This thread will include everything anyone will ever need to CNC a Strat. Let us collect our plans, drawings, tooling ideas, g-code so anyone with a CNC and a few chunks of wood can build a Strat.
This thread will include everything anyone will ever need to CNC a Strat. Let us collect our plans, drawings, tooling ideas, g-code so anyone with a CNC and a few chunks of wood can build a Strat.
Works for me!
I wonder where I can find a .0023 cutter for the fret slots?
Since you gotta buy wood anyway... Might as well buy a pre-slotted fretboard from Stewmac or LMII as it's almost the same price as an unslotted one... I can probably provide a slotting service as I have access to the slotting equipment... But only if someone were to send me the wood, fee would be reasonable.Originally Posted by Ed_R
Oh, we can call it a Strat "Style" guitar with no problems... I actually have a decent set of CAD drawings for one... Though I'm not sure where they originated but they are acurate. I might consider redrawing them for the sake of not redistributing someone elses work.
I do have a nice CAD file of a Tele body that is fairly accurate that I drew myself from the original blueprints... I need to do a little clean up before posting it up.
Nathan
http://www.precisebits.com/products/...I1.x=6&I1.y=13Originally Posted by Ed_R
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Hi, I use micro-cutters from Precise Bits. They have special application bits for luthiery and inlay.Originally Posted by Ed_R
www.precisebits.com
James Leonard - www.DragonCNC.com - www.LeonardCNCSoftware.com - www.CorelDRAWCadCam.com - www.LeonardMusicalInstruments.com
One thing though- we probably shouldn't call it a 'strat', since that's a no-no.
Hard to buy a fingerboard for a one-piece maple neck.
Ed,
The way I make my fretboards is I use a tiny bit, the one I use for cutting inlay as a matter of fact, to make a single pass across the fretboard to make not much more than a mark, I then use a fret saw to cut the actual slots. Essentially I use the cnc to mark the slots and a fret saw to cut them. I have the g-code to make the marks.
Ed, Corrie,
Is it allright with you guys that I post some of the drawings we have been passing around for others to comment on?
Go for it, Greg.
Here is the DXF file of the body. It contains all of the cuts, both sides viewed from above. Also are some 3D views of the body. When all agree with the looks of the body, I can post the g-code for it. Ed has suggested machining the body as follows:
1. Cut the outline of the body on the cnc and pop it off the cnc
2. Cut the .5" rounds all the way around the body top and bottom on a router table.
3. Put the body back on the CNC, top side up and cut all the pockets, tuners, knobs, trem, neck, etc...
4. Cut the arm cutout.
5. Flip the body over on the cnc table and machine the trembelo cut out on the back
6. Cut the body releif on the back
7. Take it off the CNC and sand it.
Ed, did I get that correct?
Hello Gregmary, I downloaded the Rhino 3dm file off the strat neck, do you also have the 3dm file of the body?
Yep. But I don't think it's a half-inch roundover. I'd have to measure to be certain but it's most likely not any bigger than 1/4 inch.
THe only issue really now is hold-downs. It might be smarter and easier for us to just program a stop in the G-code to let us move the clamps. We could just tell the code to cut around the clamps, but then everyone using the file would have to use the same sized clamps too.
I'm open for suggestions on that one.
I am thinking that we add two tabs and have the g-code designed so the tool never goes near the tops of the tabs. The tab near the neck would have a .25" hole for alignment aligned with the body centerline. There would be two other holes for clamping bolts. The second tab would be located in the trembelo cutout and would also have a hole for an alignment pin in line with the body centerline and two other holes for clamping bolts. the tab near the neck could be cut off later and the material in the tremb pocket could be hand routed out, it would not neec to be real pretty as both sides are covered up. The blank would be clamped to our work table and the very first g-code file would cut the six holes. They would be symetrical so the same clamp bolts could be used with the body is flipped over for machining on the opposite side.
What do ya think?
greg, I think by using the tabs you can machine the guitar completely in two set-ups, one front and one back.Originally Posted by gregmary
I'll use the back as an example. Assuming the blank is prepped with tab holes installed and locator pins on the cnc to match.
1. Drill any through holes necessary.
2. Route any pockets.
3. Mill profile to .060" less than halfway through with an endmill.
4. Use roundover bit to cut all areas that can be cut with cnc
5. Flip blank and repeat for the front side.
6. Re-cut profile with endmill past 50% depth of the body everywhere
except the tabs.
7. Remove blank, part tabs off and sand.
Mike
ps http://www.guitarbuild.com/modules/m...oads/index.php
this site has several plans.........you can tank ynneb for this one!
No greater love can a man have than this, that he give his life for a friend.
That would work well for the body. We could even tell teh G-code to cut the neck tab down to about a quarter-inch thick as one of its last tasks, on the seam where it joins the body, so we'd have a really good alignment tool for the final cutoff
Strats use a 3/8" round over
Nathan
I think that's too bug, but I'll measure it before I cut to be certain.Originally Posted by anoel
I've got the facotry blueprints for a '62 model in the book "The Fender Statocaster" and the blue prints actually state 7/16" so the 3/8 that I've been using is actually a bit small... But after sanding can't tell the strat body that I buit from a factory one.
Nathan
Here I was thinking Strativarius (sp?) and you guys are thinking Stratocaster.....oh, well....call Nebulator....sorta a take off nebulae....
This is my first post, even tho it's a reply so here goes:::
If the book you are referring to is the one by Andre Duchoissoir, then be advised that the dimensions in that book are INTENTIONALLY INCORRECT. And "why is that", you ask? Well, it's because that company beggining with the letter "F" would not allow Duchoissoir to publish such inside info on the world's most popular guitar because it's design privacy infringement, or some such dogma designed to resist easy mass knockoffs of same, and seeing as there already ARE zillions of knockoffs, you know the rest............So my advice is to take about 5 separate Strats, take an average measure, and go with that...every other dimension on the body is logic dependent any way, like the neck pocket not being the same for every neck, as they are different widths (usually 2 3/16ths to 2 1/4), or the placement of pickup cavities to be in in centerline with the bridge, etc. So mebbe that's some help. Unless you are talking about some other book entirely, in which case NEVER MIND....