[aarggh]

@bluumax, thanks for pointing that out with the sensors, I actually have my machine in the study :-), so I'd planned on building a fully enclosed MDF shroud for it and then duct the outside dust extractor to it through the wall ( I already have a cabling entry so I can add another 35mm pipe easily enough). As the Proxxon is way quieter than most mills, it would be more to stop dust billowing than noise control, but that's a great point about dust getting into/on the optos. I'll have to think on that more but I think it would be easily solved by several miniature dust extraction tubes fitted above them to collect any particles, as I will be building an extraction shroud to fit around the base of the mill so dust will be extremely minimal i'm hoping.

I'm using an old Festo extractor so this thing will suck the shag out of a carpet! (love Festo gear!)

With the questions others have asked about repeatability, earlier in this thread I upped some shots I did on MDF and thick cardboard, I routed spiral patterns over the top of each other over several days, and using my magnifying lamp couldn't discern any devaition in the routing, so I would probably have to agree with Luke Chan that it is highly repeatable, although I did all my test spirals in one run without doing a different pattern inbetween, even though they were done over several days.

If however you did one run, then another run of something else, and then went back to the first one, I don't know if this would have any effect on any possible homing drift? I doubt it but it is possible.

Still, for what it's worth, I wouldn't hesitate buying one again as I think it's an amazingly affordable piece of (from what I can tell at this point anyway) machinery!

I'm still trying to get to grips with EMC and Mach3, and creating PCB's using Eagle, so i'm a little way off really getting into anything meaningfull, other than the tests I uploaded shots of earlier.

[aarggh]

@redliquid33, I bought a bunch of different sized carbide cutters off these guys on Ebay, 10 for $30AU delivered! Hard to beat.

Auction number is 400076199947

I didn't put the URL as it's sooo long.

[bluumax]

The other thing that will work in favor of optics on the router is, they're are up away from the table, or protected under. On the mill they're under & unprotected.

A problem I had with my Taig was, it kept gaining / accumulation.
I think it's because the screws are rolled, and the amount of tiny movements.
I was doing my pads square, .08".
Since they're on a .1 grid and I'm using a .02" cutter, that keeps "slivers" from happening. Make sense?

Here's the thread on advancing in X / Y. Never have figured out exactly what is causing it.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...hlight=bluumax


Those are good bits. I tried the 30° but don't have the RPM even with a Dremel to get good cuts.
I really like the 90° though. I could do about 20 boards before it wore out.

[mk77]

"also cnc controller gets kinda hot..."
Bolt it to a bigger heatsink with a fan.
The drivers are bolted through the bottom & the whole housing acts like a heatsink.

this will help with only a portion of the problem.
It seems that the 2200ufd caps are too small to
handle the large amount of current flowing during
motor start and stop. Also the current sense
resistors are rated at 2 watts and tend to get
warm in addition to the above mentioned caps.
I tried a couple of approaches to reduce the heat
and so far they seem to be working very well.
1. install larger low E.S.R. caps (the largest
I could fit are 8200ufd) source: Digikey.
2. install 3 watt current sense resistors (1/2 ohm)
3. install a heat sink/fan combo (from older cpu).
With these three mod's I do not notice as high
case temps that I had before the mod's. I kick
myself for not taking pics when I had it apart
but will try to get some pics posted soon....

[bluumax]

Any word on getting the Z axis running yet?

[antonyko]

Anybody who bought Sable 2015 from USA, did you have to pay custom duty? Thank you for your time.

[redliquid33]

i did not have to pay a import fee to the U.S.


I got my new cnc controller awhile ago and everything works... Haven't really
done anything on it lately... been real busy with school

[antonyko]

I am sure some of you have integrated the controller and the power supply inside a PC case. Can anyone post photos of the hook up to get some idea? I know Sherline guys does that. Thank you for your time.

[amd643200]

Hi all.
I work for a signage company in the uk, i operate a AXYZ 6010 router. I really want to get something for small engraving work... Can these machines engrave acrylics?

[amd643200]

anyone???

[bluumax]

I don't own one but I know it would work.

[amd643200]

ok, thankyou for your reply

May get myself one soon!

[aarggh]

Hi all.
I work for a signage company in the uk, i operate a AXYZ 6010 router. I really want to get something for small engraving work... Can these machines engrave acrylics?

I'm now successfully using mine for PCB's and MDF, so yes, for acrylics it shouldn't be any different. I did have heating problems when milling a bunch of polycarb though, but this was related to the z-axis drill speed.

[Luke S]

I am a newb here so go easy on me. I have been doing a lot of research on the sable and really think this is the machine for me, I plan to do PCB engraving and drilling. I looked into the fireball and it looks nice but is $100 more plus the cost of stepper motors to match what comes with the sable, also the fireball has a MDF table vs the sable aluminum table. It seems many people do not like the controller that comes in the sable kit. I was thinking of buying the bare sable kit on ebay that includes the steppers, mounting my own spindle \ router, and buy a higher quality controller. The steppers seem to have enough torque to handle PCB stuff fine.

Has anyone mounted a minimal run-out spindle more suited for PCB work to the sable like the Paul Jones's $90 or the Wolfgang Spindle? Any idea how you would mount it without designing and ordering a custom CNCed mount.

I have not heard much feedback form many of the people here who bought the sable machine. How has it turned out, any regrets?

Did you guys with the table leveling issue find a solution?

Thanks!

[Luke S]

I wanted to add some links I have found that have some great pictures and information for those searching the web trying to compile some information on this machine like myself. Unfortunately some links are not in English but Google translator or babel fish helps a lot.


Link 1
Here are two CNCs that seems the be very similar to the sable 2015, maybe this is where the ebay auction seller is getting the machine from? Anyway it has more specs then the ebay page: http://sites.google.com/site/cncdiymachines/cnc2518 & http://sites.google.com/site/cncdiymachines/cnc2015.

The awesome thing is the CNC 2016 Machine Set Option (MSO) kit is actually the same price this website ($500) and seems to be a cleaner setup with wire looms, etc! http://sites.google.com/site/cncselling/ The CSO (Completed Set Option) kit which includes (CNC 2016, 3 Stepping Motors, 57mm DC Miller with ER11 Chunk, CB001 3 Axes Control Box with DC Miller Speed Adjustable, 5 Basic Cutting Tools Set, and Computer Power Cable and Parallel Port Cable) for $590.

Link 2 (few pics)
Japanese: http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/takame1965/folder/1794493.html
Google translated to English: http://translate.google.com/translat...2F1794493.html
Babel fish translated to English: http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate...rUrl=Translate

Link 3 (great pics, tons of great info, mach3 setup instructions, click around on the side bar)
Japanese: http://cncmill.web.fc2.com/kouseicnc.htm
Google translated to English: http://translate.google.com/translat...Fkouseicnc.htm
Babel fish translated to English: http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate...rUrl=Translate

Link 4
Here is a post on millpcbs.com forum, a member there has made some pretty nice PCBs using the Sable 2015 with a Wolfgang Engineering spindle: http://www.millpcbs.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=35 unfortunately you have to be a member to see attachments

[Lapidee]

New bee here.

Getting my Sable 2015 in a coupple of hours.

Thank you all for the replay's here.

I'm a new bee with CNC and have an million questions but start reading befor asking stupid questions.

I want to use him for cutting 3 D models out of wax so afterwarts I can cast in goud of Silver as juwelery

Thanks sofar Ruud


Sorry about my bad englisch
Can write is down in Dutch butt don't expect it works better.

[aarggh]

Has anyone mounted a minimal run-out spindle more suited for PCB work to the sable like the Paul Jones's $90 or the Wolfgang Spindle? Any idea how you would mount it without designing and ordering a custom CNCed mount.

I have not heard much feedback form many of the people here who bought the sable machine. How has it turned out, any regrets?

Did you guys with the table leveling issue find a solution?

Thanks!

I couldn't be happier with my Sable, for what it cost me it does what I want admirably. True the plate needs leveling, but as the cutting area isn't that big and the variance isn't that great I haven't worried about it yet. When I have time i'll be making a plexiglass plate to sit on the plate and use a flycutter to level the equivalent of the cutting area.

Repeatability is very good, as is the accuracy, i'm now doing quite small pcb's with 0.5mm tracks beautifully with it. Even worked out a way to do the drilling, sort of that is :-)

So I have no regrets at all, I absolutely love having it, but I also realise it's limitations, I'll never be using it to route or mill heavy metals for example. Although I have done a little bit of light aluminium panel work and it was just fine. It is a light duty machine when it comes to light metals and woods, but for patterns, mdf templates, pcb's, etc, it is just the bee's knees! I've attached a (crappy sorry!) pic of a recent pcb using through hole components.

Given the size and grunt of the machine I think unless you had a spindle handy and it didn't require too much work to fit it, it just wouldn't be worth it. I can't speak for others but i'm confused by the remarks that the supplied controller is no good, it is what it is, and it works well. The controller is a fairly bog standard design based on the chips used, and more than meets the requirements of the steppers used. And again, the steppers are pretty much the largest oz/in rating possible for the machine.

The only thing that is crap about the machine is the standard miller supplied in the package deal, it couldn't be worse and I really regret buying it even though it was quite cheap! Until you've used really good quality tools it's terribly hard to get across how bad the crap ones are in comparison. For myself, I am so happy with the IB/E Proxxon miller I bought I have also bought two other 12V versions which have proved invaluable for pcb routing and drilling. I have no affiliation whatsoever with Proxxon, but would happily recommend them to anyone, they are a perfect fit for anything the Sable is capable of and do it with the absolute minimal noise and vibration, spindle run-off is virtually non-existant too!

[redliquid33]

hey arrggh,
that looks pretty good, looks a little deep, but still looks good.

[CypherDragon]

ANy one care to condense the thread?

1. Is it good for a hoby/beginner cnc?
2. Is base stable?
3. Is base lvl (or do you need adjustable feet?
4. Can you upgrade stepper and spindle's?
5. Can it handle the torque of upgrade's?

[aarggh]

hey arrggh,
that looks pretty good, looks a little deep, but still looks good.

The tracks are a little deep because i'm a tight-a**e and didn't buy many carbide cutters, and when setting the depth actually hit the plate so the end chipped off the bits!

I started with 20 degree ones, but are now using 45-60 degree cutters just as good, and not being so tight an angle they aren't as brittle while working.

With the 45 degree ones I can now route two isolation tracks inbetween 0.254" pads which means for any larger SMD work, and most certainly all through hole pcb's, the Sable is more than adequate. The plate is very slightly uneven, so I am routing just that little bit deeper to allow till I level it.