[Fastest1]

Look up heated silicone mats. I have one under a 14 X 14 piece of glass. You can have it made it any size. Flexible and self adhesive. Brisk Heat, out of Columbus, Ohio

[ImagineRobots]

Look up heated silicone mats. I have one under a 14 X 14 piece of glass. You can have it made it any size. Flexible and self adhesive. Brisk Heat, out of Columbus, Ohio

Interesting find but it's AC powered and cost $100 for a 12"x12" sheet.

[Fastest1]

Interesting find but it's AC powered and cost $100 for a 12"x12" sheet.

They make many versions, I just use a relay for the 120. But I am using a Gnexlab controller for that at the moment.

[slatronic]

I just ordered the 12v 30A psu that Hoss mentioned off of ebay. This way I can get my heated bed set up. Quick question, do I need to use special heat proof wire? I saw some place where people mention to use wire with fancy insulation. Gonna order a sheet of that glass too.

[LeeWay]

I just used heavy gauge automotive wire for my heat bed. Probably 14. It is the stuff that comes when you buy a trailer light kit from auto parts stores.
It barely gets warm and this is without any type of regulation. Just straight 12 VDC and a switch.

[hoss2006]

Here's a video I made a while back for getting Slic3r to print thin walls, i.e. 1mm thick.
Hoss

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbIRukbzMA8&list=UUjoRKEpk7uE5Wzf4b-IFTFg&index=1&feature=plcp]Reprap Prusa Tricking Slic3r for Thin Walls - YouTube[/ame]

[jerbro]

Hoss, it sounds like your machine is going round and round and never stopping to go up on the Z axis. Is it constantly moving and we just don't hear it?

My seemecnc h1 machine (as driven by mach3 on code output by slic3r) will do its walls, then stop, go up on the Z:, and start again. I'm having a terrible time with extra ABS sqeezing out during that time - and i've been playing with retraction amounts and speeds - but it sounds like your machine never stops to go up on the Z. Is what I'm hearing correct?

-Jeremy