Hardinge calls them P16. Some others call it P1653C (collet) and P1653D (guide bushing). At least that's what my NN13 takes.
Type: Posts; User: cincron
Hardinge calls them P16. Some others call it P1653C (collet) and P1653D (guide bushing). At least that's what my NN13 takes.
It's an Ingersoll 1.250 w/.375 shank, 6 inserted facemill.
145 copper machines nice. So does 6061 and 360 brass.
I've used 1.250" inserted facemill and I've used .02" diameter ball mill (diameter, not radius)
On X and Y I can hold .0015". My Z axis...
I cut 360 brass and T6 aluminum. How fine do you want to go? I've used .02" ball mills on brass.
X and Y I can hold a .001". Z wanders a bit. .005".
...
They just had one for Chinese New Year. Not sure when the next one will be though.
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Hahahaha! Yes, now I see the confusion.
That's a pretty smart idea you have there. Might give that a try when I use the 4th axis. [emoji1303]
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The cord on this thing is too short! Has anyone tried an extension?
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Has anyone ever put an extension on their tool setter? If I measure correctly, it's a 2.1mm-ish ID and a 5.5mm-ish OD. Amazon has one that's 6ft. I really just need another foot or two.
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I used Zerex Asian vehicle formula, 50/50. I had about 3 quarts of it left after using 1 quart in my Subaru. I added about 2 quarts of water just to fill up my 5 gallon bucket enough so it was over...
IMHO, I would not use a fly cutter with these spindles. At 5000+ rpm, I'm concerned about balance. If the tool is out of balance (like fly cutters are) it may cause premature bearing wear.
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I've used a 5 inserted 1.5" facemill. It was one a customer of mine said it was ruined and they were throwing it away. I repaired it and it's perfect for brass/aluminum.
I will say the 2.2KW has...
I have this Coolant mister, does what it's supposed to do;
Yosoo Mist Coolant Mist Lubrication System Used for CNC Lathe Milling Drill Machine (save-energy type)...
On X and Y I can hold .003". The Z axis from what part to the next wanders up to .015". I bumped Z off an indicator for an hour and there's some good thermal growth that's .007". Not sure why my 360...
I live in Ohio, have the X6-2200L. I didn't have or want to put 220v in my basement. I went with the 110v version. It's still spec' out as 2.2kw and the ER20 collet.
I've done some pretty long...
I'm more interested in the plexiglass sides. Is there any interference issues?
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If you flip your part in the vice and use the same X and Y coordinate, you'd just have to set Z. Of course this all depends on what you're making.
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I slowed my referencing (zeroing) down to half of what it came with. Seems to be more repeatable from day to day. I've been using a vise with the same work coordinate. It appears to be the same...
When I got mine, I set it up on the kitchen table just to make sure it worked... then I built a work bench and moved it down the basement. Did a quick alignment and went to town. I'm pleased with my...
Did you "crash" it? One huge thing I noticed about steppers is, unlike servos, steppers don't stop...
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Has anyone tried to use Windows 10? I just hooked it up to my windows 10 box, installed Mach3 and it works.
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Thank you!
I haven't gotten too far with it but yes, axis order is one of the things I need to do. I would also like to make it "inch" instead of metric but that appears to be somewhat...
I just got my X6-2200L yesterday. The box was a little mangled but it made it. I don't have my workbench made so I set it up on the kitchen table just to see if everything appears to work. (Perks of...
This is a great solution and will be my next upgrade!
Are you using coolant or air for the cutting lubrication?
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According to the Fanuc Oi-TD manual, its a program issue with the Parenthesis not being open and closed. make sure you have both (of these) in the program.
You never will do anything that the machine can't handle (as long as you can chuck it you can make it). You just have to be a bit creative when doing things, AKA Think outside the box...
For -X-...
Well,
Our Daewoo's have preformed quite nice. In the beginning of my experience with these machines, I had an "attitude" because the TT2500SY had so many issues with the ladder...
Here, 3-4...
We use Cimco Software... it's the best... you should check it out at:
http://www.wirelessshopfloor.com/
This is a bit late....
But I always just use the Z starting point for multi starts... I never liked the Q (personal preference I guess)
if you have a lead on the thread that is .500... and a...
I use partmaker also... personally, i feel it has a bit of a hard time que'ing up the 2 turrets... I code pinch turning by hand...
There is an M-code which tells the upper turret to look at the...
I've used swiss silver HP for years... works good... keeps things clean...