[KT6G Radio]

Hi everyone,

I must start by saying how amazed I am by everyone's work on CNCzone. It's true tool porn for me and I love it!!:banana:

I started this router a couple of years back and just lost interest due to time, then money. Now I have lots of time, but no money

I have loosely translated a wooden based router frame into this steel and aluminum build.

I hope to make this machine rigid enough to cute non-ferrous metals, brass, aluminum, etc.

My first question, I have a cabinet style wood saw that has a carbide blade. I have heard or read somewhere that aluminum can be cut with a table saw and carbide blade. The material is only 1/2" thick, but 12" wide and 60" long. Has anyone ever done this and what sort of noise or what can I expect when the aluminum hits the blade?

Second, I am seriously thinking of adding a second rail to the x axis, as one does not look like it will be enough. Should I do this and what is the easy way I can approach this?

Third I have 3 Gecko g203v drives, a cnc4pc C11 BOB, Keling kl-7212 power supply, and 3 Keling kl 34h260-42-8a stepper motors. I think the motors are a little on the weak side and may upgrade these. What do you think? Also, what other electronics might be useful in this build?

Fourth, is there such a thing as a 1" r-8 collet? Need it for my Brigeport mill, as I have several bits with 1" shanks.

More questions are will be forthcoming and I will post pics as the build is progressing, both for ideas and maybe help someone out in turn.

Thanks, Paul "KT6G Radio".

[CarveOne]

Fourth, is there such a thing as a 1" r-8 collet? Need it for my Brigeport mill, as I have several bits with 1" shanks.

Thanks, Paul "KT6G Radio".

R8 collets only go to 7/8" (that I know) of due to the physical restrictions of the R8 form factor. Larger than that requires an end mill holder. One like this will take up a lot of your headroom if using an R8 mini-mill. The part that sticks out of the spindle is 3" or more long. These are available up to 1-1/2". They are more likely to be less precise than a collet and more prone to vibrations at high spindle speeds.

CarveOne

[KT6G Radio]

Hi All,

I have three g203v gecko drives and three stepper motors from Kelling Tech (KL34H260-42-8A). I also have the CNC4PC breakout board C11 Multi-function board. I am thinking of using two motors to drive the x-axis (2 roton ball screws drive the x-axis) and was wondering if the BOB would work for this.

I know I need another gecko drive and motor, but was wondering how I can drive the two x-axis motors in sync or if this is problem. I also have the KL-7212 (Unregulated Power Supply 864W, 72VDC/12A, Single Rectifier Module,120VAC or 230VAC) and was hoping that this is enough power to drive four motors.
Also should I power the BOB and other low voltage electronics with a separate power supply (5v-12v)?

The router is an all metal/aluminum and I will use a Chinese Spindle. I want to be able to cut soft metals (aluminum, brass, copper, etc.) and wood of course.

What other electronics, besides a PC will I need? E-Stop, home and limit switches, etc. If someone has a list of the needed electronics, plus nice or neat stuff to add to the system for smoother or better operation, I am highly interested in any help. Also I have Mach 3, but what other software do I need? I don’t understand the difference or what I need to consider.

Of course my budget is limited, so I need to make some smart informed choices, thanks for your help.

Paul

[RomanLini]

Hi KT6G, cool project!

As for the other electronics items, you may want a spindle on/off controller. Your Chinese spindle may come with a control input so your PC can turn it on/off as needed, or otherwise it might require a power controller to turn the power on/off to the spindle drive box (VFD etc).

A z-axis tool setter might be good to consider also, it's easier to run wires and think about where it is all going before the machine gets finalised.

Have you tried cutting the alloy with your table saw and carbide blade yet? I've done it with a circular drop-saw no problems, with a squirt of WD40. For thicker pieces of alloy I cut on a bandsaw with a 6 TPI wood blade, alloy is a similar hardness to hardwood and that cuts it fine although not quickly.

As for suggestions on the design, I would think about specialising the design a little in that if you specifically aiming for cutting metals then make the machine a bit slower (choice of leadscrews/gearing) and much less Z travel and lower gantry height to improve rigidity. Looks like you already chose acme threads and supported rails so that seems a good choice for lower speeds and rigidity.

It would be nice to see a design or some picture, dimensions of the whole frame+gantry etc, if people can see your design they might offer suggestions along the way.