\r\n Wow, quite an undertaking you got there. I know how you feel about the endless cleaning. My restoration feels like 80% cleaning, 20% progress. Keep posting before and after pics, very satisfying. \n \nCan you spin the spindle by hand? How does it feel?\r\n
\r\n Thanks Nigel. Yea I know the feeling. Sometimes I feel like I take 3 steps forward and 2 steps back but luckily most of the cleaning is done. \n \nAs far as the spindle goes it spins very freely. You can easily spin it with just your pinky. The bearings feel very smooth and if you spin it up by hand as fast as you can it\'ll spin for a few seconds.\r\n
\r\n This post will basically sum up what happened between December and early June. \r\n \r\nI was contracted to do a website in late November so I knew I wouldn\'t have a lot of time to spend on this machine for several months but at the same time I knew that the $$ would be vital in getting this project done. So between working at the machine shop, the website and a few other side projects I haven\'t had much time to put into working on the machine. In February I did buy a used air compressor that I then decided to rebuild. We needed a bigger air compressor for the shop and I needed something with some decent throughput to use for sandblasting. \r\n \r\nBack in December I bought a gas powered pressure washer along with a sandblasting attachment. I thought this would have been more effective than using traditional dry sand blasting but it was a flawed system. When it worked it worked well although being drenched with water in mid December here in New Jersey isn\'t fun. However it was difficult keeping the sand in the nozzle from clogging up so eventually I just gave up on it and sold the pressure washer. That was before I had a big enough air compressor to do dry sand blasting. \r\n \r\nAt some point in December I managed to hookup the Mazak to some power and air and fire her up. I was pleased to see that everything turn on and seemed to be in good working order. I first had to figure out how to home the axes. I fiddle around with that for a bit and finally found out that you have to jog the axis away from the home switch an inch or so and then jog the axis back towards the home switch until you hit the switch. The machine then runs through its homing cycle for that axis. If the axis is already on the switch then as you jog away from the switch the controller will see that you were already on the switch so it runs the homing cycle as soon as you come off of the switch. \r\n \r\nI then proceeded to run the spindle. Everything seemed fine there. I ran it up to its max (6000rpm) and it sounded good. \r\n \r\nI then decided to do some simple backlash tests to see what condition the ballscrews were in. I placed an indicator on the table and indicated off of the spindle to get backlash readings for X and Y axes. I would move the axis using the hand wheel a couple of inches until a reading would show up on the indicator. I would then zero the indicator and back off .0001 and see if I would get a reading. To my surprise I had 0 backlash in the X and Y axes over different points of their respective travels. \r\n \r\nThe z-axis on the other hand had some backlash. I was getting just under .0005 backlash on the z. At first thought backlash on the Z doesn\'t really make sense since the weight of the spindle would always be pushing down on the ballnut and as long as an external upward force would not exceed the weight of the z-axis assembly there should be no backlash. This machine, however, uses a hydraulic counterbalance which negates the weight of the spindle but in turn adds a slight amount of resistance to z-axis motion. Add the slight stick slip from the box ways and that will be enough resistance to cause some backlash. With a properly preloaded ballnut the backlash shouldn\'t be this high unless there\'s a lot of static resistance in the setup. I\'ll have to retest the z-axis backlash across different points of its travel and see if I\'m getting consistent results. The machine uses the double nut type ballnuts which use a spacer between the two nuts to provide the preload. Maybe I\'ll add a shim or make a thicker spacer to remove the backlash. If anyone has some experience bringing new life to old ballscrews jump on in. \r\n \r\nI also played around with the pallet changer using the manual controls. Everything seems in good working order which was a big relief considering I bought the machine blind with little to no information about its condition. There were only two minor issues. When the pallet door is closed the solenoid leaks air so I\'ll probably replace it with a new one and there is a very minor air leak coming from the spindle; probably the spindle air blast solenoid leaking. \r\n \r\nAfter that I really didn\'t touch the machine until early June because of all the other things I had going on. I\'ll leave it off at that and in the next post I\'ll start off with some more current stuff.\r\n
\r\n ORIGINAL MAZAK MAZATROL M2. \r\n \r\nARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES? \r\n \r\n \r\nWill look at the servo motor> with brushes Mitsibischi / under technical telephone helpline Mazak is the tachometer that measures and controls the speed .. \r\n \r\n \r\ngrtz \r\npdf\r\n
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\r\n For those who are wondering how to manual release the z-axis brake here\'s what to do. The brake is up towards the top of the z-axis ballscrew just above the belt pulley. You\'ll probably have to take off some panels to get to it. You\'ll need to undo the two wires going into the brake and apply a voltage. The brake is rated for 24v but I managed to get the brake to release at 12v. I used a battery pack that had 10 1.2v NiMH batteries that I had laying around. I know this technically isn\'t manual brake release but it\'ll get your spindle down if your machine isn\'t hooked up to the panel. I\'m not sure if the brake has a polarity but just to be safe I applied the - side of the battery pack to the "G24" wire which is the ground for the 24v power supply and applied + to the "60" wire which is the 24v signal. In my case the hydraulic counterbalance kept the z-axis from running away. Instead it slowly went down but your setup might be different so be prepared by holding the pulley and use caution.\r\n
\r\n So back in early June I managed to snag a good deal on a Kflop + Kanalog on eBay. Soon after I bought a wiring diagram from Mazak. After studying the wiring diagram I noticed that all the digital I/Os that I was interested in were going through 4 cables (CND1, CND2, CND3, CND4). I\'m not sure what CND5 and CNA10 are used for. I suspect they are for options that are not implemented on my machine. So my thought is to buy 4 MR-50L Honda connectors and wire them to my kflop setup and plug them right in to the terminal board that way I don\'t have to touch anything past the terminal board. \r\n \r\nI made an excel spreadsheet, which I\'ll post down below, with a list of all the digital inputs and outputs that I\'ll need to interface with and a list of the pin connections of the 4 connectors. If you have a VQC and are planning on doing a retrofit please don\'t use this info without looking at the wiring diagram that is specific to your machine first. There are many variations to the VQC and are probably wired differently and have different options so use this info only as a starting point. \r\n \r\nAs you can see there are way more I/Os required than the kanalog can handle on its own. Originally I was going to buy a Konnect expansion board which has 32 inputs and 16 outputs and make my own circuit board that would interface to the FET relay drivers and the 8 inputs and 8 outputs found on the 40 pin IDC header on the Kanalog. However I decided to scrap that idea and just go with 2 Konnects. This will get me 64 optically isolated inputs and 32 optically isolated outputs plus the 8 opto inputs and 8 opto outputs on the Kanalog. That should be more than enough to handle all the I/Os for my machine. \r\n \r\nI also bought some computer parts and put together a PC to act as the front end of the cnc controller. It\'s a mini-itx motherboard with an i3 4150, 2GB ram and a 60GB SSD. I mounted it to an open air chassis as it would be pointless to put it in a standard computer case since this is going to be inside the electrical cabinet anyways. The PC is going to be used just for KmotionCNC so 2GB is plenty. The SSD allows for extremely quick bootup times; Less than 15 seconds from hitting the power button to having KmotionCNC ready to go. The i3 is overkill for this task and probably could have gone away with a Celeron but hey... what the hell. \r\n \r\nAs mentioned before the machine is currently equipped with resolvers for position feedback. Although it is possible to use resolvers with the Kflop and Kanalog its not an easy implementation so I went ahead and purchased some encoders. The encoders I got are 20,000 PPR 3 channel encoders; 2 quadrature channels and an index channel. I\'ll be using the index channel for homing the axes with maximum accuracy. The ballscrews on the machine have a pitch of 10mm so that\'ll equate to 50,800 pulses per inch which will give me a resolution of 0.0000197 inches. At these high encoder counts maximum frequency may be an issue. The maximum frequency for the encoders I have is 250kHz. This frequency applies to cycles rather than pulses. The encoders will be attached directly to the ballscrews and the fastest they spin at is 2000rpm. That\'ll equate to 167kHz which is well within allowable numbers. Also the Kflop\'s maximum input frequency for encoders is 1Mhz. However I am not sure if that is pulses per second or cycles per second but regardless I am still well within the margins. \r\n \r\n(20,000 pulses / rev) / (10mm / rev) * (25.4mm / inch) = 50,800 pulses per inch \r\n \r\n(2000 rev / min) / (60 sec / rev) * (5000 cycles / rev) = 166,667 cycles per second\r\n
\r\n Hi Thomas, \r\n \r\nI have just the same category mazak milling and follow with attention your tread considering I also want to retrofit the milling machine \r\nI would like to work with CS Lab materials and software Mach3, considering this is my first project, I have many questions about I / O settings because that is my hat too far. \r\nAlso have a mazak slant turn 40n / 1500 are seen to retrofit the backup battery is empty and all the machines parameters away \r\nAll info is welcome \r\n \r\nKinds regard \r\n \r\nFreddy from Belgium/ Europe \r\n \r\nPS the Mazak lathe, I have all mechanical, electrical diagrams and parameters : Banana:\r\n
\r\n Hey Freddy. Glad you\'re following along. Sorry I haven\'t been posting for the past couple of months. I have been getting kind of distracted from a bunch directions so things have been moving slowly but I have been making some progress. Unfortunately I won\'t be able to help you out with your Slant Turn. I am not familiar with that machine. However I will be able to help out with your Vertical Mill, especially if it\'s a VQC 15/40. \n \nIf you plan to use the existing servo amplifiers in the machine then you\'ll need some device to create the +/-10V to control them. If you\'re using Mach 3 with just the standard PC parallel port then that will only output step and direction signals which are incompatible with these older industrial amplifiers. You will need some sort of converter card, such as a YAPSC:10V, or a standalone controller such as a Kflop/Kanalog control board which can be interfaced to Mach3. \n \nYou will also need to swap out the resolvers out with quadrature encoders and wire them back to whatever is closing your position loop; whether it\'s the converter cards or a motion control board. From what I understand Mach 3 doesn\'t close the position loop but rather relies on servo drives to close the position loop however the servo amplifiers in these industrial machines do not close the position loop. \n \nCheck out this site to get a better idea of what you need/want to do. \n \nI personally chose the kflop + kanalog option because it gives you the ability to run the servos at high speeds even with hi-resolution encoders and easily interfaces to older amplifiers that use +/-10V analog inputs. The kflop also offers the reliability and speed of a standalone controller which offloads most of the processing from the PC allowing you to use a cheaper/slower computer. I also have 2 konnects that handle most of the inputs and outputs for the machine. \n \nIf there\'s specific questions you have then feel free to ask. I\'ll be happy to help in any way I can. \n \nI\'ll try to post some updates on my progress in the next couple of days.\r\n
\r\n Sorry for the delay in updates but a lot has been going on over here. I finally have some time to write about the project again. \r\n \r\nFor the controller I decided to buy an aluminum plate, machine it to size and mount the kflop/kanalog along with the konnect boards onto it. This allowed me to work on the local wiring without having to be huddled inside the cabinet. It made life much easier as there were well over 100 wires I needed to connect to the konnects and solder to the 50 pin connectors. I also installed some wiring duct around the boards to manage all the wires. On the left side of the plate I installed a couple of terminals to distribute low voltage power to the various systems. \r\n \r\nI purchase two power supplies, one 24v and one +/-12v. These are regulated power supplies that output clean voltage. I used these to power the tachs and the servo amplifiers. I wasn\'t sure how sensitive the tachs or amps are to noise so I just played it safe and set those up. I also have 12v, 5v and GND from the computer\'s PSU on the terminals along with the machine 24v/GND power supply. \r\n \r\nOn the right side of the plate I installed a 4 12v relay array as well as a single 24v relay. I\'ll go into more detail on what some of the relays do but they are involved with switching the power-on relay as well as handling the servo amps and spindle driver. \r\n \r\nBelow you\'ll see the controller mounted on the aluminum plate and then with the wire duct installed and finally the controller installed in the cabinet and all wired up. There\'s also a shot of the cabinet right after I took the old controller out.\r\n
\r\n I decided to replace the resolvers with high count encoders to make it easier to send position data back to the kflop. Unfortunately the hole where the resolvers mount into were to small so I either had to modify the encoders or the resolver mounts. Not knowing how much meat I had on the encoder case before hitting the bearing I opted to machine the resolver mounts to a larger diameter. \r\n \r\nMy initial approach was to mount the mount into a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe and indicate the inside diameter of the existing hole as well as the face to make sure it was parallel and concentric. This was a tedious process and took up most of the time. I also machined a small counter bore in case I ever needed to install an encoder with a smaller diameter. I could then just machine a simple flanged bushing and be done with it. The X and Y mounts were the same and was able to grab it in the chuck but the Z mount had a different base to it so it was not possible to grab in the chuck. \r\n \r\nFor the Z mount I decided to use the boring head on the bridgeport mill to enlarge the hole which actually worked out much better and was a lot easier to do. I first machined a plug on the lathe from aluminum. The small diameter of the plug was a common diameter I could put into one of the collets on the bridgeport. I think I used 3/4". The larger diameter of the plug was the diameter of the hole on the mount. I made sure to make this diameter as close as possible. I then fitted the plug into the 3/4" collet on the bridgeport. I then placed the Z mount on the table and lowered the quill until the plug was in the hole of the mount. I now know that the mount is perfectly concentric with the mill\'s spindle. I tightened up the hold down bolts and then lifted the quill up. I then put in the boring head and machined the hole to the right diameter. Although the machining process was a bit longer the whole process was much faster as the setup time was next to nothing. So looking back at it I would have opted to do all 3 mount on the bridgeport. \r\n \r\nAnother issue was the the bolt circle on the encoder case was slightly different than that on the mount so I ended up modifying the encoders so that the holes would line up. I also milled off one of the corners of the square flange on the encoders so that it would match up with the resolver configuration. For the Y axis it was not important but the X axis the corner would have interfered with the table\'s movement. \r\n \r\nThe electrical connectors on the encoders were different than that on the resolvers so I needed to purchase ones that would fit and then create adapters that would connect the Amphenol connectors to the flexible conduit. I found some used 90 degree elbow Amphenol connectors off of ebay that I needed for the X and Y encoders and found a straight connector that I needed for the Z. I made the adapters on the lathe from aluminum. \r\n \r\nThe original wiring that was going to the resolvers was not sufficient for the encoders. I needed 10 wires total but only had 6 (3 pairs) going to the resolvers. I ended up buying a long CAT5e ethernet cable and fishing it through the conduit to each encoder. I left 1 of the original pairs as is and because it was a heavier gauge I figured I would use that for supplying the power to the encoders. This gave me 4 twisted pairs for the encoder signals (1 pair for channel A, 1 pair for channel B, 1 pair for index channel and 1 pair was combined for the case shield) and 1 heavier pair for 5V and GND. \r\n \r\nPictured below is the original wiring for the resolver and the new wiring for the encoder. The aluminum plug that was used to center the Z mount on the bridgeport. The machining of the mounts as well as the conduit adapters. The last set of pictures show the encoders and mounts installed on the machine fully wired up and ready to go.\r\n
\r\n Hi! \r\nI really appreciate what you\'ve got with this machine! \r\nIt was nice and it works well as usual. \r\nI have a question for you. \r\nI would like to buy such a machine. The seller wrote that ( Maschine hat Fehlercode 55X Servo... , Machine has error code 55X servo ) this error message is. \r\nWhat is this, what\'s wrong with the machine? \r\nThank you very much for your response. \r\nSincerely Yours Mihály\r\n
\r\n Hello Thomas \r\n \r\nI just gunk same machine, chimps and dirt everywhere ... \r\nThe previous owner knew everything except his machine cleaning and maintenance. \r\n \r\nNow I have a big problem with the machine to move, I have damaged the tacho plug of the servo motor X axis. (with the pins of the truck) \r\nAll wires are pulled loose from the connector and now I do not know what color the wires which should be welded. \r\n \r\nI think it\'s a 6 or 7 wires, black, gray, etc. (it is not the encoder!) On a connector male placed correctly with 4 screws. \r\n \r\nCan you see what is the correct connection is. \r\n \r\nThanks in advance, \r\n \r\nI will post a picture for clarification. \r\n \r\nGreetings \r\nFredMazak\r\n
\r\n A picture will help. Problem is that on my tacho wiring setup it was 3 pairs of shielded wires. Each pair has a red and white wire so there are 3 red and 3 white wires total (essentially the same way the resolver was wired pictured above) so knowing which wire goes where is not possible simply by looking at the colors. There is a 7th wire (blue) which connects the wire shielding to the case of the tachogenerator. Is each of your wires labelled or are they all just different colors? Also take a picture of the sticker on the tachogenerator to make sure we have the same units that way the information that I\'ll give you is right for your situation.\r\n
\r\n Unfortunately the Mazak wiring diagrams did not include the internal connections between the controller and the servo amps. Luckily I found this thread...77549 Mitsubishi TRA41 Servo Drives Interface Help Please \r\nThis worked perfectly for my TRA31 servo amps. I do have to mention that there is a typo in the spreadsheet. PX GD is correctly labeled as Tac GND feedback signal. This is the ground to the tachogenerator. PX* is incorrectly labeled as Tac GND feedback Signal. This is actually the Tac feedback signal and this is where the feedback from the tac is connected to. \r\n \r\nThe SV On input from each amplifier is wired to a 24v relay. When the relay is energized it pulls the inputs to GND and turns on the servo amps. The relay is energized by the EStop signal. When no E-Stop buttons are pushed then the E-Stop signal is high at 24v thus energizing the relay. When an E-Stop button is pushed the circuit opens and the servo amps shut down. \r\n \r\nI originally planned on connecting the NC Ready inputs from all three amplifiers to one of the 12v relays and switching it on using the watchdog relay driver on the Kanalog board. I instead wired each axis to its own relay driver. This works because the relay drivers pull down to GND when activated and that is what the NC Ready inputs need. This allows me to switch on each amplifier individually. This makes things a lot easier especially during the initial setup. When the analog input on the amplifier is left floating the servo tends to drift as 0v doesn\'t perfectly correspond to 0 speed on the servo. When disabling a servo for a particular axis in Kmotion the axis will begin to drift because the loop is no longer closed and the analog output is set at 0v. By connecting each amplifier\'s NC Ready input to its own relay driver this allows me to fully disable the axis so that it no longer moves. This also allows me to turn on each servo amp individually for tuning purposes rather than having all three on at the same time. \r\n \r\nEven though there are several ground connections to the amplifier they are all ultimately connected to each other either on the amplifier side or on the controller side so you need not worry about having isolated grounds or power supplies. Also, by having a common ground allows you to use the relay drivers on the Kanalog to switch the NC Ready inputs.\r\n
\r\n can you give me how you wiring kflop- k analog , now I am retrofit Mazak m4. I need to use old spindle and drive TRA41 and motor. I need some advice how to wiring them \r\n \r\nThank\r\n
\r\n Thomas, I have a VQC 15/40 spindle that I want to use in a CNC mill I\'m building. I have the drawbar for it but not the pull stud gripper assembly. Would it be possible for you to take a few photos of it? I would really appreciate it.\r\n
\r\n How is the retrofit ? No i have the same story , one day over a action i sow a mazak 20/40 and i got it . It will arive next week . If its working state i will just clean it and paint some of the parts . If not i will retrofit it with EMC2.\r\n
\r\n Sorry for being MIA. I\'m on the home stretch with finishing the project. I have painted all the panels and the machine and will be reassembling the machine soon. A lot has happened since the last post and will update you guys in the next day or so (Hopefully!). \n \nPetruscad: I had to rebuild the spindle due to bad bearings so I had the whole thing apart but it is all assembled now. Luckily I acquired a spindle from a different VQC 15/40 for spare parts and have a draw bar on hand to photograph. I\'ll put it together tomorrow and take some photos. \n \nAventtini888: Retrofit is good. The kflop is a very nice controller and am pretty happy with it so far. I really like how you have very few limitations with the controller, so long as you know a little C programming. I went the same route as you as taking it apart and painting all the panels but in retrospect it probably was too much trouble than it\'s worth in my opinion unless you have all the equipment and the setup to do this sort of painting. Retrofitting is nice if you plan on doing complex 3D work as programs can get very large as the older controllers have tiny memory capacity. \n \nLet me know if you guys need any other info. I\'ll try to get back to you a little quicker this time. Promise!\r\n
\r\n Originally Posted by Thomas Zamirski\r\n \r\n
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Petruscad: I had to rebuild the spindle due to bad bearings so I had the whole thing apart but it is all assembled now. Luckily I acquired a spindle from a different VQC 15/40 for spare parts and have a draw bar on hand to photograph. I\'ll put it together tomorrow and take some photos.
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Thank you very much man, this will really help me!\r\n
\r\n Pictured below is the spindle drawbar without the belleville spring washers installed. The belleville washers it requires are 20.4mm x 40mm x 2.5mm, 24 sets (48 total). The washers are doubled up so they are stacked 2 in one direction and 2 in the other, alternating all the way up. \n \nHere\'s a place you can get the spring washers from: CDM-402010 - DISC SPRING (CDM Series) - Part Characteristics | Century Spring Corp. \n \nInside the sleeve (large cylindrical part at the end of the drawbar) there are two collet fingers which grab onto the pull stud of the tool. On the opposite end is the fork bracket which is what the hydraulic piston pushes against to release the tool. \n \nMazak part numbers: \n \nSleeve: 24240148590 (qty 1) \nCollet: 24240148601 (not sure if this is sold as a set or individually. Need 2 of them) \nCollet Nut: 34240148611 (qty 1) \nRod: 24240148571 (qty 1) \nBracket: 34240148621 (qty 1) \nSocket head cap screw m6x50: A06CB060500 (qty 2) \nBelleville Spring Washer set: 34240148580\r\n
\r\n Hi Thomas, \n \nAwesome build thread. Would love to see the mill with fresh paint, please keep the pics coming \nBeen looking at KFLOP, if it ends up working well for a machine this size, that would be a big plus for the controller \n \nCheers \nFrank\r\n
\r\n Mill has been up and running for a few months now but I\'ve been way too busy to post all of the things I\'ve wanted to but I\'ll post some quick photos of the machine mostly assembled as well as a couple of videos of it in action. \r\n \r\nMachine getting ready to be painted: \r\nAttachment 282322 \r\nAttachment 282324 \r\nAttachment 282326 \r\n \r\nMachine Painted and assembled: \r\nAttachment 282328 \r\nAttachment 282330 \r\nAttachment 282332 \r\nAttachment 282334 \r\nAttachment 282336 \r\nAttachment 282338 \r\nAttachment 282340 \r\nAttachment 282342 \r\nAttachment 282344 \r\nAttachment 282346 \r\nAttachment 282348 \r\n \r\nThe white paint on the inside is Imron. Really good chemical resistance and easy to clean. The matte black and grey exterior paint is car paint from Eastwood (rat rod black and rat rod grey). It\'s a single stage, two part urethane paint which is also chemical resistant and really durable. Because it\'s not glossy like the Imron paint it is slightly harder to clean but if sprayed correctly it\'s actually pretty easy to clean. I also used some Rustoleum appliance enamel for a few small parts for the interior as I ran out of Imron. The color matched pretty well. The paint seems to be holding up ok but has greatly discolored to a cream color, probably caused by the coolant. Not a big deal to me as long as it protects the metal from the coolant. I still have to implement some sort of control interface. I\'m currently just using the software GUI, the MPG and axis selector switch. \r\n \r\nHere\'s a video of the machine cutting some soft jaws: \r\nhttps://youtu.be/P6WW6UIwKJU \r\n \r\nHere\'s a video of the machine performing a pallet change: \r\nhttps://youtu.be/LSKeqhQpkdQ \r\n \r\nHere\'s a video of a tool change test while all the covers were still off. Gives you a better look at how the tool changer works: \r\nhttps://youtu.be/RxYmajHgIuc \r\n \r\nHere\'s a video of a rigid tap test: \r\nhttps://youtu.be/yktBL1mhZFY \r\n \r\nIf you\'re interested I did a write up on how I implemented the rigid tap in kmotioncnc/kflop here: http://www.cnczone.com/siemens/forums/dynomo...ml#post1688960 \r\n \r\nI left out a lot of details, the biggest being the spindle rebuild. I had to replace the bearings and then I turned the taper to bring it back into concentricity. Maybe I\'ll put together a video sometime and post it here.\r\n
\r\n Very nice work! Thats a rather unusual mill. It must be very ridged but the work area looks rather small. How do you find the Kmotion interface? Im considering using it with my build\r\n
Dude that is ****in incredible, excuse my language but I am just blown away at what you have accomplished. Very inspiring.
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Thanks Chevy! Glad you like the machine. \r\n \r\n
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\r\n Originally Posted by Feist92\r\n \r\n
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Very nice work! Thats a rather unusual mill. It must be very ridged but the work area looks rather small. How do you find the Kmotion interface? Im considering using it with my build
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Thanks Feist. It is an unusual layout for a mill. It has a rigid design but the big downside is you can\'t have anything overhanging the table because it\'ll slam into one of the columns that support the bridge. This sort of limits to what you can put on the table. Typically you can put on a bunch of vises on a ram type mill and not worry about part of them hanging off the edge of the table. Here you have to stay conscious of that. \r\n \r\nThe Kmotioncnc interface isn\'t the prettiest thing out there but it definitely gets the job done. It\'s stable, fast and the trajectory planner is pretty good, better than mach\'s. If you know a little C programming then you won\'t have any trouble getting your machine to do what you want it to do. Definitely recommend it if you\'re looking to retrofit on a budget and you have some time to tinker around.\r\n
\r\n A member asked for instructions on how to tear down the spindle and get to the drawbar so I figured I\'d make a post here that way if anyone else needs to know how it\'s done they can benefit from it as well. \r\n \r\nStep 1: Remove the lower spindle cover. \r\n \r\nThis cover is on two hinges on the side closest to the operator. On the far side of the spindle there are two screws which hold the cover shut. Unscrewing these screws allows the cover to swing open. On the bottom of that cover there are two screws which hold the coolant manifold in place. Unscrew those two screws to free the manifold. Unplug the wires that connect to the lamp. Now an extra set of hands will make this part easier. Have someone hold the cover, taking pressure off of the hinges. Use and thin, long object to push out the pins in the hinges. Once the pins are out the cover can be moved out of the way. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282528 \r\nAttachment 282530 \r\n \r\n \r\nStep 2: Separate the two spindle shafts. \r\n \r\nFirst you need to remove the black bracket under the hydraulic unclamping cylinder to give you enough room the get an allen wrench onto the screws that are holding the two shafts together. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282532 \r\n \r\n \r\nStep 3: Remove the spindle cartridge \r\n \r\nFirst unscrew the screws holding the spindle cartridge in place. Once unscrewed the cartridge should remain in the spindle assembly by friction alone. I recommend putting some wood blocks underneath in case it just falls out but chances are it will sit in there. You will need to use 2 M10 screws to jack the spindle out little by little. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282534 \r\n \r\nKeep in mind that the perimeter of the spindle cartridge is cooled with cooling oil so have an oil pan on your machine table to catch the oil that will come pouring out. Once you let all the oil drain you can continue onward with pulling the cartridge out. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282536 \r\nAttachment 282538 \r\n \r\nYou can now do what you need to do to the spindle cartridge. The drawbar is easy to get to. It is held in place by the friction of an oring so all you have to do is pull on the fork to get it out. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282540 \r\n \r\nIf your spindle is not clamping the tool properly then it could be one of the following. The hydraulic clamping cylinder is not returning to the clamp position (towards the top). The hydraulic cylinder does not do the actual clamping. It only unclamps the tool. The belleville washer springs are what actually provide the force for clamping the tool. The washer springs could be fatigued and no longer provide the proper force so they would need to be replaced. One or both of the pull stud fingers may be broken. \r\n \r\nDrawbar assembly pictured below without the belleville washers installed. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282542 \r\nAttachment 282544 \r\n \r\nAfter unscrewing the collet finger nut the nut should slide out and then the fingers can be pulled out individually and now you have access to the belleville washer springs. \r\n \r\nDo all the repairs you need and then reassemble the spindle in reverse order. One thing I recommend you do when putting the spindle cartridge back in the spindle is to use a car jack to push it back into position. Also make sure that the keys on the lower spindle shaft line up with the keyways on the upper spindle shaft when you are jacking the cartridge back into place. If they are not lined up and you jack up the cartridge into the upper shaft it will shift the upper bearing or bearings (depending on if you have a 6000rpm spindle or 10000 rpm spindle) and could cause some damage. \r\n \r\nHope this helps and if you have any questions feel free to ask.\r\n
\r\n Originally Posted by Thomas Zamirski\r\n \r\n
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A member asked for instructions on how to tear down the spindle and get to the drawbar so I figured I\'d make a post here that way if anyone else needs to know how it\'s done they can benefit from it as well. \r\n \r\nStep 1: Remove the lower spindle cover. \r\n \r\nThis cover is on two hinges on the side closest to the operator. On the far side of the spindle there are two screws which hold the cover shut. Unscrewing these screws allows the cover to swing open. On the bottom of that cover there are two screws which hold the coolant manifold in place. Unscrew those two screws to free the manifold. Unplug the wires that connect to the lamp. Now an extra set of hands will make this part easier. Have someone hold the cover, taking pressure off of the hinges. Use and thin, long object to push out the pins in the hinges. Once the pins are out the cover can be moved out of the way. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282528 \r\nAttachment 282530 \r\n \r\n \r\nStep 2: Separate the two spindle shafts. \r\n \r\nFirst you need to remove the black bracket under the hydraulic unclamping cylinder to give you enough room the get an allen wrench onto the screws that are holding the two shafts together. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282532 \r\n \r\n \r\nStep 3: Remove the spindle cartridge \r\n \r\nFirst unscrew the screws holding the spindle cartridge in place. Once unscrewed the cartridge should remain in the spindle assembly by friction alone. I recommend putting some wood blocks underneath in case it just falls out but chances are it will sit in there. You will need to use 2 M10 screws to jack the spindle out little by little. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282534 \r\n \r\nKeep in mind that the perimeter of the spindle cartridge is cooled with cooling oil so have an oil pan on your machine table to catch the oil that will come pouring out. Once you let all the oil drain you can continue onward with pulling the cartridge out. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282536 \r\nAttachment 282538 \r\n \r\nYou can now do what you need to do to the spindle cartridge. The drawbar is easy to get to. It is held in place by the friction of an oring so all you have to do is pull on the fork to get it out. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282540 \r\n \r\nIf your spindle is not clamping the tool properly then it could be one of the following. The hydraulic clamping cylinder is not returning to the clamp position (towards the top). The hydraulic cylinder does not do the actual clamping. It only unclamps the tool. The belleville washer springs are what actually provide the force for clamping the tool. The washer springs could be fatigued and no longer provide the proper force so they would need to be replaced. One or both of the pull stud fingers may be broken. \r\n \r\nDrawbar assembly pictured below without the belleville washers installed. \r\n \r\nAttachment 282542 \r\nAttachment 282544 \r\n \r\nAfter unscrewing the collet finger nut the nut should slide out and then the fingers can be pulled out individually and now you have access to the belleville washer springs. \r\n \r\nDo all the repairs you need and then reassemble the spindle in reverse order. One thing I recommend you do when putting the spindle cartridge back in the spindle is to use a car jack to push it back into position. Also make sure that the keys on the lower spindle shaft line up with the keyways on the upper spindle shaft when you are jacking the cartridge back into place. If they are not lined up and you jack up the cartridge into the upper shaft it will shift the upper bearing or bearings (depending on if you have a 6000rpm spindle or 10000 rpm spindle) and could cause some damage. \r\n \r\nHope this helps and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
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Great job, and you made a excellent record. \r\nWe also did Mazak VQC 20/40B few years back.\r\n
\r\n pl share images of whole mazak vqc 15/40 parts during retrofitting and pl share mechanical manual of mazak vqc 15/40 if available and send it to "[email protected]"\r\n
\r\n Wow, we used to have one of those without the pallet changer. Not sure where it went, but it still looked brand new. Probably didn\'t have 1000 cutting hours.\r\n
\r\n Hello Thomas, \r\n \r\nI did purchase from UK a used Mazak VQC 15/40 manufactured in 1989 with M32 NC, no pallet changer. \r\nI did disassembly it and clean each part because it was a mess, very close to your pictures. Did not paint it yet, only purchased the polyurethane paint and I did not install the protections on it because I decided to start it after the cleaning processes. \r\nI have the same Mazak machine with a small difference, I got the version with AC servo that use MR-S amplifiers and 5000PPR encoders on both motors and ball screws. \r\nUnfortunately the axis amplifiers cannot be used with analog input, they only connect to FC335M using bus link . \r\nBoth motor encoders and ball screw encoders are connected to the amplifier. Amplifiers close the loop with add on card RF31C. \r\n \r\nAfter starting up the machine I had problems with the initialization procedure because the NEC floppy unit was not functional. I was able to replicate the System disk and DNC Option disk using Omniflop and create some USB images. I also did purchase a FLOPPY emulator at this phase. \r\nThe intention was to test first the machine and to see how M32 looks. I was reluctant and scared of servos replacing idea. \r\nReinitialize the M32 controller and again got an error (different from the first one), the second is a parity error message and a CPU_B DOWN error. I did purchase MC111, MC121, MC427 etc from eBay and start again. The same error, Parity Error , Error at or near $00780DCA \r\nCPU_B DOWN. \r\nAt this point I decided to contact Mazak representative in my country, register the machine and got no response until today (one month waist). \r\n \r\nSo my next step would be to remove the NC controller. \r\nI have two option to use MR-J2S-70A with HCUSF73 servos (I have them already from a future project of a rotational axis) or use a generic amplifier Argon (ordered already from granitedevices) from www.garnitedevices.com with the HA83 servos. \r\n \r\nUntil now we did use Linuxcnc on our CNC machines so we are familiar with Axis interface. We did had some problems with Mesa regarding grounding in the past because of poor grounding points. \r\n \r\nHow is your experience with Kflop/Kanalog/KConect until now? It was easy to program the tool magazine? \r\n \r\nThank you, \r\nRazvan\r\n
\r\n Hey Razvan, \n \nSeems like you have a lot going on. Overall the kflop is pretty good with only a few issues. I do on occasion have the konnects fault out and need to be reinitialized but that is due to a bad cable connector and that only happens about once a month. Also on rare occasions, while running g-code and a custom user program is encountered, like during an m code or S word, the program will hang for several seconds and then continues as normal. \n \nSomething you should take into account is that the controller can only perform coordinated motion with 2nd order motion. This makes the jerk infinite and produces a harsh thump when an axis is accelerating if the acceleration isn\'t set quite low. For a machine the size of the VQC the acceleration has to be set quite low because of the inertia otherwise you will induce a lot of stress on the screws and bearings. \n \nOther than those issues the kflop and it\'s peripherals are great. It\'s easy to customize and program, especially if you\'re familiar to C programming. If not it\'s still pretty easy because there are a ton of sample programs included with the software which can easily be customized to suit your needs. \n \nThe tool changer was very easy to program. The machine I have uses the hydraulic motor which spins the carousel via a geneva cam. Some of the newer VQCs used servo motors which made indexing the carousel to a non-sequential tool much faster. This would require you to interface to its servo amplifier just like any other axis but should still be pretty straight forward. \n \n-Tom\r\n
\r\n Hello Thomas \r\nMy machine had MR-S AC servos instead of brushed DC servo that you have. MR-S AC servo does not have analog controls, driver can be interfaced only with Meldas NC Controller. \r\nI did replace the MR-S servo pack with MR-J2S , 750W ac servo pack. The HC-USF73 had the same flange so no modification was necessary. Only new pulleys because older had taper shaft. \r\nI did install LinuxCNC and Mesa 7I77 board and 7I85S for extra encoders . \r\nHow did you setup the limits, the machine has a trapezoidal limit dog. \r\nCan you tell me what type are the oil sensors? The spindle chiller is a pressure sensor or temperature sensor ? The hydraulic pump for the ATC motor is a pressure sensor? \r\nWhat encoder input signal did you use as feedback device for Kflop? Did you split the spindle encoder to Kflop and FR-S driver? \r\nI do not have the electrical wiring of the machine so I only have to go on each wire. Can you share the wiring diagram, l will pay for it. Will help a lot, because finding each wire will eat my time. \r\n \r\nThank you, \r\nRazvan\r\n
\r\n Thomas, \r\n \r\nI have a couple more questions about the spindle which you probably could answer from the top of your head. \r\n \r\n1. To release the tool, the drawbar pushed down by a hydraulic cylinder. Does the force end up applied on the spindle\'s bearings as well or is there some sort of mechanism that pushed the drawbar down without pushing on the shaft of the spindle and the bearings as well? \r\n \r\n2. What\'s the clamping force of the spindle? \r\n \r\nBtw, you\'ve made a heck of progress from the slimy state the mill was in to the clean. painted and working state its now in !!! \r\n \r\nThanks, Dumitru.\r\n
1. To release the tool, the drawbar pushed down by a hydraulic cylinder. Does the force end up applied on the spindle\'s bearings as well or is there some sort of mechanism that pushed the drawbar down without pushing on the shaft of the spindle and the bearings as well? \n \n2. What\'s the clamping force of the spindle?
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Hi Dumitru, \n \nSorry for the slow response. Haven\'t been on in a while. \n \nThe hydraulic cylinder pushes down on the fork end of the draw bar. This pushes down on the top of the spring stack. The bottom of the spring stack sits on the top of the collet sleeve. The bottom of the collet sleeve sits up against a shoulder inside the spindle. So yes, the spindle bearings do see the full force of the hydraulic cylinder during unclamping. In this scenario it is the top two spindle bearings that see the force of the unclamping. The bottom two (nearest the tool taper) are unaffected. \n \nAs for the clamping force I am not sure. I would imagine it is the standard cat40 clamping force. According to THIS SITE the suggested drawbar pull force for a cat40 should be 2300lbs \n \nHope this helps. \n \n-Tom\r\n
\r\n Hello \n \nCan you email me? i got a VQC like this from 1990 - i got some servo drive problems maybe you can help me with \n \nmy email is vohnsen AT gmail.com\r\n
I just gunk same machine, chimps and dirt everywhere ...
The previous owner knew everything except his machine cleaning and maintenance.
Now I have a big problem with the machine to move, I have damaged the tacho plug of the servo motor X axis. (with the pins of the truck)
All wires are pulled loose from the connector and now I do not know what color the wires which should be welded.
I think it's a 6 or 7 wires, black, gray, etc. (it is not the encoder!) On a connector male placed correctly with 4 screws.
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Originally Posted by Thomas Zamirski\r\n 
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