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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    753

    molding basics

    What is the best way to learn about molds? I am in a machining school that teaches about cnc and manual machining but really nothing about molds. I have also leanred a little about edm molds and been on a tour through a couple of mold shops. But what is the best way to learn more about molds?

    Please help
    I tried this before but no results

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1810
    Exactly what do you want to mold?

    I think the process is basically extremely simple but the processes to achieve the mold are determined by the complexity of the part and the materials to be molded (Plastic, plaster, etc.).

    Molds to make boats or bathtubs from composites are relatively easy - in this case, the model is the tricky part - the mold is made from a model (not always but let's keep this simple). Molds to injection mold plastics or urethanes can get tricky depending on the part and the properties of the material.

    Is there a specific mold you wish to investigate?

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    753
    specific mold. Not really anything specific right now. I have some things in mind. But I would be willing to do anything to start learning.

    I would like to learn about plastic and composite molds. Really mainly composites right now. Are the two much different in molding?

    Thanks for the help so far

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2337
    You have asked a "How long is a piece of sting" question.

    Do you want to cast concrete, plastic, resins, iron, alum, pressure filled, vacuum filled, rotational hollow casting, positive casting, negative casting, lost wax, etc.

    If you have a specific item let us know and I am sure we could point you in the right direction.

    I have done a little with concrete and pourable resin moulding, I do know some other methods too.

    Maybe you dont want to tell us what it is you have in mind, but i am sure you can give us a rough idea without any of us stealing your good idea

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    753
    I would most likely be intersted in learning how to do composite (fiberglass/carbon fiber) and plastic molds.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    753
    I researched it deeper. I would like to learn how to do vacuum bagging technique

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    753
    and maye some resin transfer molds

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    2337

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    753
    Quote Originally Posted by ynneb
    thanks do you go on any messenging service? AIM or YAHOO?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    590
    Quote Originally Posted by MBG
    and maye some resin transfer molds
    grpguru.com If you're serious check out their DVD.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    753
    I found out that what I really want to do. I belive the process is vacuum bagging.

    ocnc I will check it out

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1810
    Plenty of experience (from a few years ago - not currently into that area).

    What questions do you have? SCRIMP is pretty straightforward and simple but it's also kind of a pain in the butt. The hardest part is getting the bagging film in position without pinholes, tears or punctures. I would recommend using a Nylon bagging film if it is compatable with your resin. You can find Nylon bagging film that can stretch up to 400%.

    If you are making small runs of highly stressed parts, or parts that need to look smooth on both sides, like a rotor blade, you need vacuum bagging otherwise it is just an option. It has added expenses such as bagging film, vacuum source, seperation vessel, sealing tape, fittings and hoses. It takes a few casts to get it down correctly and you can waste resin if it's not done well.

    I, personally, don't really care for vacuum bagging but some parts and budgets leave no real alternative. Plan on scrapping the first three or four parts until you get the timing, catalist mix and the vacuum port position correct. If you release the vacuum too late, you can suck the resin right out of the filiments in that local area near the port. Too early and you don't fill out the part. It's almost an art to get things right consistently, but it's an art you can teach yourself, I guess, it just may take a few parts to get it right. if they are big parts then it could get expensive really quick.

    There are so many methods and each method of composite manufacture has it's merits. There is usually one method that will stand out for each particular project.

    ?? - fire away!

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    181
    I didn't read all replys but you could check there :
    http://www.scudc.scu.edu/cmdoc/dg_do...g/index_sp.htm

    Hope it help

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35494
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    600
    MGB, I'm on holidays at a place in Spain that is completely opposite to where I usually live but if you shoot me a pm I'll send you a list of links relating to this subject within the week.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    439
    Quote Originally Posted by OCNC
    grpguru.com If you're serious check out their DVD.

    I didn't see anything about the dvd on thier website , do you know how much it is?

    Im hoping the dvd is more in my price range 1,500 for 5 days of training is a little much for me.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    753
    thanks guys for all your help I just got hired by a mould shop to work there. I will be doing the mills and lathes (manual) right now. I am excited. I hope to learn a lot..

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