rest comes from traveling over the end.

thats why i suggest rear mount motors so you dont lose any of that.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Motors are often (deceptively) rated by *peak* power output, which basically means run the motor up to full speed, then lock the rotor, and measure how much power it transmits for the millisecond or two it takes to grind to a stop. In other words, a completely useless number. Ever see the Shop Vacs that advertise "6.5HP", yet operate off a 120V/15A outlet? The nameplate rating, voltage and current, gives a better indication of the continuous load capability. So, 90V/4.5A suggests it's really a little more than a 1/2HP motor in the real world.

Regards,
Ray L.

[ihavenofish]

Motors are often (deceptively) rated by *peak* power output, which basically means run the motor up to full speed, then lock the rotor, and measure how much power it transmits for the millisecond or two it takes to grind to a stop. In other words, a completely useless number. Ever see the Shop Vacs that advertise "6.5HP", yet operate off a 120V/15A outlet? The nameplate rating, voltage and current, gives a better indication of the continuous load capability. So, 90V/4.5A suggests it's really a little more than a 1/2HP motor in the real world.

Regards,
Ray L.

this is probably very true. my kx3 for example says it has 500w. the name plate says 220v 2.8 amps, for 616 watts. sounds convincing... but in reality its not. ill often take a cut that my cutting calculator says uses 300w, only to have it stall on me. i assume the calculator cant be *that* wrong, hehe. it may not even be the motors fault, the driver might be the limiting factor.

in any case, a low speed brushed motor seems to be a target for replacement on a good cnc conversion anyhow.

[photomankc]

I guess I need to just take to cutting rated HP by 50% or so. Like the laughable 4/5 HP rating on the X2.

[wisp]

wisp, I'm looking for rear mounted Y axis, belt drive on all axis (this allows people to run servos easily), x axis doesn't matter which side to me.

How about front mounted Y as standard (no mill mods), and rear mounted as an option (mods required)? We could also make direct drive standard, (good for steppers) and belt drive optional. Belt drive does add some cost though. I personally do not like the "stilt" type belt drive mounts, they look too flimsy/cheap. Fusion belt drive mounts will likely be machined from billet aluminum for strength and aesthetic appeal. (no one wants to pay for a kit that looks like bits picked up from Home Depot)

My neighbor and son managed to get the G0704 loaded onto the stand. It looks great. I will put up some photos of the stand with the mill on it. The stand is pretty nice, with a flip/twist lock on the door, and a shelf inside.

I did notice one thing about the stand I didn't like. The user manual says to use rubber machine leveling pads if you don't want to bolt the stand to the floor. Well I have some rubber leveling pads, and tried fitting them to the stand, but it was immediately apparent the slots in the stand for the pads are way too close together, which would make the stand more prone to tipping forward/backward. I will try to get some photos illustrating this online.

it looks like a few people are planning on offering conversion kits and/or plans, so do your best to maximize travels (properly supported of course) and if you can get the kit out in a timely manner with the quality of your previous kits, I'll be looking to buy as soon as my mill arrives.

I don't think it will take us too long to have a mill kit available. We already stock the major required components, and are set up to machine them in quantity. People don't realize how long it takes getting quotes, negotiating terms, placing blanket orders, stocking up on required components etc... to offer a kit. And how expensive it gets when you have to pay retail! I wish we could offer kits at a lower price, but your stuck when can't get everything on eBay.

My personal opinion on the best method of increasing travel... Linear guide retrofit. Mainly because you can increase travel without over extending the dovetail ways. Plus all the benefits of linear bearings. The downside is cost. But that's just my opinion.

Anyone think it possible to fit a gas spring inside the column to counter weigh the spindle? I don't know yet if its possible, but it sure would make for a clean install...

cheers,
Micha

[ihavenofish]

Anyone think it possible to fit a gas spring inside the column to counter weigh the spindle? I don't know yet if its possible, but it sure would make for a clean install...

cheers,
Micha

you probably can fit it, but it would be very inconvenient to access i think. the most ideal place for it is 2 springs mounted to the top on each side of the z saddle methinks.

[arizonavideo]

I think the 6 7/8" Y travel is a nice size for this size of machine It means you can work a 6" piece of stock.

If you need 8" of Y I would get the next size larger machine.

I just looked at my WEISS 30 and the ways look totally smooth except from one angel then you can see the dovetaill cutter marks. If I run my finger across them they feel vary smooth but if I drag my finger nail straight down it will fit into the cutter marks and chatter across the top.

In the picture of the ways they look rougher than the WEISS mill.


The table moves with almost no force. It is smoother than my IH mill table.

[cncJerry]

Hey, how the hell did you guys jump to the front of the line? I ordered mine a few weeks ago and called them the other day. I was told Feb 26th for shipment at order, then March 24th and now June. What gives? Are they actually checking the status of my machine, I wonder, or maybe just quoting the current expected ship dates?

Until I read your posts today I was ready to cancel but if they are getting them shipped maybe I will wait.

Maybe someone gave shipping an enema???

[cncJerry]

Hey, how the hell did you guys jump to the front of the line? I ordered mine a few weeks ago and called them the other day. I was told Feb 26th for shipment at order, then March 24th and now June. What gives? Are they actually checking the status of my machine, I wonder, or maybe just quoting the current expected ship dates?

Until I read your posts today I was ready to cancel but if they are getting them shipped maybe I will wait.

Maybe someone gave shipping an enema???

[hoss2006]

Hey, how the hell did you guys jump to the front of the line? I ordered mine a few weeks ago and called them the other day. I was told Feb 26th for shipment at order, then March 24th and now June. What gives? Are they actually checking the status of my machine, I wonder, or maybe just quoting the current expected ship dates?

Until I read your posts today I was ready to cancel but if they are getting them shipped maybe I will wait.

Maybe someone gave shipping an enema???

I don't think our friends at grizzly quite have it together in the shipping dept.
I asked them in Jan. after waiting a few weeks, if they could tell me how far down on the shipping list I was. (ordered Jan 5 told Feb 15 ship)
The girl told me there was no way to determine that.
Come on, computers are pretty good at keeping track of things.
Figured they were just snowing me to keep the info private.
Seems now that the people running the computers are the problem.
First come, first served. If they can't figure that out they need to get their act together.
I'd be on the horn with them if someone that ordered weeks after me was getting their mill first.
Hoss

[madbee]

I've been on the phone a few times with Grizzly and every time I call, I get a latter ETA (I think I'll just stop calling). It's like they are just adding x days to today's date. They explained a few thing that might make sense??? They said they ship out of different parts of the country and mine is supposed to ship out of PA. [BTW Hoss, thanks for letting me know where yours shipped from.] They also told me that they actually have some stock of G0704 in PA that is being held until it gets through the inspection dept. They told me they have no estimate on how long this takes...especially since this is a new item for them. I thought I read somewhere that Grizzly has an office in China where they inspect things first...who knows. It is nice to know that they do inspect these before sending them out.

[wisp]

Hey, how the hell did you guys jump to the front of the line?

Hi Jerry, we placed the order on Jan 6th. I believe the mill shipped from PA. Perhaps the bad weather has effected shipping?

I managed to get one of the end bearing plates off the table, which was a pain because the thrust bearing was stuck on the lead screw. After much patient tapping, it came off. The end plates are also held in place with taper pins. The pins can be extracted using a 4mm screw, and some washers.

After removing the end plate I moved the table to the far end of travel so I could see the saddle ways. The saddle ways are indeed hand scraped.

I was also able to measure the clearance between the underside of the table, and the saddle. There is exactly 3/4" gap under the table.

Cheers,
Michael

[mattbesquare]

My personal opinion on the best method of increasing travel... Linear guide retrofit. Mainly because you can increase travel without over extending the dovetail ways. Plus all the benefits of linear bearings. The downside is cost. But that's just my opinion.

do you mean by cutting the dove tales off? What line of linears would you recomend? I was considering this, but wasn sure about slop...