[cogger]

Well this is my build log. I wasn't sure if I was going to start one but as a thank you to this FORUM and all the other posts that helped me along the way I felt I should. I have only ever read a FORUM but never posted so if I am doing something wrong or you want me to provide more information just let me know.

After lots of reading/searching I decided to build my machine using CNCRouterParts as my major source. Thankfully I did b/c for me it has provided the product I need to make this successful. I'm not an engineer nor am I engineered minded. I have no prior experience with CNC, CAD or Mach. I literally stumbled upon this website then started exploring. After that I just had a desire to cut some wood or plastic with a CNC machine and get into this. That I have!

My machine dimensions are 48"x 73". This will give me a cutting area of about 33"x64" and approx. 4.5" z axis travel. My table top/spoil board is 36"x73".

These are the parts I am using -

T-Slots from Automation for Less
Gantry:3030 48" (1)
Gantry Risers:3030 5" (2)
Rails:1530 73" (2)
Z Axis:1530 18" (1)

Cold rolled steal from Online Metals
Cold Rolled Rails:1/4" x 2 1/2" x 73" (2)
Cold Rolled Gantry:1/4 x 4" x 48" (1)
Cold Rolled Z axis:1/4 x 4" x 14" (1)

Moore Gears -
Gear Racks: 72" but they ship 73" (2)

McMaster-Carr
Acme 5 start screw 1/2"

CNC Router Parts
Everything else - high z plate, rack and pinion for NEMA34, mounting plate for Z axis, gantry interface plate plate(s), thrust bearing, five start nut, coupler, motors, electronics, carriages, rack clamps

Unistrut for supporting frame

Porter cable router

K2CNC
Router Mount

KentCNc
Dust Shoe

Prescise Bits
Collets
End Mills

More to follow........

[ahren]

Cogger, thanks for starting a build log! I'll let you know when the steel test bed frame we discussed is ready so you can decide if you want to upgrade from that unistrut. And since you're new to the forum, I'd suggest posting some pictures -- nothing gets people more interested in your build. Of course, once you start, folks will keep bugging you for more, but that's the price of fame on cnczone .

Ahren
CNCRouterParts

[cogger]

Thanks Ahren –

As mentioned I am changing my table from unistrut to welded steel. My build has a couple major changes. The first being an upgrade from the original plan of Nema 23 to Nema 34, the second changing from unistrut to welded metal table. This was caused by the first change. I could have probably stuck with the unistrut and made it work. SAGREEN Xzero raptor build shows a great table that he made out of unistrut. Ultimately I felt a welded table could be made with greater precision than I could achieve.... and the heft of a welded table would really be beneficial with these monster nema34s. BTW SAGREEN is creating RMGvideos for building guitars using a CNC. This guy has mad skills. I saw his shop and guitars he has made. I was seriously inspired by his CNC machine, his overall shop and the projects he has completed.

I looked at a look of builds and I thought Paval's on CNCROUTERPARTS site appeared really stout and economical vs. some more elaborate builds. This is what gave me the idea of unistrut rather than spending for more T-Slots. Thanks to Ahren for starting to offer a welded table.

The parts start to arrive and the stuff from cncrouterparts is like jewelry. I sailed a boat around the world for four years after rebuilding it and compared to a lot of boat parts this stuff rocks.


These are the carriages and high z plate - this plate was created to use the extended linear carriages to provide some serious rigidity.


Carriages attached to the high z plate with Acme nut in place . They are all extended carriages with the exception of the bottom of the X axis. Also in pic are the gantry interface plates.


Carriages with Z plate

[cogger]

Other parts arrive - at this point I had everything but the electronics which at the time I thought would be Nema23. Like most I was going with nema23 b/c of cost and the ease of installation. Several builds that I admired I contacted and asked if they had any regrets about not going bigger. The consensus was that you were not going to exceed 'x' amount of inches per minute (IPM) b/c I am going to use a router, accuracy, etc... But I figure I will likely get a spindle someday and I intend to plow through some MDF and plywood for some projects I am thinking about. In addition cncrouterparts just began to introduce their nema34 breakout board and they are selling complete plug and play electronics. So that is what I went with Nema34. Also I'm a guy and I like tools. Typically I buy more than needed. The older I get and the less I make this often comes back to bite me, yet sometimes I still cannot resist. But I am ahead of myself....


Drilling the cold rolled steel - with a new bit it drilled like butter. All holes drilled maybe took 1 1/2 hours.





My steel came from online metals. I did not paint the steel b/c I am too impatient but I will likely break it down do that. I figured I never painted my table saw or band saw so why paint this. Although it is already showing a hint of rust.

The build really starts to crank up once the holes have been drilled.



Started bolting together extrusion and steel. Here you can also see the rack clamps from cncrouterparts with the gear rack attached.



Attached 5” riser 3030's to 48" gantry with simple plate and gusset



Tapping holes to receive bolts that hold the gantry interface plates. Tapping these are really easy and quick as the holes are already drilled - I did have one small issue. My elbow hit the tap as you see it in the pic, partially started. The tap snapped right off in the hole. I thought that was hardened steel?


Gantry interface plates and carriages. Everything just bolts together real easy. I did have to tap the holes in the carriages. Although I bet you could arrange something with Ahren to have them tapped in advance.


Basically ready to get serious about attaching everything together on the table and introducing the unistrut which was my first plan. Z axis needs to be assembled as well.



Up to this point I am about three hours into the build once the parts were in my garage. I wish I could source the T-slots or 8020 locally. I would have probably changed to 1545 vs. 1530. Not b/c of strength but to gain that additional height. Also if it were local I would likely not have gone the cheap route for the unistrut. I just didn’t have confidence in myself nor was I sure I would even like the build. Unfortunately all t-slot and 8020 is a distributorship type sale so ordering must come with a real plan. Automation for Less has a great website and was my preferred choice despite being across the country for me.

[cncrr]

Cogger, very nice start to your new machine. In fact your arrangement of your gantry has answered an important question for me on my design. The red off-set plates offered by CNCRouterParts will be used in my design.

You stated, "I intend to plow through some MDF and plywood for some projects I am thinking about". I currently have a commerically built 5'x 10" CNC router with a 6hp water cooled spindle and unless I'm using a 1/2" bit I'm not running much faster then 100ipm and cutting 1/2" deep. Even at that it makes me pretty nervous. So be very careful. I find that slower imp feed rate and shallow cuts make better parts.

BTW your last picture shows one of your X axis rails with the R&P on the inside. Better make sure you switch that around before you secure it to your table. It might make cutting a little tough. Hehehe

Chuck

[cogger]

Thanks Chuck - my build is actually further along but I am trying to play catch up on posting. But you are right about the pic. Fortunately in this hobby flipping it around was the easiest fix yet.

That is interesting about your commercial machine. I like knowing what the different ends of the spectrum are so I can set my own expectations. I have never posted in a forum before so I am trying to limit how much I write. From what I understand larger motors will produce a faster crossover therefore reducing time on intricate projects such as 3d carvings. Additionally, based on how I use my other tools I always seem to be at that high end of their capacity. I didn't want that to happen with this machine. Also, someday when I have a bigger shop I think I may want a table that can fit a whole sheet of plywood. Of course by that time nema34 drivers will probably be the size of the G540.

The gantry interface plate is great. It is stout, easy to apply to one's build, and gives you several more inches of cutting area. In my case maximizing the 48" gantry. Also, cncrouterparts is coming out with rail sweeps that bolt on, and it's only $25. I'm not looking to just toss money around but come on. Ahren is passionate about this stuff and makes great parts that are really reasonably priced. BTW if you notice I used the standard linear carriage on the bottom of my 'x' to pick up a couple more inches and what I call your gantry risers need to be at least 2" (I think I have that correct).


Mounting unistrut to 1530 - used grinder for all the cuts


Unistrut is not very exact - you have to be careful that the gear rack does not intrude with the unistrut as it runs along the 1530


Bolts are being loaded for all the cross pieces - I lost my thought process and put in way to many only to be removed.


Well I kind of skipped ahead but I attached all the cross pieces. I used a square and measured them all to be spaced about the same. Currently they are all bolted. If I stuck with this plan I was prepared to weld them with my Millermatic 211 which I love. I added another cross piece to the front and back since this pic.


I have decided to go with a welded table and loose the unistrut after running the nema34’s. However, there is a part of me that would have like to have seen this prototype in action. It is rock solid. It’s just that I need a table for it, so one step back two forward.


Note on the 'x' the top linear carriage is extended and the lower one is regular. You can see how the top one is kind of lined up with the gantry interface plate and would cost you about 1.5". Also you can see with the high z plate that the acme screw is on the inside of the 'z' assembly. My router mount will end up fastening to the 1530.

[cogger]

Finally got around to put the z together.


Unlike this picture my z is flipped around and the router mount connects to the 1530 like the sketch below


This was the sketch that I went off that I found on someone else's build


I neglected to take a few photos in between mounting the R & P and Nema23 motors but here is a good shoot of my z assembly. I decided to upgrade from the Nema23 to Nema34


K2 mount doesn't have predrilled holes to attach to the 1530 but that was a easy mod

Time to take more photos

[comanchesniper]

See above post....

[comanchesniper]

I have built virtually the same table and from what I see we are about even as far as construction.

I noticed on my controller board that the Parallel port is a female. The parallel on the computer is female also. Common parallel cables are male at one end and female at the other. How did you get around this. Adapter or double male cable?

[rocketflier]

I have built virtually the same table and from what I see we are about even as far as construction.

I noticed on my controller board that the Parallel port is a female. The parallel on the computer is female also. Common parallel cables are male at one end and female at the other. How did you get around this. Adapter or double male cable?

Yes, either.

Look at thriftstores as many in this area have the older cables.

[LazyMan]

Nice build,

I really like how that electronics enclosure has a removable plate so It can easily be machined. I know you purchased it ready made, but what brand is it?

[ahren]

Comanchesniper,

We sell the male to male cables that connect between the G540 and parallel port. In general, you want to be careful when purchasing these cables for CNC -- some cheaper printer cables don't populate all the conductors, or flip conductors between the two ends. There have been some epic troubleshooting sessions that have ended by switching to the right cable here .

LazyMan, we carry the enclosures on our site. If you want an unmodified panel for the bottom, we have those available if you want to customize.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts

[comanchesniper]

I got it to move!!! But, the direction isnt working. It only moves one way regardless of the jog direction.

Did you have an issue with step/direction pin wiring? and what are your pin configs for mach 3?

I am just having epic direction issues. I am stumped.

Thanks in advance.

Right now, the "X" pin is set to 3. 2 doesn't move it. Direction pin regardless of what it is set to does not change the direction.

[Wavfact]

I am curious as to your decision to go from the NEMA 23's the the 34's? Still trying to work out what the real difference is in cutting wood..

Also, if you don't mind me asking, what was your budget for your build and how close or over did you get?

I've read a lot in these forums about CNC builds.. Some go with all MDF and some with 8020, I think 8020 would be best just for longevity! To me, cutting wood with wood is like feeding bacon to a pig.. but it all boilds down to cost in the end I suppose.. I'm in the process of deciding which direction to go myself and I GREATLY appreciate your build log!

Dennis

[Peter Schuldt]

Wavefact-
The decision to use NEMA 34 motors on my 4x8 really came down to speed. Some of these jobs take over an hour to mill so just speeding up the rapids helps. The NEMA 34's also offer the ability to make more aggressive cuts. If you are weighing the cost of table size vs motor size, build the size table you want. It is easy to upgrade your drive components.