[98vert]

So I'm make some aluminum shift knobs that I sanded using 600 grit and then finished with a scotchbrite pad. Finish came out excellent. Nice satin finish. I went ahead and clear anodized them and got some mixed results. All the parts got a little darker, which was expected. However some of the parts had what looked like was some dark pitting. It's not really that bad, but because I made them, I'm looking at these pretty closely. The anodizing worked well otherwise. Even tried a couple dye colors and worked great. Pretty simple process. What I'm thinking is that they were anodyzed too long or that I have the wrong ratio of sulfuric acid in the solution, or that I have the wrong current/voltage. Anyone have any quick things to look into? I'll try to get some pics up for everyone to see. Also, any other ways to finish the scotchbrighted aluminum other than an anodize. Would be great if there were a magic clearcoat that stuck to the aluminum. I think the anodizing is almost overkill for the shift knobs. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks for the help.

Rob

[mrcodewiz]

Anodizing rocks. I use a 3:1 ratio of battery acid to water - I would think a strong mixture could produce pitting as could having the parts too long in the anodizing solution or too high power.

[98vert]

I agree it is a very cool process and result. I used the same mixture ratio 3:1. Think I'll try a little less time next batch and see what happens.

[mrcodewiz]

I'm not sure what size parts or bath you are using but as an example, my bath is about 12 gallons and when I do a couple parts around the size of a large cigar tube, I let it run for about 60 minutes. If I have a whole line of them, I let it run for about 90 minutes. I am using one of those large car battery/chargers 2/20/40/55 Amp I believe and have it at the 20 amp setting. Check out the forums at http://www.caswellplating.com/ there is a wealth of information there.

[MBG]

I'm not sure what size parts or bath you are using but as an example, my bath is about 12 gallons and when I do a couple parts around the size of a large cigar tube, I let it run for about 60 minutes. If I have a whole line of them, I let it run for about 90 minutes. I am using one of those large car battery/chargers 2/20/40/55 Amp I believe and have it at the 20 amp setting. Check out the forums at http://www.caswellplating.com/ there is a wealth of information there.

I don't know how you get away with using a car battery and not being able to control your amps.


I offer anodizing services and I am located in TAMPA,FLORIDA

pm or email me

gcp166872@hotmail.com

[aaron p]

How hard is it really for somebody to do Anodizing in their garage? If you mix up a solution for say "blue" color, do you have to trash it after a certain amount of time? I like the caswell kit. I might be relocating due to day job, and the city im moving to does not have any anodizing shops for my race car parts home business.

[Danodizing]

How hard is it really for somebody to do Anodizing in their garage? If you mix up a solution for say "blue" color, do you have to trash it after a certain amount of time? I like the caswell kit. I might be relocating due to day job, and the city im moving to does not have any anodizing shops for my race car parts home business.

Getting set up small scale isn't hard.

Chemicals will be fine to reuse, you will not have to trash them after each run, just make sure they are stored properly. Caswell is good for chemicals, I personally wouldn't not recommend their kit, too small.

[MBG]

How hard is it really for somebody to do Anodizing in their garage? If you mix up a solution for say "blue" color, do you have to trash it after a certain amount of time? I like the caswell kit. I might be relocating due to day job, and the city im moving to does not have any anodizing shops for my race car parts home business.

To just get color in your part it is fairly easy. Now there is a world of information on anodizing required for aerospace and military application that are a lot more advanced.

Anodizing is very cool because you can do it on a basic level (decorative) to more of a controlled finish in hard anodizing.


Also, remember that the bigger your part the more amps you are going to need.

[Diabolical]

I just bought a lab grade variable regulated linear DC power supply from Mastech, Model number HY3020D. Variable from 0-30V and 0-20A.

Do you think its enough to do a piece of aluminum 1-1/2" x 24" long in a properly sized
container?
Lets say 30"L x 12"W x 12"D?

I used this link to find my surface area Caswell Inc - Calculating Surface Areas
Length (l):24
Width (w):1.5
Height (h):1.5
Answer: 148.5

Then used this link to find my Amp requirements Electroplating Current Requirement Calculator - Caswell Inc.
Type of Plating: Anodizing Aluminum
Square Inches of Part: 150
Answer: 6 Amps

The formulas help with the part but, Does the container size effect anything?
Thanks for any input.

Mike

[Babba]

Hi Diabolical.

Using Caswell's LCD system I've been succesfully anodising parts in my home workshop with repeatable results for the past 3yrs.

I have the exact same power supply & it should be more than OK for your requirements.

I've never had problems due to the size of the bath as my baths are dictated by the size of my parts & my ability to successfully anodise those parts is down to how many amps that power supply can maintain.

Just don't throw them in a 200gall tub 5' away from your 3"X3" anode :-)

It really is easy, just stick to the rules & you won't go far wrong. I found that a little experimentation was usefull just to see what effect varying from those rules produced.

You will find Caswell's finishing forum very helpfull in solving any problems or even just holding your hand untill you get those first few parts successfully done.

Happy new year.

[Diabolical]

Thank you Babba,
Do you the lead anode or Aluminum?
I have seen people use 6061 for the anode.

When I bought the deluxe kit from Caswell it came with a couple of strips of lead for the anode.
I was using a crappy Astron VS 25 (I think) and it kept cutting out.
Found the board was bad so I resorted to a battery charger to finish the project.
I was not impressed.

Additionally, One of my heaters blew up in the sealing tank!
I think the rubber suckers that stick to the side of the tank came loose and it surfaced.
There was a fire.. I used baking soda to put it out.
So, I am looking into alternative sources for new heaters.

Other tank heaters I have tried are for aquarium tanks..
They just dont do well..

I am revamping everything one piece at a time.

Any help would be very welcome.

Mike

[MBG]

Thank you Babba,
Do you the lead anode or Aluminum?
I have seen people use 6061 for the anode.

When I bought the deluxe kit from Caswell it came with a couple of strips of lead for the anode.
I was using a crappy Astron VS 25 (I think) and it kept cutting out.
Found the board was bad so I resorted to a battery charger to finish the project.
I was not impressed.

Additionally, One of my heaters blew up in the sealing tank!
I think the rubber suckers that stick to the side of the tank came loose and it surfaced.
There was a fire.. I used baking soda to put it out.
So, I am looking into alternative sources for new heaters.

Other tank heaters I have tried are for aquarium tanks..
They just dont do well..

I am revamping everything one piece at a time.

Any help would be very welcome.

Mike

I noticed your tank sizes. Due to heat losses I like to run narrow opening but deep tanks.

Also, if you are serioud about heaters I have a few industrial grade process technology heaters that are about 6 months old. Can be used with a heating control or plugged directly into 120volt outlet as it is wired now.

Also, regarding the cathodes I perfer to run 6063 due to the high aluminum content next closes to 2024. 6061 is popular and easy to find but contains out elements.

[Diabolical]

I am open to new tank sizes.
The largest piece is the 24" x 1-1/2" bar.
Everything else is about 6" x 6".

MBG, I sent you a PM.
I was looking into heaters like this Industrial Process Heaters, Flanged Immersion Heaters, Flanged Tubular Heaters
Everything is so expensive its hard not to get frustrated.
Could you send me a picture along with a price?

I have bought 2024 from SpeedyMetals before at a reasonable price.
Speedy Metals - 1/8" {A} x 1-1/2" {B} 2024-T4 Aluminum
Are you saying 2024 is better than 6063?

Also, I have read somewhere else you sell dyes and other things.
I would like to see whats available.

Maybe I should start my own thread.. I feel like we are hijacking this one?

Again, Thanks for all the input.

Mike

[MBG]

I am open to new tank sizes.
The largest piece is the 24" x 1-1/2" bar.
Everything else is about 6" x 6".

MBG, I sent you a PM.
I was looking into heaters like this Industrial Process Heaters, Flanged Immersion Heaters, Flanged Tubular Heaters
Everything is so expensive its hard not to get frustrated.
Could you send me a picture along with a price?

I have bought 2024 from SpeedyMetals before at a reasonable price.
Speedy Metals - 1/8" {A} x 1-1/2" {B} 2024-T4 Aluminum
Are you saying 2024 is better than 6063?

Also, I have read somewhere else you sell dyes and other things.
I would like to see whats available.

Maybe I should start my own thread.. I feel like we are hijacking this one?

Again, Thanks for all the input.

Mike

I read over that heater a little. To be honest, I would stick with process technology heaters they are pretty much the standard for plating. 316 ss tubing and cut off resistors if the tank temperature gets to low.

I have several of these I will be willing to sell. Just underpowered for my tanks.



I currently have them set up with no temperature controller so basically to control the temp. you unplug and plug back in. The do make temperature controllers for this unit.

I am selling these for $100. They are $150 new and the plug end I got it $10.

Also, I don't directly sell dyes anymore but being in Miami you have alert sales and allied plating. Caswell resells U.S. Speciality products.

[Diabolical]

Thanks for the links!
US Specialties
U.S. Specialty Color Corporation
Alert Sales
:: Welcome to Alert Sales ::
Allied Plating
plating supplies, plating equipment, hull cell, powder coating equipment, plating racks, powder coating supplies

What is the wattage rating of those units?
I am interested.

Do you have to be a business to by from US Specialties?
I am in need of new dyes..

Mike

[Babba]

Thank you Babba,
Do you the lead anode or Aluminum?
I have seen people use 6061 for the anode.

I use lead, rolls of lead used for roofing are easy to come by in the UK.

Additionally, One of my heaters blew up in the sealing tank!
I think the rubber suckers that stick to the side of the tank came loose and it surfaced.
There was a fire.. I used baking soda to put it out.
So, I am looking into alternative sources for new heaters.

Other tank heaters I have tried are for aquarium tanks..
They just dont do well..

It's easy to get carried away & start building something which is close to a pro set up, I like to keep it simple & cheap. Depending on season or where you are in the world you need either a heater or a chiller, sometimes both. I need just a heater & after trialling 3 I've settled with a 300watt aquarium heater that I leave in the bath permanantly. It's tie wrapped to the lead anode, the supplied brackets/suckers soon fail in the acid.

I do have a pro heater, cost me £200 & is built specifically for taxidermists to treat their skins/carcasses. 1kw with thermostatic temp control & the business end is incomel, a bit overkill for my setup but I'm keeping it in case I need to go bigger in the future.

Likewise with the agitation, a simple aquarium air pump that feeds tubes with holes in. I use taps to control the flow rate according to the size/shape of the parts I'm anodising.

KISS, Keep it simple stupid.

[Diabolical]

That's a great idea! (tying the heater down) I was kinda surprised when everything caught on fire.
To tell the truth.. It scared me with all the chemicals around.
It was a ceramic 300watt heater from Caswell.

Along with the ceramic heater, The glass heater's (150watt) have gone bad as well.
They cycle over and over but never get over 100 degrees. I even put 2 in one tank.
The tank was 18" x 12" x 6" filled with about 4" of fluid.
I bought an external thermostat and plugged in one of the 300watt ceramic units and
was able to get the 140 degrees I was looking for.

I have an agitation pump that stopped working from Caswell too..
So I am looking for a better one.

I like the K.I.S.S. mentality as well.. But.. I don't want to keep buying parts over and over.

Electrically, my house is fine. (I am a Master Electrician) Not that that matters,
I'm just stating I have checked all the variables as far as my power source at a competent level.

I live in Miami, Fl so, the temperature for the most part is pretty predictable.

Mike

[Babba]

That's a great idea! (tying the heater down) I was kinda surprised when everything caught on fire.
To tell the truth.. It scared me with all the chemicals around.
It was a ceramic 300watt heater from Caswell.

Along with the ceramic heater, The glass heater's (150watt) have gone bad as well.
They cycle over and over but never get over 100 degrees. I even put 2 in one tank.
The tank was 18" x 12" x 6" filled with about 4" of fluid.
I bought an external thermostat and plugged in one of the 300watt ceramic units and
was able to get the 140 degrees I was looking for.

I have an agitation pump that stopped working from Caswell too..
So I am looking for a better one.

I like the K.I.S.S. mentality as well.. But.. I don't want to keep buying parts over and over.

Electrically, my house is fine. (I am a Master Electrician) Not that that matters,
I'm just stating I have checked all the variables as far as my power source at a competent level.

I live in Miami, Fl so, the temperature for the most part is pretty predictable.

Mike

It costs me a minimum of £60 to get my local shop to anodise a batch (inc's approx 40 parts) but my workflow often dictates that I have at most 8 parts per week to process. I give up my Sunday mornings to do them.

On the odd occasion that the shop is doing it for me (approx 10x per year) I like to hang around & gossip a bit.

He's invested around £200k into his shop ! I estimate he's drawing a salary of £60k a year so it's a good investment, but it's comforting to know that he's thrown away a lot more cash than I have in mistakes over the years.

While it would be nice to not waste a few aquarium heaters in the process of finding a suitable one, I can handle loosing the odd £20 here & there.

If you know what I mean ?

[mactec54]

Diabolical

US specialtys will sell to you, I get my dyes from them, I found lead the best for your anodes, the aluminum anodes eat away over time, & the lead does not

[Diabolical]

Thats great news Mactec54! I will contact them on Monday.

Babba,
Here in Miami Florida.. It seams everyone is out to hit a "home run" on every sale.
Maybe its the economy.. I don't know..
What I do know is.. I want to build a reliable system and most of the time.. You get what you pay for.
If I had someone down here that would do a batch that cheap I would be all over it.
I havent found anyone here locally that would touch what I want done for under 200 bucks!
That's (6) 24" bars! I'll spend the 200 on my system.

Again.. Thank you for your input. It's greatly appreciated.

Mike