[Devastator]

I have a quick question, sorry if it might have been answered before but the thread is rather huge.

Is it ok to use a ribbon cable for the display? It seems to be a pretty standard one, and I have seen other equipment (music gear mostly) that has that kind of display connected by a ribbon cable.

I am putting all the CNC stuff (power supply, gecko, smoothstepper, super pid etc) in a box together, and it would work better for me that way.

Here you go...Devastator approved...

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy_cn...ics_box-3.html

[Mason8DF]

I bet that you also spent some time on the microchip.com forums..

[Mari1Kilroy]

That's what I did. Works great and I highly recommend it.

[Inkling]

I’m new to the CNC world and quickly became addicted. This is my first build and I’m anxious to get started. I have purchased most of the supplies I need including the Super-PID v2 and thought I would build the controller first. My electrical/electronic knowledge is basic at best and I could use some help.
Could you please take a look at my schematic and let me know if I’m headed in the right direction? My main issue is with grounding the super-PID and the other controller components. The computer power supply I’m using is an extra and separate from the PC that will control my machine.
I also wanted to thank Roman and all of you for the great product and advice.

[RomanLini]

Thanks everyone for helping with the tech questions during my absence.

Hi Inkling, re your circuit it is complex and does not show the terminal numbers so I can't check all parts of it.

The important points are as follows;
1. SuperPID, G540 and computer PSU all must share the same ground (connect their gnds together). Seems ok on your diagram.
2. SuperPID has 2 control wires;
RUN (is driven from a G540 digital output) seems ok.
SPEED (is a 0-5v analogue voltage, can be taken from G540 VFD output) seems ok
3. SuperPID sends out one signal; TACH (can go to a G540 digital input) seems ok
4. AC mains into the SuperPID (seems ok) and 2 AC wires out to the router (seems ok)

It looks like you have it nicely worked out, of course you will need to check the input and output pin assignments from the Mach3 PC parallel port to the G540 inputs/outputs. Generally those are setup in the Mach3 configs.

[Inkling]

I appreciate the response Roman. Thought I missed the boat on this topic.

Sorry about the complex drawing, I was just concerned about how all the grounds needed to come together. I think you answered my question as to the Super-PID grounding, "1. SuperPID, G540 and computer PSU all must share the same ground (connect their gnds together)".

I missed pointing out that the Super-PID will be in it's own plastic enclosure; the G540, it's power supply and the Super-PID power supply will be in a metal enclosure and the computer running Mach3 will not be connected to any of it other than the parallel port to the G540. I assume that it is not necessary to connect the computer case(PC ground) to the Super-PID ground, because it is using a separate power supply.

I may be over thinking this, but burning up electronics through trial and error can be costly and dangerous. Thank you all again.

[Al_The_Man]

The PC power supply (parallel port) common and the spindle motor neutral are common through the earth ground connection of each!.
It is normal to set up a central star point Earth Ground and take all the Earth grounds to it.
Strictly speaking, your AC socket earth grounds should go to this star point also.
Al.

[inventor83]

Proud new owner of a Super PID. I cut out a body for an electric violin out of ash and the PID performed smoothly. Very happy with my purchase. I was able to drill alignment pin holes through 2 inches of ash @5k rpm no problem(other than a bit of screeching). I have a PC690 router.

Is there any way to 'extract' more power from my new setup(super PID/PC690) by increasing the mains voltage?? Currently at 120VAC

One more question.

I have mach3 turning on/off the router right now. When I run a gcode everything works fine(router turns on/off), the question is how can I turn ON/OFF my router with a button or other means in the mach3 software without having to run a gcode(or switching to manual mode on PID)?

Thanks!
Matt

[RicknBeachcrest]

Proud new owner of a Super PID. I cut out a body for an electric violin out of ash and the PID performed smoothly. Very happy with my purchase. I was able to drill alignment pin holes through 2 inches of ash @5k rpm no problem(other than a bit of screeching). I have a PC690 router.

Is there any way to 'extract' more power from my new setup(super PID/PC690) by increasing the mains voltage?? Currently at 120VAC

One more question.

I have mach3 turning on/off the router right now. When I run a gcode everything works fine(router turns on/off), the question is how can I turn ON/OFF my router with a button or other means in the mach3 software without having to run a gcode(or switching to manual mode on PID)?

Thanks!
Matt

Pressing this button (see attached pic)always does it for me.
I'm also using a pc690. I have Mach3 control the speed.
Check out my build log for more details.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wo...ter_build.html

rick

[ger21]

The F5 key should also turn it on and off.

[Susan673]

Small world, as James sold me your LiniStepper..

[inventor83]

Thanks for the tips.

A few more questions regarding the Super PID.

When I start a program, they spindle(PC690) starts up automatically. It starts at a much lower speed than the set speed(manual or PWM). I am concerned that the machine will begin to plunge into the material when the spindle speed is too low causing it to stall. I have had this happen, minus the stall. Is there a solution for this?

Second question

How much 'power' roughly is there at say 15000rpm using the Super PID vs Full out max 27500rpm for my PC690? 80%, more, less??

Question Three
How fast does the Super PID react to fluctuations in rpm and load? From what I have noticed, it take a second or so for mine to react to an increase in the speed pot. Is this normal?

Sorry for all the questions, just some things I have on my mind and cant seem to find any clear explanations. I appreciate the help

Thanks
Matt

[cd_edwards]

You need to set a startup delay in Mach3 which causes the program to wait for that length of time before movement.

[Zouave]

I've been working on going through the forum to find a solution to this, but haven't come across it just yet. So here's my problem:

I am using a PMDX-126 as my breakout board, and running Mach3. I'm using a charge pump to activate the outputs on the PMDX (inactive until charge pump is triggered). When power is applied to the control box, the router turns on (at 5000 rpm). This is before the PMDX is active, as none of the outputs are active until the charge pump is triggered by Mach3. I had thought that drawing the +5v for the SuperPID from the PMDX would mean that the SuperPID wouldn't be active until the charge pump is applied, but that was apparently incorrect. So now, once Mach3 is running, I can switch the router on and off as normal, but I want to get rid of the situation whereby the router starts up as soon as power is applied to my control box.
I'm also curious why a +5v signal is required to turn the router off, it would seem more logical to have the +0v state be the OFF, and the +5v to be ON. Seems rather odd to me to have the un-powered state be the default on, as it is (as I've discovered) prone to turning on when something should be going off.
Thoughts?
I've considered running the power to the router through the relay on the PMDX, but would like to avoid that if possible if another solution is easier, as I'm not entirely sure how those signals would play with each other, to activate the Run on the SuperPID AND trigger the relay on the PMDX with the same command.

[Devastator]

My SuperPID has been acting up lately. Instead of the soft start like it used to do before it settled in to the set RPM, now my router jolts at startup. Sounds like it chokes for a split second, pulling a ton of amps before settling in. The shop lights actually flicker because of the draw. Anybody have any ideas?

[Rooski]

I found mine started doing the same thing. played with settings and nothing fixed it. Then i noticed it was getting progressively worse which made me think there was something wrong inside the router itself.

I pulled the cover off and found that a chunk of electrical tape had been rubbing on the surface where my white paint was. As the white paint got scuffed more and more, the choking at startup got worse and worse. I repainted it and reassembled (without the piece of tape stuck in there) and it has worked good ever since....

Well, that's until I installed some homing switches and I must have buggered a setting somewhere because now I have no rpm control from S commands. Back to the drawing board.

[SuperPID]

If fine dust is covering the RPM sensor the router will sound like it suddenly revs up
to full speed. Compressed air is the easiest way to clean dust off the RPM sensor.

Run the "Spindle View" Test. Tests the White and Black paint, and checks the RPM sensor.

As Spindle View is the default screen after 5 volt power-up it is easy to run a quick
spindle view test before using your machine. Ensure AC mains is disconnected first!


"Spindle View Test" - Page 11 of SuperPID-v2 Instructions.

SAFETY FIRST! Always disconnect the AC mains before turning the router spindle by hand.

Router turned off at mains (ideally AC disconnected). Super-PID running 5 volts ONLY.
Manually turn the router spindle by hand and check the WHITE paint (full bar graph)
and BLACK paint (minimum bar graph) on the LCD bar graph. Sometimes you also need to
paint the BLACK section as the spindle black may not be enough contrast.

Visually check the WHITE and BLACK paint areas. Ensure only one White paint section
and no bleed over or smudged area of white paint, ie. a sharp line transition from
White to Black paint and then Black to White on the opposite side.

If dust is covering the RPM sensor the bar graph will not display correctly, more
likely a low bar graph almost all the time as router spindle is turned by hand.

Air clean the RPM sensor and repeat the Spindle View Test.


"Open-Loop Mode" (OP mode) - Pages 7, 27, 28 of SuperPID-v2 Instructions.

Open-Loop mode is handy for running the router in basic mode for an emergency.
Such as dust covered RPM sensor or damaged paint sections etc. Open-Loop mode
allows you to complete a job if you do not have the time to fix the problem.

Open-Loop mode ignores the RPM sensor signal and allows the speed control knob
to control the router power. This a simple open-loop system, it does not allow
full router power at low speeds.


RPM sensor mounting

Please everyone ensure that your RPM sensors are securely mounted inside your
router. Constant vibration of the router can cause the sensor to move and risk
munching into the high-speed spindle.

We are looking into new options for securing the RPM sensor and the polycarbonate
tubing into place. For now, a cable tie around the cable to hold the RPM sensor
at the correct height inside the polycarbonate tubing. Then silastic/silicone
everything securely into place.

The polycarbonate tubing helps to keep the sensor protected and straight. The
legs of the RPM sensor are very delicate and can easily break if over bent.


Best of luck with it.
Cheers!

www.SuperPID.com - SuperPID-Tech-Info-Support-FAQ-Downloads.htm

[inventor83]

I devised a unique method of mounting my sensor into my PC690. I will post pictures at a later time but.. I used a ring crimp connector to mount the sensor inside the router. I fed the sensor and wire through the crimp 'hole' in the crimp connector and crimped as normal with my crimpers.(thats alot of crimps in one sentence...) Then I mounted the 'screw hole end' of the connector to a bracket that I made that went from a threaded hole on the top of the metal body of the router.

The advantage here was the unlimited ability of mounting freedom. I could place the sensor at any angle simply by bending the crimp connector. The crimp connectors are made from a metal that is meant to be somewhat soft and malleable. It has been working perfect for me thus far..

Hope I described it well enough.. sounded good as a wrote it but im sure im missing something, pictures would do a better job.

Matt

[Devastator]

Run the "Spindle View" Test. Tests the White and Black paint, and checks the RPM sensor.

Yup that was it. Not dust though....the sensor had backed out just a bit so the distance was too large. Thanks for the support!

[Pysiek]

I set up SuperPID and Mach3. I'm using USB cable for the +5V. One cable goes from pin13 on my C10 breakoutboard to PWM terminal on SuperPID board. VS and POT terminals joined together. Another cable goes from pin1 on C10 to RUN terminal on SuperPID board.
And here is my problem: When I try to adjust spindle speed in Mach3 it won't do nothing. When I load GCode with spindle speed specified as 16000RPMs in it , it will show in Mach3 16000 but the actual speed on SuperPID shows as 20000RPM.
In "motor outputs" tab I checked "spindle" and entered "step pin#" as pin13 and "step port" as 1.
In "spindle setup" tab i checked under "motor control" , "use spindle motor output" and "PWM Control"
Next in "Output signals" tab I checked "Output #1" and entered "port#" as 1 and "Pin Number" as 1 (pin1 on my C10 board).
What I did wrong?