[bprager]

I've just finished going over and tweaking my machine, bearings, lube, VFD, etc.

Only one issue remains and I simply can't get a handle on it and hope someone here can help.

If I move the cross-slide down towards the spindle, then reverse, the cross-slide rotates slightly before moving back. Same if I do the opposite direction. If I tighten the gib strip anymore, the table movement binds.

I've dykem'd the gib strib and used a surface block to make sure it is straighten and even. I've tried everything else I can think of to no avail.

I've attached an image of the gib strip. The only thing that "bothers" me is the holes. They are in a line at all, and are at all different angles relative to the surface of the strip. Could this be the problem or am I chasing my tail?

If it is the problem, how do you make a good, straight gib strip?

Any and all assistance will be very greatly appreciated.

[bicycleboy]

Hi,
I haven't looked at this topic for a while but I don't think the problem has been solved yet. Look up table rotates.

I haven't figured it out on my machine yet. I believe the problem is related to poor manufactureing of the way interfaces on the saddle. Everybody talks about the gib strips but the problem seems like the opposite side of the table, the way area, is bowed in the middle allowing rotation of the table.

My machine, a 2007 model, works pretty good for manual machining. You can easily figure out where the slack is and compensate for it. Once you CNC, it as I have, the rotation and play in the acme screws becomes a real proplem. I am still working on the problem.

later

[fastlanecafe]

This seems to be a re-hash of a previous thread in which solutions were described in detail
go to
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=22654&page=3

[bprager]

This seems to be a re-hash of a previous thread in which solutions were described in detail
go to
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=22654&page=3

There are some "solutions" there, but nothing conclusive. I'm disabled and taking the lathe to someone to scrap the ways in not an viable option and everyone seems to be having a different issue. Unfortunately, it seems to point to lousy machining of the ways. If you get a good one or can scrap/grind one into shape, great. If not, if seems you get into a morass of issues.

Thanks for pointing out the orig thread, but I already knew it. I brought this up not to "Rehash" a thread, but to try a get a clean current perspective on this issue and was hoping a clean slate might help make it easier to see what can or can't be done.

Several people have suggested scrapping the ways, is that something I can do, or is it a professional job only? Has anyone heard of someone coming to you to do it, rather than you bring the lathe bed (an impossibility for me)?

Thanks again for all your help!

[norvil1]

i have fixed my table rotation problem, unfortunately if i tell you how they will delete my post.

[mixdenny]

I think what bicycleboy was alluding to is not so much the main bed ways, but rather the matching 'upside down ways' on the far underside of the saddle. If that area is not machined flat, it will allow the saddle to rock, just like loose gibs would do.

Scraping such a small area is something that is readily done, but in this case it is a lot of work since you have to remove the saddle to apply Dykem, then replace the saddle and gibs, slide it a bit to rub off the Dykem, then remove the saddle, scrape the high spots, etc. Repeat until satisfied. Scraping is a slow process and it will take lots of cycles to complete.

John Stranahan has a small section in his Shoptask book on marking and scraping the ways. I relieved a small tight section on mine using a file and stone, but it was the front bed way and was easy to get at.

Dennis

[fastlanecafe]

Stranahan"s book is great- he is really an amazing guy. He approaches each challenge calmly and finds some unique solutions - a real good read for anyone doing home machine work.

http://hometown.aol.com/johnstranaha...elingBook.html