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Not much help but all I can say is you need a high quality mill, the one in video seems not rugged enough [chatter], to cut steel in high detail.

To do it right with the least amount of run out and finish it needs to be ground, I'm pretty sure you can have a tiny center in both end, if not, make it longer and cut back.
You can cut the ball at...

I grind a carbide bit nice and sharp with lots of rake and a little corner radius.

It's a bronze used for bearings & rollers

Hmn..can't be very good steel,.. most likely not tool steel.
I was going to say to put it back the way it was,....must have been under tension.
Can you take it to a grinding shop, or somebody who...

Have done some 1/8" slitting into 4140H. today, just noticed that most my slitters are
around 3 1/2" - 4" 36T plus minus some.

thedave, when you were saying that you use 2", I kind of pictured...

Yes, this sounds about right.

Why only .0001 per tooth?
How many parts you have to make?
Cut speed in half or less and go about 9 IPM then your'e close, I don't go by the book anymore for over 35 years.
I see you're in a bit...

A triple chip cuts easier because you have the high tooth cutting in the center of slot,
the low tooth will cut the sides, so the with of the cut, [chip] is 1/3,...versus full with
on regular...

I'll get better finish with triple chip configuration, ...as recommended in my first post.
One high one low tooth about .002 different, the high tooth beveled. I grind this on
cold saws also.

Remember, a smaller diameter slitter...if you can get away with, will cut nicer, less
fibration, cleaner cut... always aim for the smallest possible cutter.

Sorry no link, the 40 teeth might work, just slow down feed for lesser amount of chip load per tooth.
Good coolant flow is very important too.
Carbide is more brittle and the very outer sharp edge...

This should be a clear cut answer,.....wherever the cutter exit, the burr will be greater.
In aluminum I would use a HSS cutter, HSS can have a sharper cutting edge, a freshly ground triple chip or...

Welding is kind of iffy if you don't know what steel you're dealing with, especially
this small of a drive shaft, most likely a alloy steel...preheat and you might be OK ..still,
the weld most...

This might work.... cut it off, turn the end to a 3/8 thread about 5/8 long, turn the other shaft with a 3/8 taped hole and loctite it together.

Only when machine is on and I run cad cam, otherwise it's unplugged because one time lightning fried one board and PC...that was a expensive bill.

Thank you DD!
How would I do that to check for current to parameter?
Wouldn't there be current when power in on?

The 6 Volt battery was installed 9 years ago, figured it would be time to change
and do it myself, not sure anymore if my memory is correct...change when machine
is on, ..right? Oh..does this...

...what is easier?

Dude,
I haven't been around here for a long time, so I don't know what Bob cad users
say in terms of friendliness and reliability with this product. It seems some years
ago...

I have been running 17 for many years, now hard drive is shot.
Bought version 20 some years ago and never bothered to get into...tried,
but bobcad could never make me a working post for Maho,...

OK Mike, this is starting to make sense.
I was going to mention on the arbor using 304 SS, I guess in a emergency situation you can get by but it's always nice to have the proper tool on hand down...

Mike,
I see...you're going the key seat cutter route,...good!
Can you not do it in one pass??
Not sure what diam. your cutter is but 1200 RPM seems high,
just by the looks of it, 200 RPM is...

I'm not a carbide lover in something like this,.. take a good 1 1/8 or 1 1/4" rougher HSS, full depth one pass,...100 pieces should be possible, carbide endmill has a hard time to beat this.

Konrad

HSS Keyseat cutters work best ....if you can allow a radius a the end, get it done much faster too, you always go full depth one cut, the same with endmill, get a 3/8 shank instead of 1/4, allot...

Maple Leaf metals

I have done this in the past and got screw...d over and over.
Now I drive it to the dealer myselfs and get almost double.

Konrad

>>The threading is not an issue but I now have a thread that calls for a "quick start". I understand what this<<

Sorry no help to you, perhaps you can explain me what this is?


Konrad

John, you're right...no need to show mechanism here.
I would never duplicate the same thing....no fun!
The idea is cool, how did you ever came to this?

>>With a gentle yet firm outward pull from...

You did a fine job, John!...your wife should be pleased!
Pictures doesn't show complexity of the whole mechanism.
It would be nice to see some detail of part's.
Picture doesn't show the bottom of...

Perhaps make one up, turn down shank and sliver solder a piece of drill rod with a hole in it.
Have made some, up to 2 foot long.

Konrad