[BrassBuilder]

I need some more wiring assistance.

I am bench wiring my Compumotor OEM750 drives to a C10 breakout board. I had this thread started on the drives:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98406

Here are both manuals for the 750 and C10:
http://www.compumotor.com/manuals/OE...tire_Rev_B.pdf
http://www.kelinginc.net/c10.pdf

My question:

If I am reading everything correctly, I hook the wires from 2, COM, 3 on the breakout board to pins 1, 14 & 15, 2 on the 750, right? (BOB-2 to 750-1, BOB-COM to 750-14 & 15, and BOB-3 to 750-2). The wiring diagram I am looking at is on page 19 on the 750 manual. I then repeat this for the other motor using 4, COM, 5 on the BOB to 1, 14 & 15, 2 on the other 750.

I really, really, do not want to screw this up....

I have the resistor installed on the 750s to match my motors and I currently have everything hooked up in TEST mode. I know it all works in test. I want to make sure it all works for real now.

edit:
I went ahead and hooked these up as above as I found another wiring diagram that appeared to have these hooked up the same way. Everything comes on, but the motors won't turn. I input G-code in Mach3 and nothing happens. I checked the ports and I have them set up the same as my mill....

Thanks

Mike

[derekj308]

Hi Mike

Given all else is correct there are two things that come to mind as a possible source of your problem.

1. You are still in test mode. I think this is unlikely as I would expect the motors would turn back and forth but maybe when the inputs are wired the test mode acts weird. Its a possibility but highly unlikey.

2. The jumper setting on your BOB that sets ground to be 5V or 0V. I think this is the most likely problem. Check out the link below and look at the 4th picture from the top in the group of 5 pictures. You should be set at 0V for ground.

http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/prod...products_id=47

In my manual the pg that describes the hookup is pg13, I have attached it for reference for others. From what you have written it looks like your input wiring is fine. Do a double check in Mach that your step and direction pins are mapped correctly just in case.


Cheers

[BrassBuilder]

Derek,

I double checked the jumper for ground and it is on pins 1-2 for GND. 2-3 will set it for 5V.

I'm thinking this is a Mach3 problem. I might delete Mach 3 and reinstall it. I went through one of the video tutorials and I don't remember a certain box coming up about running Mach3 in test mode or real mode.

Shouldn't there be a driver that loaded when I loaded Mach3? I don't remember that happening. Although...the X-axis will count up and down when I hold the arrow keys down.

I double checked the printer port in BIOS too....it is enabled. I also change it to ECP (I think that is what it was called....it was not EPP). It was on EPP/ECP. My other computer is set on ECP only.

After looking at your diagram....I am sure I have them hooked up correctly. I took leads 14 and 15 and tied them together and then ran them to GND on the BOB between ports 2 and 3.

One thing that I just thought of....I think there is a jumper for setting ports 2-9 to either Input or Output. Should these be Output? (Sending signal to the drivers?). They are set as output.

If you think of anything else....let me know. I need to do some running for the next hour or so.

Thanks
Mike

[derekj308]

Hi Mike

Try running the file

DriverTest.exe

in the Mach3 directory. If you have installed Mach3 correctly this should work and be able to hold a stable output frequency. Otherwise we can systematically go through your setup in Mach3.

Yes pins 2-9 should be set as output. About the parallel port setting I'm not real sure. Do a search through the 'zone and see what others have done.

Cheers

[BrassBuilder]

Hi Mike

Try running the file

DriverTest.exe

in the Mach3 directory. If you have installed Mach3 correctly this should work and be able to hold a stable output frequency. Otherwise we can systematically go through your setup in Mach3.

Yes pins 2-9 should be set as output. About the parallel port setting I'm not real sure. Do a search through the 'zone and see what others have done.

Cheers

Ran the DriverTest last night. It came back as good.

I reinstalled Mach3 and redid the pin port. Still nothing...

One thing I got to wondering about....I am using something like 16 or 18 guage wire. Is the wire too heavy and drawing too much of the current off? I noticed on my mill, I used a lot lighter wire.

I was going to pull the cover off the 750 and double check the switches too.

Went through Mach3 videos and I got everything set up where the motor should at least turn.

Mike

[derekj308]

Hi Mike

Take some screen shots of Mach3 set up and some photos of your BOB wiring. If you have a multimeter it would help with troubleshooting. I am assuming by C10 BOB in the heading that you have the bi-directional BOB from CNC4PC. Did you tie the enable to +5V DC? If you are running a safety charge pump and using it to power the enable line that may be your issue. If so by pass it for testing. If you can get the direction pins to toggle from 0V to 5V you know you are getting a signal through your BOB but you need a multimeter to check.

Use process of elimination by verifying known outcomes at progressive points along your circuit. Check your outputs at your parallel port directly out of the PC. If you can see a change in state for one of the direction pins then move to the BOB end of the parallel cable. Then the BOB. Then at the end of the cables to the drive. You have already successfully tested in the drive in test mode so you know they are working.

Don't get disheartened. We've all been there. The high you get when it does run is pretty cool. Keep on swimming.

Here's a photo of my setup. Its progressed a lot since I took this photo but it shows the layout.

Cheers

[BrassBuilder]

Hi Mike

Take some screen shots of Mach3 set up and some photos of your BOB wiring. If you have a multimeter it would help with troubleshooting. I am assuming by C10 BOB in the heading that you have the bi-directional BOB from CNC4PC. Did you tie the enable to +5V DC? If you are running a safety charge pump and using it to power the enable line that may be your issue. If so by pass it for testing. If you can get the direction pins to toggle from 0V to 5V you know you are getting a signal through your BOB but you need a multimeter to check.

Use process of elimination by verifying known outcomes at progressive points along your circuit. Check your outputs at your parallel port directly out of the PC. If you can see a change in state for one of the direction pins then move to the BOB end of the parallel cable. Then the BOB. Then at the end of the cables to the drive. You have already successfully tested in the drive in test mode so you know they are working.

Don't get disheartened. We've all been there. The high you get when it does run is pretty cool. Keep on swimming.

Here's a photo of my setup. Its progressed a lot since I took this photo but it shows the layout.

Cheers

Hi Derek,
Yes, that is the C10....mine came from Keling, but I think the CNC4PC is the same one.

What pin to what pin should I check on the parallel cable? I have a multimeter here....I am just not sure where I need to check. From the printout I have here, it appears that 18-25 are ground.

After I verify that I have voltage where it needs to be, I may try re-wiring this. I used around 16-18 gauge automotive wiring to temp wire this together. I noticed when I first powered it up, the LED on the BOB would flicker on and off. I checked the voltage at the end of the 5V adapter going into the BOB and it was only around 1V (instead of 5V). I took my extension wires off (the same wire I used on the rest of the wiring) and I ended up getting my 5V back.

Is the wire draining all my current before it gets where it needs to go?

On my mill, I used speaker wire to run from the BOB over to the drivers. That is probably shielded wire too.

I haven't given up yet....I had this same problem when I built the mill....but that ended up being a Mach3 operator error (me). And I still remember I almost peed my pants in excitement when I got it running.

I just need to get to that point again.

Your setup looks great!

Mike

[BrassBuilder]

UPDATE!!!!!!!

Did you tie the enable to +5V DC?

Guess what I didn't do? (chair)

Guess what now works? :banana:

I knew it was going to be something simple that I forgot. I looked on my mill to make sure that is what you were talking about and I see this little tiny jumper wire going from EN to +5V.

If you were closer, the steaks would be on me, but I guess this is the best I can do for now:

:cheers:

While I am thinking of it...don't I need to adjust a setting somewhere that sets Mach3 for how many steps or something it takes to make one complete revolution for the motor? I saw something like that mentioned, but I cannot remember what it was.

Now to hook up the other one....and then I can start modifying my lathe for CNC! :banana:

Thanks again!

Mike

[LZ1TWB]

Hello

Go to Config/Motor tuning. You then set the steps per mm/inch value. For example my system has 1024 pulse encoder which gives 4096 pulses per revolution for a 4x quadrature. Having a 10mm/round screw this ends in 409.6steps per mm.

You just have to calculate your numbers out there.

Todor

[BrassBuilder]

Hello

Go to Config/Motor tuning. You then set the steps per mm/inch value. For example my system has 1024 pulse encoder which gives 4096 pulses per revolution for a 4x quadrature. Having a 10mm/round screw this ends in 409.6steps per mm.

You just have to calculate your numbers out there.

Todor

Thanks! I remember reading about that now.
Mike