[zmajmr]

So here is a new video, update. (its still processing so give it a bit after the post update to make sure it works).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYDU...ature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oDX...ature=youtu.be

Over the weekend I took apart the ballscrews, cleaned them, inspected them, and then reassembled them.

I tried dawn soap, and simple green to see which would work better, SIMPLE GREEN WON....

You can see in the pics how dirty they were, and how clean they now are . I inspected them and to my amazement, they were tight with no play at all. The bearings looked great and the shaft looked great also.

I am currently painting the underneath of the beds right now. 3 Coats of allsurface oil based enamel primer, and 2 coats allsurface oil based enamel BLACK low sheen. I am hand painting the underside, but the rest will be sprayed on for better finish and coverage.

I still have lots of work to do!

On the weekends I am training myself on how to use linuxcnc. Great program, goodbye mach 3 hello linux!

At this rate everything will be painted this week and starting the reassembly next week. So we are about 3 weeks out from being 100% done. (We will see how that works out haha

Not much more to report other then prepping the parts to paint is a pain, but worth it, so do it right!

Wheres your updates MARCO?! I wanna see some more EMCO! :cheers:

Hi Mike,

nice update, camera is much better then iPhone. I will be really amazed if you finish all work for 3 weeks.

I tried lot of things for cleaning and for me gasoline is most effective by my opinion, it is not healthy but what can you do (latex glaves lasts about 5 min when gasoline touche them so you basically can use bear hands or some special gloves, I cleaned every single bolt, screw and nut so best feeling to work is with bear hands .

I have plane to use some kind of 2 component primer from Hempel, and I prefer your original color, it in some way relax my eyes, I love when I work to have light and white reflects light so you have feeling that you have more light, I hope you understand me what I am trying to say.

Today cleaned spindle encoder (rough cleaning, it is cold now so will wait for warm weather to clean it better). Tomorrow will mount 3 phase motor so will put short video of VFD and how motor powers spindle.

Keep good work, I am really happy to watch your vids.

:cheers:

[mike^3]

Sounds good Marco,

Ya 3 weeks is pushing it LOL.

It will take another week to put is all together, then I have to weld up and paint a frame. Then put all the electroincs in LOL

Kinda a lot still

Mike

[mike^3]

UPDATE!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR4-...ature=youtu.be

Heres an update of painting the base, ill up a video tonight ;D.

Heres the bases coated underneath. In progress painting, a 1inch brush works alot better here because of the narrow deep areas

I used 3 coats white all surface primer (its like liquid, didn't like it much, its too runny), then 2 coats Rustoleum rusty colored primer, with the same rust colored top coat for the underneath.

I will be painting all top pieces in this order:

(3) primer coats with Rustoleum Rusty color, in between each coat I will be wet sanding with 600 grit.
The rustoleum will be mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits for ease of application and quick drying.

I will then be painting (3) top coats of Rustoleum top coat smoke grey.
I will also be sanding between each coat.
I will let sit for 24 hours after the final coat before I handle the pieces.

I will be brushing them, I wanted to spray them but there are too many spots where the paint would run if not super careful, and I still have to wet sand, so might as well brushes it on .

I have some last pieces to clean off.

I just ordered some black manganese Phosphate to coat the original black manganese Phosphate pieces back to original, such as the Z axis ballscrew cover, and all the bolts and screws.

It takes a lot of prep work to make a great manganese Phosphate coating, but it will be great when its done! I will make a video of how I do it, and the results

Thanks everyone!

Mike

[mike^3]

UPDATE!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR4-...ature=youtu.be

Heres an update of painting the base, ill up a video tonight ;D.

Heres the bases coated underneath. In progress painting, a 1inch brush works alot better here because of the narrow deep areas

I used 3 coats white all surface primer (its like liquid, didn't like it much, its too runny), then 2 coats Rustoleum rusty colored primer, with the same rust colored top coat for the underneath.

I will be painting all top pieces in this order:

(3) primer coats with Rustoleum Rusty color, in between each coat I will be wet sanding with 600 grit.
The rustoleum will be mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits for ease of application and quick drying.

I will then be painting (3) top coats of Rustoleum top coat smoke grey.
I will also be sanding between each coat.
I will let sit for 24 hours after the final coat before I handle the pieces.

I will be brushing them, I wanted to spray them but there are too many spots where the paint would run if not super careful, and I still have to wet sand, so might as well brushes it on .

I have some last pieces to clean off.

I just ordered some black manganese Phosphate to coat the original black manganese Phosphate pieces back to original, such as the Z axis ballscrew cover, and all the bolts and screws.

It takes a lot of prep work to make a great manganese Phosphate coating, but it will be great when its done! I will make a video of how I do it, and the results

Thanks everyone!

Mike

[zmajmr]

UPDATE!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR4-...ature=youtu.be

Heres an update of painting the base, ill up a video tonight ;D.

Heres the bases coated underneath. In progress painting, a 1inch brush works alot better here because of the narrow deep areas

I used 3 coats white all surface primer (its like liquid, didn't like it much, its too runny), then 2 coats Rustoleum rusty colored primer, with the same rust colored top coat for the underneath.

I will be painting all top pieces in this order:

(3) primer coats with Rustoleum Rusty color, in between each coat I will be wet sanding with 600 grit.
The rustoleum will be mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits for ease of application and quick drying.

I will then be painting (3) top coats of Rustoleum top coat smoke grey.
I will also be sanding between each coat.
I will let sit for 24 hours after the final coat before I handle the pieces.

I will be brushing them, I wanted to spray them but there are too many spots where the paint would run if not super careful, and I still have to wet sand, so might as well brushes it on .

I have some last pieces to clean off.

I just ordered some black manganese Phosphate to coat the original black manganese Phosphate pieces back to original, such as the Z axis ballscrew cover, and all the bolts and screws.

It takes a lot of prep work to make a great manganese Phosphate coating, but it will be great when its done! I will make a video of how I do it, and the results

Thanks everyone!

Mike

Hi Mike , nice update, congrats to your mom , you can not see that every day , mom helps you with machines.

If I were on your place I would just clean pulleys (wd 40 and 1000 grid sand paper is good for removing rust), I taped my spindle when I was trying rust converter (it is some kind of acid) and eventually little of that liquid manged to pass under overlap of protective tape and the spindle was not even submersed in liquid , so I do not know what will happen if you have plan to hot blu your pulleys (as I know you need to submerses parts in hot liquid with salts) so maybe it is risky and you will have more problems then what you will get from esthetic look.

Keep your videos coming. I would like that other helpers to you from forum write their advices maybe I learn something that I do not know.

Do you need to buy VFDs or you have them with machines? I saw some motors in background of you pictures , they look massive.

:cheers:

[mike^3]

Hey Marco,

I think you and 2 other ppl are the only ones chatting back LOL.

I will have to purchase 2 vfds to run the motors, I sold the old drives, they were a pain anyways.

My vfd's will be 7.5hp 3phase in 3phase out. I have 3 phase at my house using a rotary phase converter. I have built a few RPC's and purchased some. They work great.

I will be powering it with a 20 hp RPC.

You can also hook up single phase 240 to the motor but it will only be rated for half the HP.

The spindle motors at 7.5hp (I think, ill have to look at the name plate to be sure, they may be 10hp

I love my MOM! Keep in mind I amworking adult haha. But I am a family man and love help from the family ;D

I chose not to blue the spindle pulley, Ill just make sure I coat it with water displacing oil, so it will prevent rust.

Priming the bases right now, ill upload some videos in the next couple of days.

See ya Marco!

Mike

[mike^3]

Massive Update

So I misplaced my camera after I took a lot of video and pics, so when I find it, I will upload them LOL.

So I paint the bases, cut the 0.015" shim, put the dovetail back on, removed the turcite from the saddle (it was peeling), ordered new turcite B (I will be showing a video of how to apply it, and scrap for alignment.

I also primed the headstocks, (going to paint today), started pulling off the old bearing off the spindle. I received the bluing chemicals and will be bluing most parts next week.

I starting working on the electronics for linux, there is definitely a learning curve, but well worth it.

So I just found my camera!

here are some pics!!!!!

Videos will be up tonight!

[zmajmr]

I like the color of base. Good work, waiting for vids. I was curious what will happen after grinding bedways, now I know , you need to use shims underneath bedways.

I guess sandpaper and wd - 40 are working good, parts look like new

:cheers:

[mike^3]

Yup Marco, lots of elbow grease. Parts do look and operate as if new, I won't let it go back together without everything being in tip top shape, otherwise there is no point to rebuild or retrofit a machine with half ass work.

I like the almond color also, way better then grey or black. Its very close to the original hardinge color , most of the videos are still uploading, ill post the links shortly

[tjb1]

So much cleaning!

I had the idea of pressure washing the underside of the lathe, it works well, but...the oil underneath the lathes is literally caked on. I will let some industrial parts cleaner degreaser sit over night, and try to clean it tomorrow.

Tired for today, upside is the ways are going to be reground tomorrow! WHOOT!

I also have one race stuck inside the spindle, not sure how to get that out . I can't get anything behind it. Perhaps I will get a turnbuckle and wedge the heads again the inner ball bearing rides then hit it out from the rear. Worth a try

Mike

Samco, thanks for the tips, when I sell one of these machines I will have to provide tech support as well as repair and mod advice. I am not confident at all about my expertise with LINUXCNC. I wish there was a well put together manual that would help new people with it...

http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/2.5/pdf...tor_Manual.pdf

There ya go.

[mike^3]

Hey thank u, since this post i have found lots of help through the irc channel and on the Linux site, I worked a lot over the weekend on the pc side, large learning curve, but I am definantly going with Linux cnc over mach 3.

[mike^3]

Update!

So We got a lot of work done, about to turcite the base and blue the parts.

I got the race out, and spindles are about to be put in. I will make a video of all that

videos

This is bluing part 1

update - YouTube

This is turcite part 1

MVI 0133 - YouTube

[zmajmr]

Hi Mike

it was interesting to watch second video, I saw other videos on your channel, good work.

Those steel brushes work properly only on higher speed, you need speed of angle grinder.

I was wondering why you do not put / mount turcite in one piece (complet sheet) on larger surface, and you can cut excess for oil channels.
Strip for side I would cut as you, but maybe it is easier larger surface to put in one piece.
You apply glue only on high spot , not in oil channels so you can easily cut or hand grind material that is over oil channel.

I am just uploading video about bearings , before I used wmv format, but it take to long to upload so now I record video in mp4 format (it is H.264 640 x 480), video files are smaller so it uploads faster and video quality is pretty OK.

Keep good work, it is interesting to watch videos. Never heard for turcite till your thread.

[mike^3]

Hey Marco,

Well, the process of applying the turcite is tricky, expensive, and hard to fix it u mess up. So it's better for me if I do it in sections. This way I can prep, mix, apply, then move on.

You are right if u get any of the glass bead impregnated export into the oil port, your screwed.

Also I just saw a really cool chnc that had the spindle blued! It looked great, Mind u it was only the end that was blued not the entire shaft.

Ill upload videos and pics tonight!
Thanks for following Marco!

I'm glad I'm not just doing this for nothing

[zmajmr]

Hey Marco,

Well, the process of applying the turcite is tricky, expensive, and hard to fix it u mess up. So it's better for me if I do it in sections. This way I can prep, mix, apply, then move on.

You are right if u get any of the glass bead impregnated export into the oil port, your screwed.

Also I just saw a really cool chnc that had the spindle blued! It looked great, Mind u it was only the end that was blued not the entire shaft.

Ill upload videos and pics tonight!
Thanks for following Marco!

I'm glad I'm not just doing this for nothing

Hey Mike, definitely I am following, be sure it is not for nothing. 1 picture is like 1000 words, 1 movie is even more then that
Definitely some good info about paint job, need to see bluing, maybe I will do it myself, have bunch of things from machine which I brushed to the bare metal and would be nice to make them look nice.

:wave:

[mike^3]

Hey Marco,

Not much to update lately, its Christmas today, spending lots of time with the family

So as of now I parkerized a lot of parts, but it turned out rougher than I liked, so I ordered some Brownell's Oxpho Blue which I will be using instead.

I am getting close to finishing haha.

Got a link to your latest vid?

Also thanks again for following

[zmajmr]

Hey Marco,

Not much to update lately, its Christmas today, spending lots of time with the family

So as of now I parkerized a lot of parts, but it turned out rougher than I liked, so I ordered some Brownell's Oxpho Blue which I will be using instead.

I am getting close to finishing haha.

Got a link to your latest vid?

Also thanks again for following

Hi

Happy Christmas, check this out

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertic...ml#post1401202

Look the freshest video in thread, it is guy from Germany , look how he mounts bearings.

[Deano7/11]

Looking good. If you still haven't got your screws sorted just get done made. I retrofitted a mill and got 3 20mm screws with double nuts made to my specs of end design and tolerance etc by PMI in toss an. Requested c3 precision and got c3 on 2 screws and c1 on the other. Comes with testing cert and all. Cost me $2000aud for all 3 (bout $1600usd) this included air freight. One was 1300mm the other 450mm and 350mm all with double nut preloaded from factory. Only way to go

[mike^3]

Hi thanks for the reference, the ballscrews are in great condition.

But where did u get ur ballscrews from?

Thanks

Mike

[Deano7/11]

From pmi in Taiwan. Bloody iPhone corrective text changed it in my last post. Just got them ordered through my local pmi distributor