[morbius]

Hi Folks,

Here goes my real first post. Been here a long time lurking and learning, now time to share and give back

Traded my old shoptask machine and got a tri-power with my cnc stuff refitted, ball screws and dro. I ended going that route since there was a couple feature I wanted that was on the new machine and the price was right. Yes I know there are some issues but nothing I can fix. Now I am going to set off on a project similar to what Bloy2004 did. Started stripping the machine so that every part can be cleaned (biggest problem I think with the machine is the mating surfaces are full of junk causing possible alignment issues), repaint correctly and re-assemble correctly. Change out the Nook 0.004 ball screws for the Nook 0.00015 version. And so on ...

I will try to keep a photo history like Bloy2004 and share my experience with the Tri-power. I like the machine, just need to get the accuratacy up. Like to chat with other tri-power users on tips, tricks, and ideas on what they did to their machines.

Cheers,
Roberto

[bicycleboy]

Roberto,
Hi, sounds like a big project. There are many things that need to be fixed. I have a late 2006 manual Tri-Power that I am in the early planning and procurement process of CNCing.

I plan on eliminating the y power feed during the conversion. The compromises made in order to make the y work are to limiting. Wonder what you think about this since you formerly had no power y. Actually, do you use the manual modes since you have CNC?

I made a DRO for the x axis that seems to work pretty good. Haven't done the others. Figured out the table rotates to much when changing x direction. Planning on making a removable plate that will be made to attach between the saddle and the tail stock base to extend the width to eliminate rotation. I will also be stiffening the fifth column and the horizontal plate to it and making a counter weight for the mill head.

I have some other silly ideas if anyone wants to hear them.

Mike

[morbius]

Hi Mike,

Yes, big project, but looks like a ton of fun ! Took a while to dismantle everything and notice a problem with the table. So I removed everything and noticed the table has a 1/2 inch bow. So in the process of fixing that and when I re-install the machine base, shims are going to be need to make sure the machine stays aligned. I will start posting pics at that point.

The thing I hated with my old machine was every time I wanted manual mode, I had to pull a bolt then put the bolt back and recheck everything. Drove me nuts ! I have not played much with this new setup, honestly it was something I wanted so only time will tell. I used my machine more in manual mode in the past to do little things here and there. Now I want to do more cnc and need precision hence the full tear down and rebuild.

No ideas are silly ! Lets hear them, the more we share and exchange ideas the better the machine will be and the more fun we can have

Cheers,
Roberto

[gerryv]

Wow are you serious, a 1/2" bow?

I just joined today, thinking of buying a manual/DRO system to start so this is kind of scarey. Is that pretty unusual, hopefully? Would it not be considered a manufacturers defect?

Thanks much,
Gerry

[morbius]

Hi Gerry,

Welcome aboard ! I should note if I did not already mention it, my system was damaged in transist. Fedex frieght (they are great but ...) destroyed the shipping crate, broke a couple a minor parts on the machine and bent up the table with the forklift. It almost looks like they dropped the skid at some point. There should be some upward crowning since the weight the machine will then flatten it out vs bowing the opposite direction, but was alot above that !

Nothing a little repair work can not fix real easy. Since I am tried of the yellow color and was planning changing it from the start, I noted the damages on the tag and John at Shoptask has been standing by with replacement parts if needed.

Cheers,
Roberto

Wow are you serious, a 1/2" bow?

I just joined today, thinking of buying a manual/DRO system to start so this is kind of scarey. Is that pretty unusual, hopefully? Would it not be considered a manufacturers defect?

Thanks much,
Gerry

[morbius]

Here is the start of the pics, please excuse the junk in the background. Limited on space and in the process of rebuilding my shop also ....

Here is the table, all cleaned, fixed and repainted:




Here is the bed installed. The support bars where put down with sealer behind them to seal the holes. All squared and level


Still some yellow to clean off ....


Lathe head installed. Required work on repairing the bushing that guides the gear for the tri-power x/y screws .... When I started, the gear could only be turned with a wrench and some serious force. Now it turns by hand, required shimming the back of the bush until square with the shaft.




The bed is fully level and square. The lathe top is squared, the lathe bottom is not and needed adjusting. Shimming the back corrected the problem .... 0.040 on the left and 0.044 on the right


More to come once new supply of shim stock arrives ...

Cheers,
Roberto

[gerryv]

Hi Roberto,

Did you ever get a chance to finish blueprinting your tri-power. The pic's were great so it would be nice to see the finished product and any thoughts on if you're happy with the machine functionally.

Thanks much,
Gerry

[morbius]

Hi Gerry. At the moment, the tri-power is on hold while shop construction work is in progress. As soon as that is done, I can get back to the tri-power and get it all finished. Cheers, Roberto

[mixdenny]

It's interesting to see that changing the bearings made such a difference since the bearings in my Eldorado don't seem bad just with a 'hand-test'. I replaced all the lathe drive belts with the cogged style and it did make it a bit quieter.

But I found out that you can't use cogged belts for the two matched belts that are on the motor, as the inside of the nearest belt has to ride on the small idler pully while under load, and the cogged belt will slip off the idler after it wears a bit. I was using metric 560 lengths for those two belts. They also were a bit longer than the factory belts but could be adjusted to work.

Denny

[the4thseal]

what size are the spindle bearings and are they worth replacing, if so any idea how wuch they would cost?

[digitalmdj]

The front spindle bearing is a 32008 and the rear is a 32007. The Mill bearings are 32006 and another 32007. To purchase them on line here is a link. http://www.motionindustries.com/ . You can find them at Motion industries . They have timkens or other brands. The p5 precision bearings are next to impossible to get but the standard timkens are around 50 dollars each.

[the4thseal]

thanks but i cannot find these bearings? do you have a link?