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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122

    3D printer update for Skip20

    I'm back after a long rest.
    Just finished building the MakerFarm Laser i3 8"
    A few problems came up, but now she laying down her layers.





    And stat a build on a larger machine.



    More to come, I hope.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Here's the latest update on the KS build.
    Been redoing the "X" drive setup.
    Elec is all hooked up, but have problems with the ramp board.
    The LCD Screen is not showing text & I get a SD Card error which kills the machine.



    - - - Updated - - -

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    Wow,
    I really like the build. As it is custom design so i am more interested. I also want to build one like yours so will be a good follower of your progress thread.
    Can you tell what electronics you are using. What you are using at hot-end/extruder.
    Regards
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by skip20 View Post
    Here's the latest update on the KS build.
    Been redoing the "X" drive setup.
    Elec is all hooked up, but have problems with the ramp board.
    The LCD Screen is not showing text & I get a SD Card error which kills the machine.



    - - - Updated - - -
    Thank you.
    The "KS" is for "King Size" or Skip Koons!
    The basic framing are 1" x " 80/20 I had laying around here. Built the frame the fit the rails
    The slide rails (Ebay) are 17" long & come with 3 trunk each. Made deal for $50.00 a pair ( USED ), are from a T-Shirt Printer I started a few years ago, got them off eBay as are most of the parts & the electronics ( China ).
    The 8mm screws are 36", to be cut down later with custom built leadscrew plate machine from 1/2" Nylon, Have some 3/4" Black Acetal Acetyl Delrin Block (eBay) coming in which is not cheap but better for the blocks, will last longer. Saw the design on eBay!
    The "X" is 1/2" X 2' Alum bar when I got at local metal shop.
    Steppers are frame 17 off of the web.
    Got the Ramps "1.4 + A4988 + Mega2560 R3 + Endstop + Cooler Fan Kit For RepRap 3D Printer" off eBay. Sell for $189.00 buy now, got bid foe $131.00.
    The print head is "New 0.4mm Nozzle Extruder Print Head for 3D Printer Reprap Mendel" ( China ) $66.00 Buy now, these a better one for about $75.00, I like the small size of it.
    By the way, this is being built backwards, you are looking at the back side the picture above shows the front.
    Don't know why everyone shows off all of the steppers & rails.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    My 3D printer is on CAD software. It will also be custom and i am going to fabricate the hot end with extrude myself. I want to order the above electronics, if you find anything that is less in above please suggest me.
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    161
    Nice printer! Just a small suggestion, replace the spring type couplers for rigid ones, a friend did that with it's own and the layer height accuracy improves a bit.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    New redesign.
    Moved the steppers to the top to get the print head down lower.
    Also made "Z" screw mounts out of Black Acetal Acetyl Delrin Block.
    Now to figure out the table "Y" setup.
    Tested the motors using the RAMP board setup.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    What are you using as a heating bed. Presently PCB based heating beds are 220mm x 220mm dimensions.
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    What are you using as a heating bed. Presently PCB based heating beds are 220mm x 220mm dimensions.
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Mounted a 1/4" 2 x 7" to the 2 bearing trucks on each "Y" axial This will rise it up to clear the RAMP board mounted next to it.
    Jig saw the 1/4" bottom mounting plate. Will mount the 6061 Alum plate on top of it with unknown heater at this time between them.




    This shows I'm still working with CNC router table. This one will be for PCB cutting 12" x 12"
    Right now it's stage for the RAMP board setup & a new RUMBO board setup & a few other thing.
    You know, a clean flat surface !!!!

    This shows I'm still working with CNC router table. This one will be for PCB cutting 12" x 12".
    Right now it's used for storage for the "RAMP" board setup & new "RUMBO" board setup w/ power supply's.
    And a few other things.
    You know, a clean flat surface!!!!


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Been working on my 3D KS Printer on & off between other projects to finish up.
    Got orders for a few Honda GoldWing Trike Body's, so been fiberglassing them.
    Here is where I was at this morning.



    There's some up/down slop in the the "X" axles with the head unit.
    So new upgrade was in order.
    Remove the cross bar & built a new one with 2 skid rails.
    You may notice that the will be 2 - head units now
    Will lose 3" of travel, but will be able to Clone 2 parts at the same time.
    They will be connected with a bar when in use.
    That will give 16 " travel as one head or 2 - 8" when cloning.
    Also got read of the slop in the single rail with 1 bearing truck.
    It now has 2 each trucks on each head.



    Will also redo the head & belt mount so it will look better, plus one more for the other slide w/o belt mount.
    The "Z" motor wiring fit nicely into the 80/20 groove & will cover them with some black vinyl .
    The "X" wiring will go over to the "Z" screw then up to the top & back down to the controller.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    6855
    Very cool machine build! 3dStuffzone.com - The Front Page

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Latest update:
    Finished to 2 print head mounts & belt drive.
    The 2 heads are connect with a 1/2" bar which will be bolted downwhen in use.
    Otherwise head #2 will be locked down to the far right (as in picture) when not used. Note idler wheel on it.
    Lower "Z" screw now have there bearing mounted to base.
    The "Y" plate is bolted to rails with the belt mounted. The 6061 plate is ready to go.
    For the time being will use 4 - 8 x 8 heating pad as pairs with 24 VDC




  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Here is a short video with my old camera which I was have problem with before.

    3D KS printer (king size) Build - YouTube

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    New one #3


  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Using 1/2" wood, I trimmed out the edges building a 4" base to clear the controller & P/S mounted under it.
    Trim some space on the bottom for air flow.. Came up the rear sides with 1/2" x 4" & & 1/2" x 2'around the top.
    Cut an 1/8" slit in the edge to slide in 1/8" plex on the sides. There will be 1" x 1" alum on the corners.
    Anything was glued & nailed, but the top panel will be screwed on so it is removable for any repairs
    More to come as I'm having to wait for the stain & the 3 coats of semi gloss clean to dry.


  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    Ordered the plastic parts off eBay & they look really good.
    Rostock Printed Parts 3D Printer PLA Airtripper Extruder Taulman Bushings RepRap | eBayI broke one of the forks for the rod & he replaced it quickly at no charge. Great guy to deal with.
    Drilled out all of the 3mm holes & had to sand the joint & hot tip mounting pale to fit only
    Went to together very easy with a lot on 3mm nuts & bolts.
    Found the design of the box on Thingiverse & made a few changes to fit my need.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    Skip,
    You are doing a great job on both types of 3d printers. If someone post in your thread and you do not respond then people loose interest in the build. I have posted few posts back but got no reply. If you need viewer attentions and attractions then IMHO we should give them honor by replying.
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

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