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  1. #1
    Shawn_M
    Guest

    Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    Hi everyone,

    New to the forum and new to CNC. I recently bought a used HY-6040 5 axis CNC mill with a 2.2kw water cooled spindle off Craigslist here in Clearwater. Complete with PC and Mach3. It's fairly new, about 5 hours on it with the 4th and 5th axis never used. I won't use it either and will post it on eBay or in here for sale.

    The machine works with Mach3 and functions very well as is. I plan on using it regularly for cutting carbon fiber and thin (up to .1875) aluminum. So I want to upgrade all the electronics now rather than later when I'm using it all the time.

    My plan is a G540 and some 381 oz/in, 3.5A steppers from Automation Technology. The KL23H2100-35-4A model with .9° /400 steps per rev. A bit more accuracy as stated on the page. These motors I want to use have a fairly low inductance of 2.8. I've read the 6040 machines have high inductance motors on them and of course the rest of the electronics and not the best. Automation Tech also has a 48v 7.3 amp power supply that seems to fit the bill form all the reading and calculations I've done over the past week. A better choice than the one currently in the machine.

    The machine currently has 282 oz motors on it according to the specs but there are no stickers on the motors so it's impossible to say exactly what they are. I'm looking for a bit more power, accuracy and reliability with the new setup. The z axis is very heavy with the 2.2 kw spindle. It has all 1605 ball screws and limit switches on each end of all 3 axis.

    I also plan on replacing all the wiring with shielded wire and grounding everything. This machine does not even have the earth ground being used from the A/C line coming in. Go figure.

    I've read many great posts about the G540 and think it's the best route for me and my parallel port mach3 pc that came with it. I want to start this out right and not have to upgrade later. I also plan on building a larger machine in the future and can use this machine to make the parts.

    Looking for any suggestions or input as to my new setup choices.

    Also looking forward to this new adventure.

    Thanks,
    Shawn
    Clearwater, Fl

  2. #2
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    8

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    Well, I picked up a HY-6040 used here in Miami.

    A couple of things which I noticed;
    1) Earth ground not connected, just as Shawn_M reported above.
    2) Y travel is limited by the column, which the tray comes in contact with, 1.5 inches before the limit switch. (Very bad) Y total travel could be 18-15/16, but is limited to 16-1/4. Boom needs to be longer to use the full travel of Y.
    3) X travel is 24-5/8, but bits can contact the tray on the right side, before the limit switch is reached. Needs larger tray, or relocated limit switch.
    4) Spindle mount bolts are M4, spindle mounts poorly with the M4 cap screws not fitting the spindle mount correctly. Plan to change these to M6 cap screws.
    5) Column mounts with four M4 cap screws, the column is not in line with the base plate.

    My plans; Rebuild the machine,
    Correct the mis-alignment of the column.
    Upgrade the M4 cap screw to M6 on column and spindle mount points.
    Convert to USB, by installing Pokeys57cnc controller and five M542T drivers.
    Relocate VFD to allow M542T's to be mounted in the boom.
    Lengthen the boom to get correct Y travel. (About 2 inches longer)
    Built new tray with t-slot table, 20" X 26".

  3. #3
    Shawn_M
    Guest

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    Hi MiamiJerry,

    I'm about 3/4 of the way through my rebuild. It's been an adventure to say the least. I've taken it completely apart except for the x and y sled (for the lack of a better word). I completely removed every electrical wire that it came with and tossed them in the trash. Useless !!! Also, the limit/home switches are N/O so those went into the trash as well. I bought a 10 pack of N/C limit/home switches to replace the old ones with. Safer and less chance of a phantom trigger. Plus if you ever break a wire you'll know it before it's too late.

    Funny what you mention about the Y axis. My tray also will come into contact with the column BUT the bearing block of the right side of the Y axis is about 2" longer than the left side. This allows it to hit the limit switch with about 1/8" to spare before the tray come into contact with the column. Maybe this is a newer feature that they figured out it needed. And the X axis does travel to the outermost edges of the tray. I am also going to make it wider just as you are with some extrusion. I am not going to make the boom any longer because it already has a little "wiggle" and making the arm longer will only exaggerate this more. The Z axis and the 2.2 kw spindle have a lot of weight to them and it only increases as you make the arm longer. I'm fine with the Y travel. I mainly bought this machine so I could use it to make the parts for the 4x4 machine I want to build. And this machine will be for learning on as well. I plan to sell it in the future after my larger machine is complete.

    I machined an opening in the right side where the old BOB was to fit the G540. I also bought a 48 volt power supply that fits inside the column. I purchased a Pentium II heatsink with a fan and mounted it to the back of the G540 for cooling. I'm also adding in two 110v fans for air FLOW. One at the bottom just above the Y axis motor to draw in cool air and the other will be at the top sucking air out. I'm using the old motor GX16 connectors for my limit switches and one for the auto zero probe that I'm adding. I have all new shielded wire on everything and the new motors are here also. I added in a buss bar for all the grounds and shields to go to. I also added an e-stop in the right side of the boom since it didn't come with one. I had to move the VFD towards the front so I could get the e-stop switch in towards the back behind the VFD controller that's flushed in the side of the boom.

    Also, the cable chain that came with the machine is too small for the new shielded motor cable and the shielded limit/home switch cable together. I ordered the next size larger to fit both new cables. A 1M piece on eBay was $9 from a US warehouse for a China based seller. I'm also moving it out further from its OEM location so I'm adding in an aluminum track to support it.

    My machine is 110v, is yours? I sort of like this as I dont have to add a 220 outlet anywhere to run it.

    I'll post some more pics when I can to show you my progress. Hope you'll do the same. Here's a pic of the back while I was taking it apart. Actually in this photo you can see the bearing block on Y axis that is longer to trip the limit/home switch.

    Shawn
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails back of HY-6040 (Small).jpg   back of HY-6040 (Medium).jpg  

  4. #4
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    8

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Shawn_M View Post
    Hi MiamiJerry,

    I'm about 3/4 of the way through my rebuild. It's been an adventure to say the least. I've taken it completely apart except for the x and y sled (for the lack of a better word). I completely removed every electrical wire that it came with and tossed them in the trash. Useless !!! Also, the limit/home switches are N/O so those went into the trash as well. I bought a 10 pack of N/C limit/home switches to replace the old ones with. Safer and less chance of a phantom trigger. Plus if you ever break a wire you'll know it before it's too late.

    Funny what you mention about the Y axis. My tray also will come into contact with the column BUT the bearing block of the right side of the Y axis is about 2" longer than the left side. This allows it to hit the limit switch with about 1/8" to spare before the tray come into contact with the column. Maybe this is a newer feature that they figured out it needed. And the X axis does travel to the outermost edges of the tray. I am also going to make it wider just as you are with some extrusion. I am not going to make the boom any longer because it already has a little "wiggle" and making the arm longer will only exaggerate this more. The Z axis and the 2.2 kw spindle have a lot of weight to them and it only increases as you make the arm longer. I'm fine with the Y travel. I mainly bought this machine so I could use it to make the parts for the 4x4 machine I want to build. And this machine will be for learning on as well. I plan to sell it in the future after my larger machine is complete.

    I machined an opening in the right side where the old BOB was to fit the G540. I also bought a 48 volt power supply that fits inside the column. I purchased a Pentium II heatsink with a fan and mounted it to the back of the G540 for cooling. I'm also adding in two 110v fans for air FLOW. One at the bottom just above the Y axis motor to draw in cool air and the other will be at the top sucking air out. I'm using the old motor GX16 connectors for my limit switches and one for the auto zero probe that I'm adding. I have all new shielded wire on everything and the new motors are here also. I added in a buss bar for all the grounds and shields to go to. I also added an e-stop in the right side of the boom since it didn't come with one. I had to move the VFD towards the front so I could get the e-stop switch in towards the back behind the VFD controller that's flushed in the side of the boom.

    Also, the cable chain that came with the machine is too small for the new shielded motor cable and the shielded limit/home switch cable together. I ordered the next size larger to fit both new cables. A 1M piece on eBay was $9 from a US warehouse for a China based seller. I'm also moving it out further from its OEM location so I'm adding in an aluminum track to support it.

    My machine is 110v, is yours? I sort of like this as I dont have to add a 220 outlet anywhere to run it.

    I'll post some more pics when I can to show you my progress. Hope you'll do the same. Here's a pic of the back while I was taking it apart. Actually in this photo you can see the bearing block on Y axis that is longer to trip the limit/home switch.

    Shawn
    My machine is 220v, with the 2.2k spindle, I figured that I needed the larger current. I made a cord to use the 30a dryer outlet.

    Thanks for the heads up on the limit switches.

    Please comment more on the column / boom wiggle ?? This is a big concern for me.
    Did you know that the HY-6040-DYI has a wider column ??
    I am also adding a 3/8 x 5 (?) x 24 gusset to the column on the left side, this is where the VFD will mount.

    I intent to use the full 18 x 24 capacity of the tray, so the longer Y axis boom is a requirement for me.

    Mine does not have the longer bearing block, and the limit switch is on the left side of the Y axis.

  5. #5
    Shawn_M
    Guest

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    Well you certainly wont need 30 amps for a 2.2 kw spindle and the motor power supply but you'll have a reserve for sure. I will have enough power even at 110. Either one will work. Where I plan to put this machine once I'm finished with the rebuild has no 220 line so the 110 is perfect for me.

    Yes, I've seen the wider column version of the HY-6040. I've read a few posts where the operator of a HY-6040 stated that the z axis had a little wiggle to it while cutting aluminum because of the cantilever design of the arm itself. A gusset will certainly help with that and something I was considering as well but I want to see if it's needed after I get it running again. I plan on cutting plastic, carbon fiber and thin aluminum with mine. I can make my own gussets after I get the machine running. If not I have access to a water juet for parts as well.

    I'm also adding in a 110v outlet and power light for the water pump to the left side of the column. I'm wiring the water pump through the built in relay in the VFD so that anytime the spindle is running so is the water pump. No need to use the Gecko and an external relay as one is built in to the VFD for this.

    I should end up with a full 16" x 24" of travel when complete.

  6. #6
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    8

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    I order the ME-8108 limit switches, they have dual contacts, which is cool.

    Both of the pumps I have are 220v, great idea to use the VFD to control the pump.

    Hopefully I can eliminate any wiggle, time will tell...

  7. #7
    Shawn_M
    Guest

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    The ME-8108 limit switches are very versatile but they are HUGE. Not sure why you need dual contacts either but maybe you have a plan. I simply ordered n/c closed replacements for what was already installed on the machine. I also added shielded wire to all the limit/home switches. The 8108's will work once you figure out how to mount them, just be sure to use the n/c side and wire each axis in series.

    Both pumps? Do you have one for the spindle and one for a coolant?

    Post pics of your gusset when you can. Once I have mine back together I'll see how it is before I design a gusset for the sides of the column.

  8. #8
    Registered
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    Feb 2018
    Posts
    8

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    I reached out to Hlopezho, who was the person who commented that the column wobbled when cutting aluminum. I am waiting on a reply.

    Mean while I am rethinking the design of the gusset, I may have to due some deflection tests first. (Dial indicator and a pry bar) Get some data on where the wobble can come in. For sure the column with only 4 m4 screw will be able to deflect forward. Wonder if the column can twist ??

    I intent to cut aluminum, so I will have to come up with a fix...

    OK, deflection test results,
    Horrible failure, deflects forward, aft, and twists both left and right. With a small pry bar 6", way over .030 with hand pressure.

    I believe the root problem is that the column is a u channel supported only on the forward side. I think the fix will need to secure all three sides of the u channel to the base.

  9. #9
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    Feb 2018
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    8

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    Discovered today why this HY-6040 failed a deflection test so badly.

    There is two M4 screws which are intended to be installed from the bottom plate up into the aft side of the column's left and right side.
    So there are 6 M4 screws which mount the column.

    Of coarse I noticed this only after manufacturing a brace for the left bottom of the column...

  10. #10
    Shawn_M
    Guest

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    Correct, I have a total of 8 M4 screws holding the column in. 4 from the bottom up and 4 on the inside on either side of the Y stepper motor bolting it to the Y axis. I do have plans to increase these to 10-32 or larger by simply through drilling the M4 out where it bolts to the Y axis and then drilling and tapping the 4 in the bottom.

    I also plan to add 80/20 gussets on either side of the column at the base as well. I'm adding 2 of the 30-4338 gussets from 8020. You can see them here: https://8020.net/shop/30-4338.html

    This should help and then I'll design and cut some gussets to support the Z axis arm a little better. Should make it pretty solid with all the improvements. After I get them bolted up I'll post some pics.

    On another note, I assume that you are going to swap out the OEM unshielded motor cables with some shielded 18/4 wire on the steppers. When you do you'll need to get a larger cable chain for the X axis motor wire and limit switch wire. My new wires for the stepper and limits/home switches does not fit in the OEM cable chain. I bought the next larger size on ebay for $9 to my door.

  11. #11
    Registered
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    Feb 2018
    Posts
    8

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    I have some shielded motor wire, but I was only intending to shield the wire inside the column, to protect from interference from the VFD.

    The left side of the column, which I added a brace to today, only had one hole tapped up into the bottom. There was two holes in the base plate.
    I do not like M4 screws threaded into the side of 10mm plate. M4 screws are too small in my opinion, and there is not alot to metal there to go oversize.

  12. #12
    Shawn_M
    Guest

    Re: Stepper / Driver configuration for a HY-6040 rebuild

    I would research noise a little more before you forego not shielding the entire cable. Or all the cables on the machine. Just food for thought. The wires is a really inexpensive insurance policy. I bought 25 feet of 18/4 shielded wire for all 3 steppers on eBay for $13 to my door. It's more than I needed but for $13, well worth it to keep noise out. It does not only come from the VFD. In fact I think I spent a total of just over $32 to buy all new shielded wire for everything. The steppers, the VFD and spindle and the limit/home switches. I wasn't leaving anything to chance for so little money.

    At least my machine had all the holes drilled and had bolts in them, albeit small M4 bolts but they were there. I'm thinking about #10-24 or #12-24 screws as a replacement. Whatever you decide use the most course bolts you can find. They are better for softer metals like aluminum. The OEM M4 screws are all fine thread. There is enough meat there, I think the countersink for the M4 bolts is causing you to see it as there is not enough room for a larger bolt. Just my opinion.

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