[CROSSHATCH]

Hey everyone, I posted back some time ago about the proximity switches and or lack thereof. On my machine, they are sporadic (faulting) and overall, I refuse to use them but that's not to say I wouldn't want them if I could get something better installed.

I have not crashed my machine since it's been in operation, having said that...I would like to have the Mach3 Soft Limits enabled from now despite my good fortunes.

Today, I am going to disable the home switches in the Mach3 config and position my table to a suitable location, set the Machine Cord. to 0 and apply my Soft Limits and be done with it.

That is until I upgrade the current proxy switches. Has anyone used these AutomationDirect Lever Switches? They look reasonably priced and appear to be resin filled giving them a waterproof design. Mounting won't be an issue with 3D printing and or machining possibilities.


AEM2G41Z11-3 | 1 N.O./1 N.C. limit switch - lever with 14mm nylon roller actuator


For now I will disable the Home Switches and manually input my WC Zero locations and use the Soft Limits until I get these wired up. I will be using the existing cables that are currently connected to the Proximity switches.

Regards all,

-Jason

[engnerdan]

Check out this post I made a while back.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/novako...tch-ideas.html

I bought a couple of the switches you have a link to. They seem to be be fine units. Made in Italy if I remember correctly. I have not incorporated them in my mill yet. I was hoping to place the X axis switch under the table on the saddle and the Y axis switch under the saddle on the base. But I have not figured out a way to do this yet.

-Dan

[CROSSHATCH]

Check out this post I made a while back.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/novako...tch-ideas.html

I bought a couple of the switches you have a link to. They seem to be be fine units. Made in Italy if I remember correctly. I have not incorporated them in my mill yet. I was hoping to place the X axis switch under the table on the saddle and the Y axis switch under the saddle on the base. But I have not figured out a way to do this yet.

-Dan

Hey Dan,

I got inspired by your thread so I read through it a couple of times. I'm most likely going to mount them close to the stock set-up and just add some protection from normal chip build up. Otherwise, I think they will do fine.



PS. Disconnected my switches and finally got the limits too work (soft limits).


-Jason

[G59]

You won't regret making the switch over to mechanical switches. I never liked the idea of proximity switches on machine that cut steel and throw chips everywhere.
I guess they tried reinventing the wheel? LOL

[kvom]

I'm not sure mach3 allows you to zero the machine coords, or at least I've never figured out how to do it without using the ref button. Obviously you can position the axes and then restart mach.

The issue with the lever switch will be how repeatable it is if you want to relay on repeatable positions across restarts.

[G59]

The issue with the lever switch will be how repeatable it is if you want to relay on repeatable positions across restarts.

I don't know about that particular switch he has picked out, but I can tell you with certainty, if its a quality switch, it would be just as good or better than the proximity sensor.
All our machines use ABB roller/plunger switches and repeatability is always spot on.

Looking at the old mill I have, it also uses sealed roller/plunger switches.
Proximity switches were implemented as a simpler and a less costly solution to repeatable positioning. They fail just like mechanical switches do.

[Bubba]

Hi,
I used the AAP2T41Z11 switches from the same source and have been using them for the past 15 years or so. They appear similar to the ones you spec an are much cheaper. They do not have the attached cord but I fitted mine with PVC tubing siliconed into the body and pulled the wires. The repeatability has been excellent.

Good luck with your installation.

[CROSSHATCH]

The switches from AutomationDirect have a repeat accuracy of .0019". There are better ones but these look pretty reasonable for what they offer.

I unplugged my current switches and I believe I was using the "Ref All" to zero the machine coordinates, I don't think I was able to individually do each axis separate.


I'll look at some of the other suggestions and input is wanted.

Regards,

Jason

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I'm not sure mach3 allows you to zero the machine coords, or at least I've never figured out how to do it without using the ref button. Obviously you can position the axes and then restart mach.

The issue with the lever switch will be how repeatable it is if you want to relay on repeatable positions across restarts.

Mach3 absolutely allows zeroing home position, using the same functions used in the RefAllHome button script.

Regards,
Ray L.

[kvom]

I'm using standard screenset and scripts. Haven't found a button to zero machine coords, but clearly the internals must allow it.

The proximity switch on my Z axis has failed, so I don't use the refAll since I don't want a crash.

But doing 1-off small parts that's not critical for me.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I'm using standard screenset and scripts. Haven't found a button to zero machine coords, but clearly the internals must allow it.

The proximity switch on my Z axis has failed, so I don't use the refAll since I don't want a crash.

But doing 1-off small parts that's not critical for me.

Go to Operator->ButtonScripts. When things start blinking, click on the RefAllHome button, and it will open an editor window showing you the button script that executes when that button is clicked. That script does the Ref on all the axes. If you have no home switches defined, it will set home to whatever the current machine position is. There are likely other functions for manipulating home positions, but I haven't used Mach3 in many years, so don't recall what they are. They are all documented in the Mach Macro Programmers Reference Manual (which I wrote years ago), and the list of "OEM codes" in the Documentation section of the ArtSoft website.

Regards,
Ray L.

[kvom]

Thanks Ray. I'll take a look.

[CROSSHATCH]

Does anyone know the thread dimensions for the conduit cables of the stock proximity switch? I won't be using the stock steel brackets but the cable sleeve has nice fittings actually throughout the machine. Was wondering if anyone knew the thread size without have to do trial and error...

Thanks all,

-Jason

[engnerdan]

It depends on the conduit connection. I think at the sheet metal bracket mine at like 3/8 NPT (at least it looks like it). I know it is smaller than 1/2 NPT. At the connection to the cast iron bracket on the back of the mill column it is like a 16 or 18mm straight thread.

-Dan

[CROSSHATCH]

Thanks Dan,

I'll take a look at them more in depth this weekend since I unplugged them from my system. The switches from Automation Direct have 3' of wire already molded into the body of the switch. I'll probably just under size a print (cover/bracket) for when I make the switch enclosures and have an interference fit right into the plastic, no need to know exact thread now...

-Jason

[CROSSHATCH]

So I am finally close to purchasing some switches as I found these that have better repeat-ability.

ABM1E13Z11 | Limit switch SS plunger w/ roller & (1) PG13.5 entry, 1 N.O. 1 N.C.

Or the cheaper ones: These are the same except the price and they don't have a "roller". I kind of thought about a direct plunger motion anyway so maybe the cheaper ones will be find.

ABM1E11Z11 | Limit switch SS plunger w/ (1) PG13.5 cable entry & 1 N.O. 1 N.C



Anyone used these switches or have concerns?

-Jason

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I would want the ones with the roller, to ensure little wear. I can't see how the others would not wear over time, and change position. Personally, I prefer electronic switches, as they are easier to make impervious to coolant, and should, properly designed, be more accurate than any mechanical switch. The stock inductive prox switches work well, their only problem being that they are accessible to chips, which can cause false triggers. Newer machines have re-designed mechanical parts that, presumably, eliminate this problem. I also think mounting those large mechanical switches will be challenge.

Regards,
Ray L.

[CROSSHATCH]

I would want the ones with the roller, to ensure little wear. I can't see how the others would not wear over time, and change position. Personally, I prefer electronic switches, as they are easier to make impervious to coolant, and should, properly designed, be more accurate than any mechanical switch. The stock inductive prox switches work well, their only problem being that they are accessible to chips, which can cause false triggers. Newer machines have re-designed mechanical parts that, presumably, eliminate this problem. I also think mounting those large mechanical switches will be challenge.

Regards,
Ray L.

I agree with what you said but I'm not sure why mounting would be an issue. I have access to 3D Printers and my mill to make any brackets needed. Maybe I just need to look at the Prox switches though I have had many cases where they just seem to be unresponsive so I simply unplugged them from the BOB. However, I would like to home again so that I can set my softwjaw positioning and not index every time I zero the DRO's.

I guess I will continue to sleep on this one.

-Jason

[G59]

I guess I will continue to sleep on this one.

Dirty proximity switches = trouble down the road. Maybe they are just out of adjustment?

I'm just now testing the cheap SN04- P proxi switches and amazingly they are repeatable to 0.0002".
Pretty good precision for something so cheap.

Yes they are from China, but the electronics are really basic anyways. NC PNP.

[CROSSHATCH]

Dirty proximity switches = trouble down the road. Maybe they are just out of adjustment?

I'm just now testing the cheap SN04- P proxi switches and amazingly they are repeatable to 0.0002".
Pretty good precision for something so cheap.

Yes they are from China, but the electronics are really basic anyways. NC PNP.

Might have to look into home differently now and keep my options open. It would be nice to home again though and go to my pre-defined coordinates.

-Jason