Thank you Kiwibrick. This wouldn't have been possible without the help here.

Well, tonight I managed to get a video of the working switches. Though, the video isn't very good, I think you can still see what's going on.

The blue LED's in the back ground represent the switching, example: Optocoupler built into the limit switch input of your break-out-board.
I do not have these switches cast in resin yet. I wasn't going to until I tested and made sure it all works. If I had, the LED's on the switches would have lit up more, lighting up the whole encased resin.

As you can see, barely, the Blue LED's are on, until the switch is triggered by the magnet; this is Normally Closed mode. You can barely see in the back ground that Blue LED related to the switch I have the magnet close to turns off. Also, at the same time, the LED on the rear Panel turns from green to red, indicating it is tripped, as well as the LED on the front panel turns also from green to red.

The test switch (the tactile switch on the front panel) I have noticed a problem with, and it will be fixed by the end of the night. It seems to be variable in switching all the LED's on and off, meaning, sometimes when the switch is depressed, the LED's all still stay on, when they should have gone off. This is a test switch to make sure all the LED's are functional on all the switches, rear panel, and front Panel. I know what the problem is, and it will be fixed.

Also, at the end of the video, I placed the jumper on one of the switches, When I do that, you can see that the blue LED turns off, when the switch is triggered, it turns on. his is Normally Open Mode.

I have also checked to make sure the Reverse Polarity Protection is working (not in video), and it does as intended. So, if the mainboard's positive and negative supply is hooked up backwards, no problem, circuit is protected. Also, I have checked voltages from 7.5 to 24 volts, and it works just fine for voltage input. The voltage regulator puts out 5.24volts to the circuit. Which is perfect. By the time the voltage goes down the length of the cable to the switches, and returns, all the logic chips should see close to the full 5volts they like to see.

I made a mistake and switched the resistor values for the front panel, so the green (which is naturally brighter to the human eye) appears way to bright compared to the red LED's. I will fix that on the next board I solder up and the two colors should balance out (to the human eye anyway). I'd like to actually change those LED's on the front panel to a diffused LED, but I'm having trouble locating a 3mm diffused LED in a flat top that is frosted clear in color. I (before) assembled a couple of the older boards in the diffused color ones to see what it would look like, and it didn't look very good. I think once I balance out the brightness between the two colors, It should look very nice. I am also going to have the option of changing the green LED's to blue in color. That of which, will change all LED green colors to blue, switches, rear panel, front panel, and mainboard. It's simply just changing the LED's and the resistor in series with that LED, easy enough.

The new optocoupler output is nice. I had a couple wall power plugs i used as power for the blue LED's. Was pretty nice not being tied down to one particular voltage. This should accommodate many types of breakout board's needs for the limit/home switch input/output.

Here's the video, enjoy. I will try and get a better video in the next coming weeks.



Jason