http://pminmo.com
Two Simple Unipolar drivers (single sided for the DIY Toner Transfer folks)Two Choppers L297-8 combo, Allegro A3987.
A Simple Break Out Board (single sided for the DIY Toner Transfer folks)
A Opto Isolated BOB is in work.
Eagle files are available if not posted on the website.
Phil :cheers:
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HEIDENHAIN
Forum
11897
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07-26-2004, 09:48 PMpminmoOpen Source Boards Available, Stepper Drivers and Break Out Boards
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07-26-2004, 10:17 PMcbcnc
pminmo,
Post them in the new links section. There is a place for Opensource Designs.
They sound good, I will have a look at them myself.
Thanks,
Chris -
07-26-2004, 11:08 PMpminmo
I see two Open source links, one for machines one for software. What about for electronics?
Phil -
07-26-2004, 11:20 PMynneb
Great job Phil & guys. We should have a party.
http://smilies.cw08.calibra-web.de/h...s/party/09.gifhttp://smilies.cw08.calibra-web.de/h...s/party/04.gifhttp://smilies.cw08.calibra-web.de/h...y/balloons.gif
The first open source boards developed by that funny little crowd who speak a foreign language to most here. I will ask Paul to set up a section for them to be downloaded. -
07-27-2004, 03:50 AMynneb
Phil, there is now a new section created for " Free/Open-source CNC electronics Schematics and artwork" you can access it from here http://cnczone.com/modules.php?name=...ategory&cid=58
If you would prefere CNCZone to host the file, please send it to [email protected] -
07-27-2004, 11:25 PMchuckknigh
Where can I find the copper layer for the 3977 boards? I saw it available for the 5804 and the 297/298 versions, but not for the chips *I* have.
Isn't that always the way it goes? ;-)
-- Chuck Knight -
07-28-2004, 12:14 AMpminmo
Chuck I can post the copper if you like. Or email, It's a double sided board, 10mil traces and clearance, A lot of via's. Not much or a board for the DIY'er unless you have em made by a pcb house.
Phil
I attached though if you are so inclined. -
07-28-2004, 02:01 AMcncadminI added a link here to your site-Quote:
Originally Posted by pminmo
http://cnczone.com/modules.php?name=...nkinfo&lid=193 -
07-28-2004, 03:01 AMchuckknigh
Are your copper images mirrored, for toner transfer? I just don't want to mess up, on my first attempt.
-- Chuck Knight -
07-28-2004, 03:24 AMchuckknigh
Nevermind, I just opened it and noticed the backwards text. Definitely laid out for the toner transfer crowd.
-- CK -
07-28-2004, 03:25 AMpminmo
No Chuck I'm pretty sure I did them without mirroring. Eagle I believe put text on the bottom in mirror format I think. Pretty sure they are straight up, look closer, do you need me to mirror them for you?
Phil -
07-29-2004, 04:26 AMslp_prlzyshi pminmo, I moved my quest here, I hope it's ok,Quote:
slp, the 5804 pin 1 is enable it has to be held to a logic low or you can wire it to ground, other than the led it won't do didly without enable low. Pin 3 is direction and pin 5 is step. Pin 7 is gnd and pin 9 is an option for 5vdc out or in. Dingy me I had a small instruction document put together, but didn't get it on the website. (its attached to this reply) Organization isn't one of my strong points. It's possible you could have blown one ore more of the FET's, were the running hot? Was your motor an 18V motor, or did you have some current limiting resistors in, or what do you know about the motor? R4 and R5 depend on the motor and power supply, and have to be calculated the same as the discrete board. You did compare your motor rating to your power supply correct?
I was going to start a new thread, but don't know what I should
put in the title,
First, I know nothing about motor, a little slow but I'm
learning. My motor is 5.2V 1.4A/phase, I know that my pwr supply
is not enough since it's only 1A, I was just testing it, would you
mind explaining what was happening If i.e. my test setup,
does the motor sucks too much current? ( I think the term was draw)
I haven't any resistor yet, since I haven't decided what type of
power supply I should be using, I'm leaning toward ATX supply,
with ************* hacks. I also got the steppercalc Balsaman posted,
to ease up on the calculation.
The FETs were hot before it killed the power supply and the board.
thanks for the doc btw, I sure am hoping your not losing your patience
on a newbie :) -
07-29-2004, 12:28 PMpminmo
slp,
Not losing patience at all, thanks for moving the thread. More later, but in short to use an 18V pwr supply on a 5.2v motor, you need current limiting resistors.
More tonight.
Phil -
07-29-2004, 12:41 PMtachus42
slp what FETs did you use on the board? Without resistors your motor would have been trying to draw about 4.5 amps per phase ie 9 amps total! Still the FETs shouldn't have been getting hot. If you used standard rather than logic level mosfets they would get only partially turned on causing them to get hot and then fail.
Another thing which could have happened is that your power voltage dropped under too much load. If it got down to less than 7 volts or so then the circuit wouldn't be able to supply enough voltage to the mosfets to turn them on properly leading to failure of the fets again.
Phil the max supply of the discreet unipolar board needs to be 30 volts with the given fets - the off fets will see twice the power supply due to transformer action of the windings. -
07-29-2004, 01:07 PMtachus42
It appears we have made a mistake with the design of the discreet unipolar board.
I just had a look at the irfz44 datasheet - i had just taken it on face value that it was a logic level mosfet but it ain't. Everybody else did too right?
It should still work well under moderate load but if the logic power supply drops just a tiny bit then the magic smoke will get out.
A better choice for the mosfet would be a STP30NE06. -
07-29-2004, 09:45 PMpminmo
Tach,
I did take the irfz44 design mostly at face value. I did download the irfz44v datasheet and glance at it. It's fuzzy on specs, but gate threshold voltage is min 2 max 4V and at 4.5V at 25C its 12A on a typical transfer curve (below 4.5v it's not shown). Considering it's being driven by a 4013, they have a min output of 4.95 with a 5VDD. Assuming a 50mv drop in the pull up fet on the 4013 with a 7805 min spec is 4.8V, 4.75V I would think they should be ok. But admittedly it's not the kind of margin I would prefer. But the fact that the FET's are getting hot would indicate they aren't fully on. Your correct on the 30VDC good catch.
Phil
SLP, have you tried checking the FET's? Also, you said you had messed up on the 5v jumper setup initially that probably blew the 74hc14. I'm wondering if you may have damaged the 7805 also. -
07-29-2004, 10:30 PMslp_prlzys
I test the FETs on my the controller and they're
fine, actually I wasn't satisfied with my test,
so I exchange them to the new controller, I then
test that new board and it's working fine,
Now the first built board has new FETs.
I did the probing and all but the switching test fail,
well technically it pass but since the board is not
working there's gotta be something wrong,
here's my new findings:
Pin#
1=HI X9-1=LO
2=HI X9-2=LO
13=HI X8-2=LO
12=HI X8-1=LO
any suggestions what to probe next?
I'm getting 5.06V on E5 if that matters.
should I replace the FETs which tachus42 suggested, for better
performance?
thanks guys for helping me on my venture to
this new found world of mine. -
07-29-2004, 11:03 PMpminmo
slp I'm confused. Did the new board work with the motor? Then you changed FETS and the new board works with the motor?
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07-29-2004, 11:56 PMslp_prlzys
I didn't test the new board with my 5.2V 1.4A/phase motor,
afraid of frying it too, I tested it with a small 24V .32A/phase motor
I haven't change the FETs yet, I just exchange the 2 board
so I could make sure it's not the problem. I tested the FETs,
they seem fine, but not being satisfied with my own test,
I put FETs from the defective board, and put it on the new board,
then I test the new board and it's fine. Now the FETs that was
on the new board was place on the defective board, then
I test it and the result I posted prior to this.
(I was gonna ask someth about the 5804 version,
but first thing first). -
07-30-2004, 12:53 AMpminmo
slp,
At 18 V the 5.2 1.4A motor needs a 9 ohm (20 watt) resistor (physically big) in each supply leg to the motor. At 12VDC you need a 5 ohm 10 watt resistor.
As far as the bad board goes:
1. nothing hooked up but the power supply, do both LEDs light?
2. If both leds light, if you touch the probe to ground does the probe light go out?
Phil
