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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Tormach Personal CNC Mill > What driver do I need to remove the chip pan on a Tormach 1100?
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  1. #1
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    Oct 2021
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    What driver do I need to remove the chip pan on a Tormach 1100?

    Picking am picking up a Tormach 1100 that is on the deluxe stand.

    I think I will need to pull the chip pan off to facilitate strapping it down. I won't have too much time to prep, so I am wondering what I need to remove it?

    https://tormach.com/media/asset/t/d/...16a_web_1_.pdf

    Install manual says M6x10mm. Are these socket head cap screws? Should be a 5mm driver.

    There are also a few M6x10mm screws with nuts.

    I'll have a utility knife to cut any sealant. Anything else I will need?

  2. #2
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    Jun 2005
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    577

    Re: What driver do I need to remove the chip pan on a Tormach 1100?

    Quote Originally Posted by newtonsapple View Post
    Picking am picking up a Tormach 1100 that is on the deluxe stand.

    I think I will need to pull the chip pan off to facilitate strapping it down. I won't have too much time to prep, so I am wondering what I need to remove it?

    https://tormach.com/media/asset/t/d/...16a_web_1_.pdf

    Install manual says M6x10mm. Are these socket head cap screws? Should be a 5mm driver.

    There are also a few M6x10mm screws with nuts.

    I'll have a utility knife to cut any sealant. Anything else I will need?
    My early chip pan was held on with flanged hex head screws (not socket heads). I'd bring a set of metric sockets along too.

  3. #3
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    Join Date
    Oct 2021
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    3

    Re: What driver do I need to remove the chip pan on a Tormach 1100?

    Quote Originally Posted by shred View Post
    My early chip pan was held on with flanged hex head screws (not socket heads). I'd bring a set of metric sockets along too.
    The machine I got did turn out to be flanged hex head bolts that were covered in silicone. I have to cut away the silicone to get them out. They take a 10mm socket. There are also a few screws with nuts that take an 11mm socket. You also need some extensions to get 10"+ reach for a few bolts.

    With the mill still on the stand, there was one screw on the right pan just behind the control panel I couldn't reach to get the silicone off. I ended up ripping that one out of the stand and will fix it when it gets put back together.

    The pickup location had a dock and we loaded onto a tiltback tow truck with a pallet jack. At my house, the driveway is sloped and we were able to take advantage of this and unload with a pallet jack and just a little tilt to meet the top of the driveway. Really easy move this way. The tow driver was excellent and will definitely be getting a call for future machine moves. $300 for a about 30 mile round trip for the driver. There are NO liftgate trucks available around here at this time, they are all on long term rentals. Trailering wasn't an option without a fork truck as there was no ground level exit for the machine.

    Next step is to move it to the basement, down the bulkhead. I should be able to do this only removing the base and the Y axis bellows, Y and Z axis motors. The mill will go on a sled pallet and be lowered down wood rails on the stairs. I've got 39.5" to work with as I am replacing the interior door.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0213.jpg   IMG_0212.jpg  

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