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Added another coat of white and black paint and it's much better now. When spinning at 2500rpm it would flash an odd reading once every 30-40 seconds. When spinning around 600rpm it would read...

Hmmmm...should I just have left the spindle without the white paint since it's bare aluminum with a turned finished? Seems like it would catch the light in the room much better than the white paint....

Ok got the sensor and have it installed.

As of right now it seems to be working decently well. I was getting super erratic readings with only 1 coat of flat black paint on the spindle. It didn't...

Ya, no problem
Should have it delivered and installed by this weekend.

I went ahead and grabbed the iMach spindle tach. The usb connection is going to save me a bunch of time now that I don't have to pull apart my enclosure, cut and mount the connectors for 12v/prox...

Hmm, looks like I'll need another sensor then. This is going on a Taig and with my pulley setup I'll be looking at just under 11,000 rpm. I also planned on epoxying something small to the pulley to...

Here is the sensor I bought. How do I tell if it's OC type? I also just realized it says switch :idea:

LJ8A3-2-Z/BX NPN NO DC 6 to 36V Proximity Switch Sensor | eBay


Can anyone point me to...

Decided to add a treadmill motor and a prox sensor to my mill recently and am having some issues with the prox sensor. It's a NPN NO inductive type sensor and a g540 setup.

I wired up initially...

Most of the decent vise allow you to move the jaw around

Heh, I was talking about the OP's setup :D

Treadmill motors weight about the same as stock taig motor. So for you, I don't see any reason to not use one if you're considering the stock motor. You'll get variable speed that you can control...

Also, I was actually thinking about mounting a treadmill motor right above the spindle and doing away with the pulleys. This would limit me to the max rpm of the motor but I'm seeing some 7100rpm...

Ok, so you aren't actually using a Taig. Are you going to mount the motor the same way as the Taig?

I don't know if I'd start out with those vises as they're going to be pretty big and eat up some of the travel on your table. The smaller 4" toolmakers vise you linked earlier would probably work...

3IPM at 2600 sounds about right may be a tad slow for a 4 flute.

You could also try 6IPM at 4200 or 10IPM at 6700 and see how that goes. You may be able to speed it up with those settings and not...

Here are a few things I'd suggest:

-Dial Indicator with Magnetic base and tips
-Dial Test Indicator
-Spindle holder for Dial Test Indicator
-Edge Finder
-Center Finder -- if you feel you need...

Thanks

I cut it in half and tossed some covers around the edge of the table now. Helps keep most of the liquid and chips out.

Try these slots with a 1/4" carbide and see if you comfortable with the results. Make sure you motor belt is nice and tight.

10600rpm and 30IPM with 1mm DOC
6700rpm and 24IPM with 1mm DOC...

The piece in the picture was conventional cut with .0015" left over and then climb milled for the finish.

I went through everything again today that people mentioned and also readjusted my gibs. ...

I went through and tried/tested everything that was mentioned so far and it still seems to be happening. Only thing I noticed is that when I pulled the lead screw out of the nut that it isn't...

I'd interested to hear if it's the screw, motor or stepper. I too noticed my taig doesn't do as well with 3/8" cutters. More than anything I think it's the motor on my end which I'm going to be...

Just pulled off the stepper and moved the table and it feels smooth with no play...maybe it's not the gib. Not sure what it would be though.

Well, I guess it's time for me to post about a problem I've been trying to solve for a week now. My Y axis isn't smooth during it's travel and it's leading to a rippled surface finish. I'm pretty...

Got a mc60 and treadmill motor combo out of a local treadmill and pulled out the choke with it. Does anyone have input on using the choke or not? With the mc60 it is just wired on the motor neg...

The longer the Y axis the farther out the spindle has to be from the z axis to make use of the room. This will reduce rigidity of the machine, which it doesn't have a lot of to begin with.

I think it's a vibration problem like you mentioned. Original DOC was 1mm and I just tried .8mm and got the same results. I sat another toolmakers vise on the table while it ran and the finish got...

I'm looking to add some plastic gutters around the table to drain off coolant away from the screw, gibs, etc. Would I be able to trim that dowel that sits about the x axis lock screw down to about...

I figured I'd ask this here instead of making a new thread as it relates. I'm cutting some heatsink fins in 6061 and am trying to figure out why my finish looks like it does. The slots are .144"...

Prices are pretty decent as well like already mentioned