http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate...rUrl=Translate
It's difficult to translate directly. I do speak German, so it's a little better in the actual german. I am rusty though, so the english did fill in the gaps a little.
Digital Industries, Motion Control, Machine Tool Systems
http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate...rUrl=Translate
It's difficult to translate directly. I do speak German, so it's a little better in the actual german. I am rusty though, so the english did fill in the gaps a little.
Lee
is there an advantage to mounting the saddle/cross slide on an angle, as opposed to building a 'flat' lathe and mounting the whole thing to a bench that is angled? it would seem easier to build and still serve the same purpose.
Im still considering that option to. The advantage of having the cross slide angle is that turret/tool is angled infront of the axis. To get the same effect with a normal bed, you had to have some overhang on the cross slider itself. I think ill have to build a mock up of both designsto get a idea how it works.
By the way, im finishing up my master theises at the moment, so besides from checking the zone when i get bored writing, i dont have much time to do any machine work or build anything right now
Why don't you make it flat and then cast a concrete base? Then you'll have a good base, nice angle and no welding-strange-pieces headache.
Darn! That's an adult Kinderegg!
Hehe... Like the idea. So the base plate (or whatever you call the piece where the rails and headstock is bolted to) could be bolted to a large slanted concrete block. Sure would make the fabrication easier. How do you suggest bolting it to the block without bending it, its only 15mm thick, so i guess you could bend/warp it just by tighting it against a not perfectly flat surface?
Some searching led me to two options:
Selfleveling epoxy
Let the baseplate ride on bolts - http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...nt=18liten.jpg
I like the second option the best, my only worry is how easy it is to perfectly align the baseplate so it doesnt bend or warp
If you wanted to go the rock route, then you could use a granite surface plate sized properly. They are fairly inexpensive compaired to having steel or cast iron fabbed up. You could pour a slanted concrete base and simply set the surface plate into it while still wet. Drill and insert some J bolts into the surface plate bottom first, and you would have a solid base.
I doubt you would ever see any bowing in a 4 or 5 inch thick surface plate. (10 to 13 mm)
I have been running that option around in my head for my future lathe project. Mine would not be a slanted base though.
I have a little minim lathe cnc'ed now and I just have a lot of backlash. Hard to get anything near perfect that way. I have some better screws, but it would still take a good deal of work to install those. I'm thinking my time might be better spent on a complete new build. I am watching your thread with interest. Good luck with whatever you chose.
Lee
I had a converted mini lathe as well but came to the same conclusion as you. Time was better spend on new build.
As for the granit, i would rather just bolt the baseplate to the concrete itself. When i think about it, if aligned properly, a surface ground 20mm steelplate properly would be just fine
Doing a little reading i find that concrete moves and creeps over time (many years), so either you should loosen and tighten the bolts ones in a while or you should look into other sorts of materiales such as the epoxy granite. Guess i still have to rethink the solution
If you are going to bolt anything down in more than 3 places, you will end up distorting it to fit the thing you are bolting it to. Couldn't you build it flat, build a tilted table of no great accuracy and then just fix the machine at either end of the bed and the furthest out part of the cross-member? As long as the centre of gravity of the machine is within its feet (at all times), it won't want to move due to gravity.
The well known brake system producer ISR has a home made heavy duty lathe made of a steel cage filled with tarmac.
My spindle arrived today. Its a brand new sparepart for a german optimum lathe,MT4 taper inside, bore-through of 26mm. Bought a 125mm chuck adapter that needs a little adjustment to fit my chucks, ill do that when the lathe is up and running.
Now that's a beautiful piec of equipment...can't wait to see the machines completion..
so how much does something that nice cost? if you do not my me asking, and did you get matching bearings? nice!
150$ for it all, incl. shipping. Im glad i didnt bother making it my self:-) I didnt order a set of bearings, instead i plan to buy some angular contact bearings, 7209's of some sort
Wow!!!! Nice one!!!!! You saved yourself A LOT of work there.
Well done,
Chich
Guldburg, how does your turret/"revolver operate? I see their is a stepper motor incorporated into it but what makes the turret/revolver lift?. is it also run with pnuematic (air) pressure?
Springbased for holding and pneumatic for releasing. But i think i changed my mind and are going to build the turret the german linked to earlier build. Another guy also build it, he just uploaded a video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-9J4KsXYwU
Oppose to my design, this one has been proven to work.
I think both ideas are cool your design and dumpstercnc's build (youtube video). I'd like to build your turret lathe also and down loaded the plans for it but I can't seem to open SAT files...please advise on how to open [SAT] files. Thanks
It aint mine,just to clarify:-) Its some german guys.
Sat files are 3d cad file, most cad programs can open these. I uses pro/e, only i cannot open the file if the filename contains spaces or odd german letters