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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    145

    Tormach's new Speeder

    I've been using the new version of Tormach's Speeder for about a month now and have been very impressed with it. Compared with the original version it still has a 3:1 speed multiplier, but there have been some design changes including high speed balancing of the internals that greatly increase its smoothness when running. I've probably got more than 50 hours of run time on my original Speeder and have used it to make many aluminum parts to save machining time thanks to the increased spindle speed. However, I usually had to 'fine tune' the actual speed to avoid annoying resonances that I was afraid would affect surface finish. With this new Speeder, though, I've been running as fast as my carbide cutters will allow and have been getting beautiful surface finishes at any speed I choose. Enclosed are some photos of some parts I've recently made.
    The first photo is a re-do of the connecting rods for my 9-cylinder radial engine I previously machined using my original speeder but recently realized I had a design error causing an interference problem. Machining here was on both sides of the workpiece with 5/32" cylindrical and ball cutters. The only modification I made to my original program was to increase the rpms to 15K from my original 12.7K and I left the feedrates at 7 ipm. What you see in this photo holding the parts in the frame is an Epoxy gel I use to machine 2-sided parts. I machine to half depth from one side, apply the gel to that side and flip the part over to machine the backside. The epoxy holds the parts in place after they are cut free with from the workpiece with a contouring operation. Heating the epoxy with a heat gun allows the parts to drop free with no residue to clean off or filing to clean up.
    The next two photos show the fuel pump enclosure for the same engine. The issues with this part were the deep cavities that required a 1/8" cutter with over 1" stickout in order to machine the internal details. I settled on 15K, 7 ipm and and a conservative .03" doc after some experimenting to minimize chatter from the excessive stickout. Machining time was 1.5 hours (vs 4.5 hours without the Speeder). [The motor and pump were robbed from my son's junked RC car fuel filler.] - Terry
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Connecting rods.JPG   Fuel Pump housing.JPG   Fuel pump.JPG  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Nice! Thanks for the info.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    3063
    Terry - nice work, as always.

    Tormach's web site says that the Speeder is no longer available. Are you using a prototype version of the speeder?

    Mike

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1051
    Very nice work, Terry. Is the "new" speeder the same form factor as the "old" speeder, i.e. just tweaking, or is it a totally new design?

    Randy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    145
    The one that I'm using is their prototype. They asked me back in late November to use and abuse it after they completed their own testing in order to get some user input since I run my original Speeder quite a bit. I've been running this one even on jobs where I wouldn't normally gain any advantage from the higher spindle speed just to see how it holds up. My prototype looks identical to their original production model from the outside. I've been told the major design changes are internal. It certainly runs much quieter and smoother even at full bore 15K. I was never comfortable standing in front of my original Speeder running at 15K because of the noise it made but this one is no problem.
    If Tormach is saying they no longer sell it, I suspect they've temporarily halted production of the current version until this one starts rolling out of production. Perhaps I should have checked with them before blabbing about it on the Internet. :nono:

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    45
    Quote Originally Posted by mayhugh1 View Post
    What you see in this photo holding the parts in the frame is an Epoxy gel I use to machine 2-sided parts. I machine to half depth from one side, apply the gel to that side and flip the part over to machine the backside. The epoxy holds the parts in place after they are cut free with from the workpiece with a contouring operation. Heating the epoxy with a heat gun allows the parts to drop free with no residue to clean off or filing to clean up.
    This looks like a really nice technique. Do you ever get problems with the parts moving in the epoxy? Is there a particular type you use or is it just generic, whatever-is-available stuff?

    Thanks
    Luke

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    145
    The stuff I use is Devcon 5 minute Epoxy Gel available from Lowe's. I actually let it set up 3-4 hours before machining. The usual disclaimers about thoroughly cleaning any off oil (I use Simple Green) before using apply. I tried several advesives before settling on this one. I made some careful measurements along the way and have never seen it move even .001". I can machine both sides of a part and get a near invisible seam if I'm careful about locating my edges and measuring the actual cutter diameter including run-out in the spindle. You can find other adhesives that hold well like JB Weld, for instance, but they are difficult to remove. Loctite and Harbor Freight have quick set epoxies that also work pretty well but they flow out and sometimes end up in places you don't want them. The Devcon gel stays where you put it - just be sure to wet a sufficient area with it to get it to hold. This is also how I machine thin plates. I epoxy the workpiece plate down to a piece of MDF and hold the MDF in my vise. (I'm not claiming this technique will withstand heavy machining but its seems to work well with however you would run a 1/8" to 5/32" cutter.)
    By working the plate down on the MDF on my surface plate while the Gel is setting up I can usually get it flat to within a few thou and occasionally dead flat. It seems an optimum glue line thickness for best holding is .010" to .015".
    I found it is important to not overheat the part when removing it from the MDF. It will release cleanly from the metal at about 150F-175F and this is the point where you just begin to smell it (smells like a wet dog). I use a heat gun. If you go too long or too hot it will separate but some of the adhesive gets baked onto the metal and then you have some scraping to do. If this happens I find it is best to re-heat the metal and use a wooden scraper to remove the residue.
    I've tried 2-sided tape and super glues of all types and haven't yet found anything with the holding strength of this technique. For real heavy machining I would like to find something easily available that would disolve JB Weld but I haven't found anything in the local hardware stores that works. - Terry

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    673
    Good stuff.. thanks for the info.. I have a 1050watt kress I use for my high speed, but haven't used it much yet. I have lots of little parts like that too and have been struggling on how to machine both sides as well (including a 9cyl radial . Thanks for the tips.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    145
    "... If Tormach is saying they no longer sell it, I suspect they've temporarily halted production of the current version until this one starts rolling out of production. Perhaps I should have checked with them before blabbing about it on the Internet. ..."

    ...yep...


    I just learned from Tormach that the new Speeders are in production. They recommend going to their blog site

    Milling Around

    and signing up (put your email address in the box on the right) as they will announcing here when they as well as any other new products are available for purchase.

    Terry

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