thank you for the support mr. james,
I should have done my homework (reading the page) properly before asking you about it...
yeah, im just trying to make a controller by myself..so the questions.
Open source firmware and board layout freely available
Low parts-count and cost for home building
Low kit price to get running on a budget
Smooth / low resonance modes for better performance
Faster / more reliable operation w/ low cost surplus motors
thank you for the support mr. james,
I should have done my homework (reading the page) properly before asking you about it...
yeah, im just trying to make a controller by myself..so the questions.
actually im really the plug and play type fellow when it comes to electronics..
and this open source options is taking my nights away..
Im in india, do you deliver linisteppers here?
also im comparing 6560 bipolar boards from china...could you specify me the differences and limitations when comparing both?
hey,
iv built d linistepper...
if u still around, could u please send me a pic of your entire circuit with break out board n drivers connected together with the psu.
Kinda stuck at that part..
I can ship to India, just be sure to specify "outside the USA" when you order.
As to the 6560 boards from China, just search for the threads about them here on CNCZone and read to see all the problems people have. The biggest problem is that if you blow the driver, it's a huge cost to replace. You might as well toss the driver and buy again. On the Linistepper, I can sell the complete set of replacement drive transistors for $6, and they are commonly available TIP122 and BC337 transistors.
The Linistepper is also much smoother, with less hissing, vibration and motor heating.
On the other hand, the Linistepper is for smaller, unipolar only motors. It's designed to drive between 1 and 3 (at the most) amps at up to 36 volts. So a bit over 100 watts which is about enough to move a 15lb axis at 60IPS or a 30lb load at 30IPS. The 6560 is bipolar, so you get more torque at low speeds, but the torque drops off faster as you speed up. They typically won't spin as fast.
The connections are documented here:
techref.massmind.org/techref/io/stepper/linistep/lini_use.htm
And there is a nice, clickable block diagram here:
techref.massmind.org/techref/io/stepper/linistep/4axis5build.htm that shows how it all goes together.
hey mr. james,
Checked the cost of the pcbs with the shipping and the customs charges, here in mumbai..totally, it makes it a lil expensive for me to ship it to india.
so guess, for a while im stuck to building them myself..built the sam waters version but cant figure out the connection for ground, for the power supply...
Been asking a lot of "electronic guys" around, but no help.
But learning a lot about electronics!
this is what iv made till now..forgive me my shabbiness..
I don't know anything about the sam waters version (you should ask Sam Waters) but I would /assume/ that #1 is the motor and motor power supply connector, 2 is correct, and 3 is the power supply connector... not sure why 3 has so many pins...
Ground is generally the signal that connects to every component. The power supply is e.g. 12 volts or so and will hook to the LM7805 on the main board and to the motor common wire on the driver boards. The motor common / power supply positive connection isn't really connected to anything on the drivers other than a cap to ground, it's really only on the connector (typically, again I don't know the Sam Waters version) as a convenience and to provide a place for a cap to ground to help stabilize the supply for each motor.
Am really glad you replied...was finding it difficult to come up with a solution by myself...really helped.
Im using wires to connect the board to my driver..not tested them yet though.
And, wow that a real neat board uv built.
so are there any specific settings to set up the software ? (i was, actually giving up on running your version, till u replied)??
Just got another shipment of Linistepper kits in, so we have lots to ship! Check it out:
linistepper.com
hello james
what if one has a high inductance motor(13mH), current 2amps/phase and uses high voltages like 80-100volts to increase motor rpm = higher IPM (travel-cnc), can linistepper be used at these voltages or what should one do to getting the drive working at these spec.?
thanks
what about shipment time ? is it under 1 week ?Just got another shipment of Linistepper kits in, so we have lots to ship! Check it out:
linistepper.com
thanks
sahil
Higher voltage will give you a higher step rate, but even 80 volts is well past the 36 volt rating of the Linistepper and that amount of power (80*2=160 watts) is more than the Linisteppers maximum 100 watt rated power. For that sort of power, you really need to go to a geckodrive. At $61/driver, the Gecko is the next step up, but one you will need to take for that setup. The Linistepper can certainly run that motor at 2 amps, and up to 36 volts with a CPU fan for a heatsink on the drive transistors, but your IPM may be less.
James hosts the single best wiki page about steppers for CNC hobbyists on the net:
http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/steppers.htm Disagree? Tell him what's missing! ,o)
James hosts the single best wiki page about steppers for CNC hobbyists on the net:
http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/steppers.htm Disagree? Tell him what's missing! ,o)
Hi James, I have some of the V1 linistepper board / kits from you and like them just fine. I have always been curious though, have you considered to sell these as a finished, assembled driver ? That might be what holds off some people from using them.
My soldering skills are very - basic, so I used solder paste, which helps a lot compared to wire type solder, in fact it is so much better, I recommend it for anyone new to soldering.
Once I reached that point though, I found that I can solder 1206 size SMT components more easily than these older style wire based ones. ( I just reflow it all in a frying pan )
Thanks for offering such a nice hobby project kit and such a low price. Of course more power is always of interest.
Take care,
Harry
Hi Harry,
Thanks for the complement and suggestions.
The way I look at the Linistepper is that the people who can appreciate it are the same people who don't mind putting together a kit. The people who want an assembled and tested, ready to go, out of the box driver most likely don't appreciate the fact that the Linistepper is a brilliant design and is easy to repair if damaged. If you like the fact that you can repair it, then you don't mind building it. If you can't imagine being able to repair something, you don't want something you have to build. I hope that makes sense.
Now, your point on SMT soldering is very well taken; I totally agree with you and would love to see a SMT version of the driver (or just about any other kit) but... you and I are among the very few who realize how easy the larger SMT components can be to solder. If you mention SMT around most hobby electronics people, you can see them flinch! So as long as we sell it as a kit, it will probably be through hole.
I've thought about doing some of my boards (e.g. the 4 axis) in such a way that it can be built either through hole OR SMT. In fact, most of the components on the board can be done either way. e.g. you can solder a SMT resistor between the pads for the through hole resistors.
And you really can't get PCB's assembled at a reasonable price unless you can use SMT components anyway.
Well, it's interesting to think about, and thanks for your interest. As to more power, have you seen the SLAm stepper:
techref.massmind.org/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm ?
Best Wishes,
James.
James hosts the single best wiki page about steppers for CNC hobbyists on the net:
http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/steppers.htm Disagree? Tell him what's missing! ,o)
Hi James,
I would ask if possible I use chip IC SLA4060 which have 4 NPN Darlington Transistors 5A instead of TIP122 Transistors ? if yes ,do i need make any modification for Linistepper V2 driver circuit?
Note :
I have stepper motor 1.2A/Phase
Datasheet for SLA4060e
http://www.sanken-ele.co.jp/en/prod/...f/sla4060e.pdf
Thank you
I think Roman would have to answer that question. I'm not an analog power engineer. My best guess is that it would work ok for full and maybe halfstep modes, but that the microstepping in the PIC is tuned for the particular linear curve of the TIP122's and so the PWM tables would need to be edited and much testing done to get sequential rotation in those modes.
TIP122's don't cost that much do they?
James hosts the single best wiki page about steppers for CNC hobbyists on the net:
http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/steppers.htm Disagree? Tell him what's missing! ,o)