[memohope]

The diodes are not needed. The chip has them built in.

Why is the status of the diodes output is also the design incorrectly
Is it not better to put optical isolators after lpt then 74hc14
As drawing

http://robozone.su/uploads/posts/200...371706_sch.jpg

[jacksparow]

hello
i have bought a cnc 6040 4 axis in china but i have some problem :
only the z axis works in the 2 direction.
x,y,A axis sometimes work in one direction correctly and turn very slow with noises in the second direction, and sometimes they don't turn in any direction.
I use mach3 software.
I attache the picture of my control box and one of the power card.
I want some help as possible :drowning::
maybe a way to correct it or a diagram of the cnc power card
thanks

[zinkoxyde]

Sounds like you have your current limiting settings wrong for your steppers. Did it come with a manual?

[jzak3]

Thank you.

[Markwind]

hello
i have bought a cnc 6040 4 axis in china but i have some problem :
only the z axis works in the 2 direction.
x,y,A axis sometimes work in one direction correctly and turn very slow with noises in the second direction, and sometimes they don't turn in any direction.
I use mach3 software.
I attache the picture of my control box and one of the power card.
I want some help as possible :drowning::
maybe a way to correct it or a diagram of the cnc power card
thanks

does this board have seperate power supply? or is it direct to port
check output to drivers for +5vdc

[jzak3]

I have the tb6545 driver board and not the 6040 as you have, do you have 4 -6 or 8 wire stepper motors? you might want to make sure the motors you have are set up for either uni-polar or bi-polar and make sure you have all the motors wired the same a+ a- b+b- and it almost sounds as though you do not have the motors tuned in mach3 and that they are not set up with the correct stepping, go into mach3 and look under configuration and you will see a set up for motor tuneing make sure you have all the steps set up example on a 3/8 -10 acme shaft you will enter 2000 steps 65 ipm and acceleration of 30, who ever you bought the driver board from should have included some instructions. I hope this helps.and Iam sure there are others out there that have your style driver board, one last thing does your board have a series of dip switches? make sure all of those are set correctly for the same steps 1/8-1/4 1/2 steps

[jacksparow]

hello
the cnc is not came with any manual.
the supply is separate as you see in the picture.
the motors are 4 wire, i think they are bipolar and wired the same a+ a- b+ b-.
for the config see the picture attached.
please help me

[Markwind]

hello
the cnc is not came with any manual.
the supply is separate as you see in the picture.
the motors are 4 wire, i think they are bipolar and wired the same a+ a- b+ b-.
for the config see the picture attached.
please help me

Can you take HIGH Resolution better picture of this



also maybe step and direction pins mixed up from china in Mach3 or on board


also box says usb 5vdc ? where does this go in box ?

[jzak3]

Are you useing a usb cable from your pc to the driver board? and are you also useing windows vista in your pc? you may have to go on to the artsoft web site and downloaod the driver patch for this, You may want to look at that site. I am useing the old style printer port 25 pin setup.

[dwayner]

Good day to all.

I'm glad that I ran across this thread. It has saved me much time.

I was about to hijack most of the relevant content and start a new thread. This one is becoming a bit unwieldy.

However, I'll post here my version of the fix that doesn't require cutting traces.

Here's how: the Optos that feed the step and direction lines on the driver chip are configured as inverters. The easy fix is to simply remove those optos and wire the new inverters to the appropriate pins. You can even just stick wires into the opto sockets, going off to an inverter chip on a piece of veroboard (stripboard) or even one of those nylon plug-boards (what us old-timers call "SK-10 bread-board").

This fix solves two problems.

1) it gets rid of those slow optos.
2) It preserves the original design's signal polarity.

The other main fixes still stand: drop the value of the oscillator caps on the driver chips and replace the series diodes that feed each channel with fuses. Adding a couple of ground wires to the heatsink is easy - just scrape the solder mask from the ground traces on the bottom of the board and run a wire to one of the screws securing the driver chip to the heatsink. I did it twice just because it was so easy (two ground wires under two screws).

Speaking of diodes: the clamp diodes connecting to the motor leads on my boards look to be just ordinary rectifiers rather than high-speed diodes. I'm about to pull some of those diodes off of one of my boards and test them. If they are in fact just ordinary rectifier diodes, the prudent thing to do is to remove them. The driver chip's datasheet says that the diodes aren't needed - I can't offer an opinion on that yet. But having slow diodes on fast-moving lines is not a good thing.

Opinions?

dwayne