[Texasbowhunter]

LET me start out saying I'm not electrical Savey by no means and It flat out scares me...This was by far the biggest electrical wiring job I have ever done...I have finally gotten to the stage today of getting my machine running...I used the electrical schematic in the wiki exclusively in the wiring portion with the exception of a GRBL-Hal being used rather then a FlexiHal
All is operational
While setting the perimeters required on a 2.2kw 18,000 RPM G-Penny Spindle which there wasn't anything directly associated with this spindle, so I winged it following others on there 2.2 spindles...I ran into a concern...
PD003, 004, 005, and 072 all required me to put the motors Frequency into these perimeters...The information I was going off indicated 400 should be put into these areas...My spindle is 18,000 RPM not the 24,000 RPM and indicated from my motors name plate that it is 300 HZ and not the 400HZ, so I put in 300 in all those areas...Spindle is up and running , however, watching the display, the display indicated that the rpm was 18,000 which it should have been identified as, but, the HZ was 150 and not the 300, 1/2 of what we were expecting to see...Thoughts as to why and what can be addressed to get the HZ indicating the 300...
Could the line 1 and line 2 and neutral be the culprit where they come from the house to the switch to supply 220 v, Could I have the L1 and L2 switched?

While I'm asking for help...I followed the Manufactures wiring diagram to the "T" with the lead wires going into the spindle identified as 1, 2, 3, and the green being ground, then meticulously I wired the identified wire into the proper U, V, W, Ground terminals in both the VFD and the plug...The Spindle with all this careful paying attention to the numbers on the wires the Spindle RAN Backwards...WTF...I changed the U, V around and the direction was then correct...So after thinking about this and WHY, could it have been where the power leads from the house were backwards? another words the L1 and L2 reversed...
And PD143...Number of motor poles...OMG...I looked at the attachment link and over my grasp of comprehension...So in layman's terms and very easy to understand how does one find out how many poles one has? Anyhoo, I put 2 in here, and am questing that... we assumed that there was either 2 - 120v legs of power coming in or 3 legs of power from the 220V, but factory has 4 in this area...
Thanks...Paul
Hers the URL to what I bought and in one of the images shows the wiring diagram they asked us to follow from the spindle to the VFD
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...-specification
In another documentation a buddy of mine supplied showed all the parameters I was supposed to change...

[joeavaerage]

Hi,

.So after thinking about this and WHY, could it have been where the power leads from the house were backwards? another words the L1 and L2 reversed...

No. The first thing that happens when AC input is supplied to a VFD is it is rectified and smoothed to DC. The VFD uses PWM (to modulate the DC) to make a three phase output voltage of the correct frequency.
It matters not how L₁ and L₂ are hooked up, they still generate the DC voltage.

Who cares which way the spindle spins?. If it going the wrong way just reveres any two of the three phase outputs and your done. My Delta VFD's allow you to change direction programmatically as well if you want.

Post the manual for the VFD. Every manufacturer uses different parameter numbers and different terminology....the right manual is essential.

Refering again to my Delta VFDs I can have the display show current, or voltage, or commanded frequency or actual frequency or commanded rpm or actual rpm or temperature and any number of others....all selectable by parameter.
I would presume your VFD is similar, that is to say it could display a wide range of variables.......and you should know, you set the parameter.

Does it matter what it displays? After an hour or two of use you know damn well by the sound alone whether the spindle is up to speed. Most VFDs ar in a cabinet somewhere and the only time they ever get looked at is if something goes wrong.

Craig

[Texasbowhunter]

So, I realized I may have to much in the original topic and feel that I should condense it with the actual concern I have
I have programed all the parameters the best I can using others numbers to get me real close and feel comfortable with those numbers in the various parameters...
My G-Penny 2.2kw is running 18K RPM per the MFG tag plate on motor and is displaying this on my VFD wide open
My Frequency is 300 so I applied these settings in my parameters PD003, 004, 005, 072
What I'm getting as far as the Frequency/Amp reading on the VFD is 150 not the 300 I should be getting...
Now there is a discrepancy somewhere because the Amp stamped on my motor label indicates 10A where the documentation I have seen on the vendors site shows 8.5A...I have keep it at 10A since its on my motor label...Should I change the 10 to 8.5 and if so will this adjust the Hz displayed at 18K RPM?
PD141= 220V MOTOR RATED VOLTAGE
PD142= 10 MOTORS RATER CURRENT
PD143= 2 NUMBER OF MOTOR POLES
PD144= 3000 MOTOR SPEED AT 50HZ (getting these wrong displays the wrong RPM on the VFD) So is this where I need to reconsider the 3000, assuming here in the US we have a 50hz system but as I may have stated most all this is GREEK to me...
So, in a nutshell what I have is 150Hz displayed not the 300Hz and the displayed 18K RPM assuming I have 18K RPM...to me it sounds like it is humming fast
Paul

[joeavaerage]

Hi,
you have still not posted the manual. How is anyone supposed to know whether you've overlooked something if we cant see the manual?

The single most important programming is the V/F curve. If you get that right the motor runs correctly, including voltage and current. Get it wrong and at various
places throughout the range the current and voltage will be well wrong with potential reliability problems for the spindle or VFD or both.

Can you 'plot' from the parameters you have entered a continuous line describing the applied voltage at frequencies from 0Hz, or near to 0Hz up to your max of 300Hz?
Once you can do so then you have correctly programmed the V/F curve, if you don't know what I'm talking about, then in all probability you have not.

Craig

[Texasbowhunter]

My apology's I did not recall needing to post manual, non the less I just happened to have one on file...However I do Not Have one for the Spindle, I have reached out to the Vendor with the hopes of getting one and to confirm what exactly my Amps are 8.5 or 10...
"Can you 'plot' from the parameters you have entered a continuous line describing the applied voltage at frequencies from 0Hz, or near to 0Hz up to your max of 300Hz?" No not to 300 but to 150 I might be able to figure something out...
The file that I have is to large to be downloaded to lets try this...Hope fully it works
https://www.nvcnc.net/wp-content/upl...VFD-Manual.pdf
Thanks
Paul

[joeavaerage]

Hi,
the critical parameters that set the V to F curve are shown.

A simple V to F curve is just a straight line such as I have shown. Many people forget the intermediate frequency and consequently cause themselves problems by not placing
the point on the required curve.

The last pic is of the V to F curve I've programmed my Delta VFD for my new Dake spindle. It is somewhat more complicated, but the general idea is the same. Note that its a 400V spindle and 4 pole,
so at 1333Hz its doing 40,000rpm. the Base frequency here is where the voltage is max, ie 700Hz or 21,000rpm. The rated speed is 10,000rpm or 333Hz. This would be called the intermediate frequency
in your terminology. Note also that I have programmed a minimum speed of 2000rpm or 66Hz, and have chosen 38V at that frequency as being 'on the curve'.

Craig

[Texasbowhunter]

Craig,
Thank You for all your time, you have been seemingly very patient...The Vendor had gotten a resolution for me in which they requested me to reprogram the VFD
You need set up the inverter by this way:
Pd013=8 (reset up the inverter)
Pd005=300
Pd004=300
Pd003=300
Pd072=300(Must do it step by step)

Knob working: Pd002=1; Pd070=1
After doing this I turned the power off then reapplied power to continue my programing...
IT now shows the correct 300Hz which I was not seeing, however after reprograming and getting a bit more familiar with programing and a little understanding of the various perimeters...
You conversation on plotting the curve and setting up the curve got my curiosity going...I would like to learn more on this...You familiar with any videos that would help with this or
What would you suggest I do to plot out and curve to see where I'm at?
Paul

[joeavaerage]

Hi,

You familiar with any videos that would help with this or
What would you suggest I do to plot out and curve to see where I'm at?

No, I know of no videos about it, but there must be some. I learned this stuff in University forty years ago....its not rocket science.

Speed control of an induction motor is pretty mature. Your spindle is just a three phase induction motor, also called an asynchronous motor.
The essential idea is that if you apply a low frequency to the windings of an induction motor the voltage needs be reduced otherwise a huge excess of current would flow,
wrecking the motor and/or VFD. The simplest voltage control is linear with frequency.

I find that if I interpret the VFD parameters correctly I can plot the V/F curve. If it is approximately linear as I've shown above then you are fine. If however you have misinterpreted the parameters
you might find that the VFD will attempt to apply full voltage at some part frequency, say 50Hz. That would be fine for a regular (50Hz or 60Hz) induction motor but your spindle (300Hz) is expecting full voltage at the
base frequency, in your case 300Hz. Thus to apply full voltage at 50Hz would be to drive six times the current through the windings and likely destroy the spindle or VFD or both.

Craig