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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Mori Seiki Machines > Mori Seiki lathes > Mori SL 25 B 1989 machine won't power up!
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43

    Mori SL 25 B 1989 machine won't power up!

    My machine was working great yesterday and then when I went to startup today the CRT won't turn on. Some of the LEDs in the back panel are not on either. I checked several fuses but no luck. Any thoughts? It has a 10t control. How fussy is the incoming power? I had to step down from 480v 3 phase to 220 but we are close to a hydroelectric station and the voltage is not incredibly consistent. Blew a 5 amp on the power module awhile ago. Had a contactor( sorry probably not the right term. I'm a machinist not an electrician). For the hydraulics go as well. I have only had the machine powered up for a couple of weeks and am just getting familiar with programming so have not used it much! Help please!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    If you blew a 5 amp fuse in the power supply, you most likely have a short on the 24 vdc bus somewhere.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43
    How would I find the short? I live a long ways from anyone civilized and am not Terribly helpful in a town of 1000 people.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    2517
    find an electrician to help. if you know nothing about electrics/electronics you wont find it
    or move closer to a civilization with at least 1001 people

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43

    Thanks for the suggestions, moving probably won't happen. Any thoughts on why this may have happened? I heard that Mori's can be sensitive but am not clear as to how the incoming electrical would affect it. Any suggestions would be awesome! Thanks. By the way other than a lack of qualified people to solve my problem in the immediate area, a town of 1000 rocks out over a town of 1001!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    2517
    faults in the 24VDC bus are pretty common on Mori's. the solenoids operate on 24VDC also (that's probably the 'contactor' you mentioned above)
    assuming the fault is in the 24VDC bus start by locating the 24VDC power supply then trace it back to the connected parts/modules (probably several). Basically you're going to have to get your hands dirty and disassemble some of the machine in the process.
    once the 24VDC power supply is located, power off the machine, disconnect the output wiring to it (leave AC input connected), power on machine and check the output from it with a multimeter set to DC volts. If the power supply is not outputting any power, first check the AC input. If AC is ok you will need to get the power supply repaired or replace with working PSU. if power supply is ok take the wires that were connected to the power supply outputs and do a resistance check across ground and power wires. if 0 Ohms (or low like say ~100 Ohms or less) then the short is at whatever the wires are connected to. follow the wiring to the next connection. it may be necessary to disconnect many of the 24VDC wiring connections to find the fault because a short with all connections joined makes all connections shorted. if you come back here with more info on the connections someone may be able to assist more with specific fault finding info. essentially you just need to find out what 'part' is blown and replace it. it could be a simple transistor, a relay or an entire board/module. or maybe just the 24VDC power supply is bad.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    I can give you a couple common areas to check, but no easy solution, sometimes it takes experts a couple days to track down.

    You need to follow forda's advice first and foremost.

    Chuck foot pedal cable. This get banged up all the time, especially after a move.
    Chuck clamp/unclamp solenoid.
    Turret solenoids
    Limit switches, including the ones behind the turret cover
    X axis cable assembly

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43

    A LITTLE BETTER THAN BEFORE, BUT NOT MUCH

    OK, thanks to all who have to tried thus far(my sanity is only intact due to the support by you guys, and David La at Ellison) I found a contactor(I believe) marked CMM on the board that had tripped. This allowed the machine to power up and work for a couple of days. Then this morning I went to power up and NOTHING! I tried pushing in the same reset, and the LED number on the main board would display a "d" but the switch would not stay depressed. I found a blown "MP32" Daito fuse on the main power supply. Not sure why it blew, and not sure what the "d" stands for. Hope the fuse is the only problem. I live a long ways away from anyone, and am going to order extra fuses as soon as someone gets back to me with availability. Does anyone know why it may have blown? What does the CMM switch do?
    Thanks for all the help, its been truly a blessing!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Sure that's not a circuit breaker? That with the blown fuse (5 amp green fuse?) is for sure indicating something on the 24vdc side is shorting.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43

    Could be a circuit breaker

    Thanks for the rapid reply, underthetire,
    It could be a circuit breaker, but the fuse is a 3.2 amp fuse located at position F13 on the power supply. The last time I posted the fuses on the power supply were good. The machine runs awesome until I power down. When I go to power up, I am unsure as to whether I am powering down wrong or not, the machine first tripped the CMM switch gear and then this time that 3.2 amp fuse.
    I power down by powering off at the control (without hitting the big red HOLY SH** button) and then trip the main switch at the rear.
    Thoughts?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    2517
    the power down sequence is ok. you could just leave it on all the time. bring your bed into the shop and a table, chair and food and you can feed parts into the machine all the time so no money is wasted powering the machine for nothing
    seriously though, we have a few machines that have faults but if left on they work ok. we just power off the control but leave the main power switch on and have no problems.

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