[SScnc]

I do have an air compressor but like most, it's incredibly LOUD. Although I am building a silent compressor I've been wanting to try this electric draw bar idea out.

I spent about a full day getting this all put together and operational and I'm impressed with how well it works. This little linear actuator is very powerful, it's rated at 900 lbs. "push". I first had 3/8" rods for the cross bars and the motor quickly bent them. So since it looked like the idea was actually going to work, I changed the cross bar rods to 5/8" and they work fine.

While I was at it I also installed the top bearing cooler, the coolers will be much more useful when I get the spindle speeds closer to 8000 RPM but they help now.

I really think that this electric (or any power drawbar) would work much better with R8 instead of the MT3. I had to use 10 Belleville washers to get enough travel so my TTS style holders would release. I may change to an R8 spindle later.

Now instead of using the spindle lock, wrench and brass hammer, I just press a DPDT (on) OFF (on) toggle up or down.

I personally haven't seen this done and thought you guys may like to check it out.

Best,

Steve

EDIT: Oh yeah, I forgot, the 1/8" lever bars are just temporary, I'm going to change them to 1/4" thick due to the strain placed on them during operation.

[hoss2006]

Pretty cool!
Where did you get the actuator?
Any video?
Hoss

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Very nice! I've considered taking a similar approach, using DC motor or stepper and several stages of belt or gear reduction.

Where did you find the actuator, what did it cost, and what are its specs?

Regards,
Ray L.

[SScnc]

Thanks guys, I meant to put a link for the actuator in but forgot to. I got it from our favorite supplier, SurplusCenter HERE and all the specs are there. At only 22 bucks I figured it was worth a try.

I bent up a sheet metal cover for it. No video of it Hoss, I thought about it and may do so and put it on Youtube.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Thanks guys, I meant to put a link for the actuator in but forgot to. I got it from our favorite supplier, SurplusCenter HERE and all the specs are there. At only 22 bucks I figured it was worth a try.

I bent up a sheet metal cover for it. No video of it Hoss, I thought about it and may do so and put it on Youtube.

Yikes! Does it really take 24 seconds to go full travel?

Regards,
Ray L.

[SScnc]

I don't know, I didn't run it full travel yet but to release it takes 8.5 to 9 seconds. Same for return. Not as fast as air but a whole lot faster than the hammer method.

It seems reasonably quick to me. Something else I forgot to mention, I did a test with the mill motor removed and with this actuator located directly above the drawbar and it easily compressed the drawbar fully without any levers. I would prefer to mount it this way but my water jacket on the mill motor prevented that so that's why I used the levers. So I think regular X2's would be able to do it this direct push way, I just don't want to give up my water cooled motor since it's already done.

Steve

[Nateg281]

I do have an air compressor but like most, it's incredibly LOUD. Although I am building a silent compressor I've been wanting to try this electric draw bar idea out.

I spent about a full day getting this all put together and operational and I'm impressed with how well it works. This little linear actuator is very powerful, it's rated at 900 lbs. "push". I first had 3/8" rods for the cross bars and the motor quickly bent them. So since it looked like the idea was actually going to work, I changed the cross bar rods to 5/8" and they work fine.

While I was at it I also installed the top bearing cooler, the coolers will be much more useful when I get the spindle speeds closer to 8000 RPM but they help now.

I really think that this electric (or any power drawbar) would work much better with R8 instead of the MT3. I had to use 10 Belleville washers to get enough travel so my TTS style holders would release. I may change to an R8 spindle later.

Now instead of using the spindle lock, wrench and brass hammer, I just press a DPDT (on) OFF (on) toggle up or down.

I personally haven't seen this done and thought you guys may like to check it out.

Best,

Steve

EDIT: Oh yeah, I forgot, the 1/8" lever bars are just temporary, I'm going to change them to 1/4" thick due to the strain placed on them during operation.

That looks awesome! I'd love to set something like that up for my X2....

[digits]

Very cool - and presumably very quiet!

I'm glad someone's proved this is quite doable

[Crevice Reamer]

Well done Steve! Good pioneering effort!

CR.

[pete from TN]

Very nice man, very nice..... I have been looking for something like this to do the power drawbar on my Lathemaster cnc mill. What is your drawbar force and what is the actual throw of the unit from relaxed to when the tool actually releases? I have just ordered one of these units to see if I can make it work on my machine. I am thinking about a four to one ratio on a lever and I can get the 3000psi pressure I am after. I suppose it is pretty quiet no? Mine will probably look vastly different from yours when I get it done but it will obviously work the same way. From looking at the Surplus center website they also have a 1 5/8" throw unit and I almost went with that until I saw that it is nearly eight inches long, three inches longer than the one you used. The power drawbar is something I have wanted to do for awhile now and this may just do it for me. The only real issue I have with this is I will eventually want to automate the whole thing for a toolchanger setup of some sort so it will I suppose need some sort of limits to allow it to stop and start and only go as far as necessary to facilitate a toolchange. The dpdt switch will work fine for now tho. My cnc4pc c11G breakout board has relays for controlling ac units but I have no idea how this would be accomplished with this or wether or not a reversing setup could be done. Any ideas on this from anyone here would be most appreciated... Sorry for all the questions but I am not an electronics expert whatsoever...

Anyways, very nice unit and great looking little X2 ya got there. I really like your ingenious ideas and keep up the good work man....peace

[SScnc]

Thanks guys,

I'm quite impressed with it, it's working better than I thought it would.

And per Hoss's request, I just did a YouTube video of it in operation (my first YouTube upload) the quality isn't too good I guess because I used the memory card.


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Blf7lB9bQ8Y"]YouTube - X2 Electric Draw Bar[/ame]

[pete from TN]

I like it man, nice and quiet... It does seem like there is a tad bit of unnecessary travel in the beginning of the stroke but it does not take that long really. Of course a pneumatic setup is real quick but just not having to hear an impact wrench, compressor run, or reach for any tools is worth the price of admission, speaking of price, nice that surplus center is so inexpensive with it. I love that place, bought several items for machines and stuff over the years...

If you do not mind, what is your total bellville pressure? I am trying to figure mine out currently and the actuator is on order now so gotta order some bellvilles... did you have to remake the drawbar? I think mine is not gonna be long enough to accept the stack of washers, my scissors large washer and still reach the collet. What say ye? peace

[pete from TN]

All I do is go to the youtube site and play the video, then copy and paste the url from my browser in my posting... works fine here... thanks man...peace

[hoss2006]

To see if your drawbar has enough length, tighten an R8 tool in the spindle.
Loosen the drawbar but be careful not to knock the tool out.
Unscrew it, then carefully reengage at least 3 turns of the drawbar.
The gap above the spindle will show you how much room you have for bellevilles.
Putting the tension on them will give you a couple more turns so you'll be safe with little worry of stripping the threads.
Need more space? You can turn the head down in a lathe and give yourself a little more reach.
To put the tension on the springs, tighten the drawbar finger tight with a tool in spindle.
Give it one full turn with a wrench and check that the tool still drops out using the power drawbar.
Keep track, add a 1/4 turn and retest. Repeat until the tool hangs up a little then back off that 1/4 turn.
Now you know how many turns it'll take next time with the wrench and that you're getting as much pull as possible.
Hoss

[pete from TN]

Thanks for that man, so you are saying that three turns before the compression of the bellvilles is adequate... I am not even sure how many thread turns are in the collet?? I gotta check. Good tip to turn down the head a tad for a little more breathing room... peace