that sounds about bang on.
This buckle is the only piece that is a problem because it is about 1-1.5" deep. And like you said, i am making a cavity that sil is poured in. There are no details in...
Type: Posts; User: kbillan
that sounds about bang on.
This buckle is the only piece that is a problem because it is about 1-1.5" deep. And like you said, i am making a cavity that sil is poured in. There are no details in...
you think that would fix it? Just a long reach end mill? what about the scaling issues? that, i assume is just a setting that is off somewhere?
you dont have anything smaller than .0625? Some of...
if you look closely at the outer edges, it is cut tapered, instead of perpendicular to the bottom/back. This is because the machine is hitting the object with the shank of the tool. I was using a...
Been a while since i have posted here. I hope all is well!
Truth is that i have not used my mill much since the project i bought it for was complete.
Anyway, i have decided to revisit the...
Sorry guys- I have been MIA. Hollidays have been hectic..
My machine seems to be running well. I say seems, because i have been running it all week and have not had any major mishaps. I made a...
I dont think it is a software issue. We all have the same version of Mach3 and the only thing in common with the people who have the problem seems to be DG1.
Leads me to believe it his parts. As...
Unbelieveable. This $$er should come in here and straiten it out.
I mean, i am happy im not the only one experiencing problems.. it sucks for ALL of us.. but.. maybe as a team we can get it going....
Sometimes.. I mean, when it fails.. and i hit go to zero== it is usually way off in Z.. but sometimes Y as well. I dont think it is in X usually, although is has been.
I ran some simple parts...
The biggest piece i can cut right now is about 4" in Y... so that stock, the cavity is cut to a little over 4". The part, is like 3.4x oh.. 5 or so... just off the top of my head.
I guess ill have...
It never went down-- but it may have to come to that. Changing the computer driver helped.. but still, missed a few small steps.. its not like before though- where it would be an INCH off...
And if it doesnt? I mean, i have been chasing this problem now for 2 months.. and i cant keep throwing money at it.. It needs to be resolved.
Was able to run some parts over the last couple days-- and i have them under silicon now- BUT- it is still missing. You can tell in the last parts i ran, there is a point where is jumps up about...
i did run a driver test== system excellent. Mach3.
LMAO-- 3 birds with one stone.. NICE. Mine seems to be working well.. although i did get it to stall, but i was standing on it,, so to speak.
I am now looking to get more precision out of the...
Okay- it seems to be going well now. the part is about half done and it looks good. It is a rather squared part and the edges seem to be slightly more round than I want. Is this due to constant...
9. Set Computer to Standard PC NOT ACPI PC
NOTE: This is only necessary if you wish to remove ACPI AFTER install.
If you followed step 0, you don't need to do this.
1. Right Click My Computer...
found it.. OMG i will be so happy if this is the end of the nonsense..
OMG-- it says ACPI Multi---
how do I change this to standard computer?
No-- no worries... If you think thats what it is--- Ill play along.. heading out the door now. I just HOPE that i dont have the same problem this afternoon. I mean-- you have a point- what else...
I am going bananas over here.
I just threw together another part drawing. Much more simple.. ran it and it looked like it was doing good.. roughing went well. I left more stock than usual hoping...
Guys- i started a new thread, mainly because the Z axis thread was HIJACKED.. and well.. i am about to give up.
I just tried to run another part-- and well... not even close to completion without...
Thanks- now thats thorough.. LOL. I was looking in general settings.. and configuration...
will do.
Now just have to figure out the machining face only..
thanks so much-
Keith
Oh no-- not at all- My issue is that I dont know how to do that LMAO.. it sounds BANG on..
what i really want it to do though, is just use the roughing pass of the boundry of the geometry and cut...
@ Guru Florida= I was. I put it on the new desktop i run the mill with though, and havnt looked back. It ran well on mac, but i have a laptop and you loose some functionality with a track pad ;)
...
I have not found it yet. I will be messing with it today- although i dont see any of the parts i will be cutting from here on out to be a HOG like the buckle..
Here is the buckle... notice in the...
My roughing is done with a .125" ball.. and the finish a .032" ball.
I am at work right now, so i cannot post a pic.
But what i want is= the tool to not crash into the sides of the part on the...
It wasnt the first part I ran ;) it was the most detailed though.
Also- it seems to have lost a little bit of the detail that was in the drawing. How do i make it more precise?
When i ran the driver test, I watched for a minute and then went up to deal with kids.. i came back down and it said test complete. No other message.
I have the Set at 3 for accel.. and 4 for X...
Looked pretty stable. :confused::confused:
Still like the looks of the Mach3 one, opposed to mach2..
Just started the part again.. luckily this is wax, cost would have been astronomical with...
I just ran the driver test-- uhm.. it looks different than in the manual- and i dont know what im looking at... LOL... anyone? What exactly am i looking for...
seems i have the Mach2 driver test.....