[tjb1]

I did a quick search on QU-BD failures and found many links. This is just the first one I found:
buildlog.net ? View topic - QU-BD MBE Extruder Failure Analysis

I may try switching to ABS, see if it works any better, but that means I need to build my hot bed onto my CNC machine.. Just more work.

Since I still have to use my router as a router, I switch back and forth so the machine is not pretty. I've got it setup now that i just pull the hot head off with 2 bolts, and a bunch of wires, then bolt the router back on. I just need to print about 30 more parts and I'll be done. Could take years...

3D Printing a part for work on my RepStrap CNC machine - YouTube

I just wish I could find a CNCable version of a Reprap that I could cut from MDF or plastic cutting boards. The one I found that was all CNC was just looked too complex to build since it only used 1 Z axis motor, and a long belt. And it hasn't been supported in years. http://reprap.org/wiki/Isaac

I looked at the Prusa I3, but I couldn't really find clear instructions. It looks like the parts need to created using some tool based on the thickness of the material used for the frame. I just did a quick read, so I may be wrong. But the main frame would be easy enough to CNC, but I'm still stuck with some 3d parts that I would still have to print.

Anyway. Hoss Keep up the great work. Your threads are always very helpful and I'm always impressed with your creativity.

-C

p.s. Hoss I just saw this online.. Turn Your 3D Printer Into a Laser Cutter / Engraver - CNCCookbook CNC Blog CNCCookbook CNC Blog I expect to see this added to one of your machines any day now.

I have an i3 that I run, if you needed any help with building one I could point you to everything you need.

[Miata2k]

I have an i3 that I run, if you needed any help with building one I could point you to everything you need.

TJB1,
Thanks for the offer, but I just finished building an i2 back on the 8th. It has been sitting, waiting, calling for me to start it, but X-mas shopping is getting in the way.

I have a 6 day weekend starting this Friday, so hopefully I'll have some time to make it go.

I really wanted to build and I3 when I started shopping for plastic parts on e-bay, but I couldn't find good drawings to use to CNC the frame. How did you build your machine?

The picture attached was before I was finished. Wire routing has been a legalistic nightmare, I need to get some loom an some hoses. I'm still a little fuzzy on how well the "PRUSA MKII" hot end is going to work stuffed up into the bottom of the extruder filament pusher thing.

I bought the same electronics that Hoss has, so I'm hoping that they will work great!

Thanks
-C

Attachment 213910

[tjb1]

TJB1,
Thanks for the offer, but I just finished building an i2 back on the 8th. It has been sitting, waiting, calling for me to start it, but X-mas shopping is getting in the way.

I have a 6 day weekend starting this Friday, so hopefully I'll have some time to make it go.

I really wanted to build and I3 when I started shopping for plastic parts on e-bay, but I couldn't find good drawings to use to CNC the frame. How did you build your machine?

The picture attached was before I was finished. Wire routing has been a legalistic nightmare, I need to get some loom an some hoses. I'm still a little fuzzy on how well the "PRUSA MKII" hot end is going to work stuffed up into the bottom of the extruder filament pusher thing.

I bought the same electronics that Hoss has, so I'm hoping that they will work great!

Thanks
-C

Attachment 213910

I bought a kit off eBay that included a cut aluminum frame and y plate but the files are available on the github. It takes some digging but they are there in DXF format and every piece needed can be generated from the files using openscad. I originally had a Makergear Prusa(i2) but I hated it, it was my first printer and I didn't know much and I had so much trouble getting the bed level.

Then after learning some more, I printed the parts to make a Kossel(now known as the Legacy Kossel) on the school commercial printers and used it for a while. It had/has dimensional issues that I can't iron out so I built my i3 which I love, it's just a little slow. My Kossel uses the Makergear Groovemount hotend with a bowden and an Airtripper V3 extruder. The i3 started life with a Wades extruder and Budaschnozzle hotend and now is using a Wades extruder with an E3D all metal hotend. Happily printing PLA and ABS, I have some Polycarbonate on order and may grab some Taulmans Nylon and Ninjaflex flexible filament to play around with.

Also have a 24v supply along with a Taurino(Arduino Mega clone that supports 12-35v) and some 24v blower fans on order to use with my MK2B so I don't have to wait all day for the bed to get to 100c.

If you want to start using these new materials, I would recommend getting an E3D. The assembly temp to get the nozzle tight is 320 C so it can handle quite a bit without issues. Just a little difficult to get PLA through it, but it does beautiful with ABS. Just a warning, do not attempt materials like Nylon, PC, or the Flexible stuff with a peek hotend as you are quickly approaching/going past the melting temperature. Peek is really only good for PLA/ABS/PET.

[Miata2k]

Just a warning, do not attempt materials like Nylon, PC, or the Flexible stuff with a peek hotend as you are quickly approaching/going past the melting temperature. Peek is really only good for PLA/ABS/PET.

The Prusa nozzle is an all metal hot end. I ordered it with hopes to print some of the fancy stuff. I didn't know about the E3D until after I had the Prusa in hand.
Prusa Nozzle

[tjb1]

The Prusa nozzle is an all metal hot end. I ordered it with hopes to print some of the fancy stuff. I didn't know about the E3D until after I had the Prusa in hand.
Prusa Nozzle

You should use a geared extruder if you plan on using PLA, you can probably get away with direct drive if you stick to ABS but I tried PLA from 165C-225C and had nothing but stripped filament with direct drive. Went back to my Wades and put some pretty heavy springs on the idler and it worked just fine, didn't work as good as my Buda but that is to be expected and it should be very close with some more tuning.

[hoss2006]

I've been using PLA with a direct drive extruder and J-head no problem on my OB14, run 185-195C and never had any stripping with it.
That was a reason I didn't use a wades this time, the wades would strip on the PLA too easy, got sick and tired of having to take it apart to clean out the hob.
Hoss

[tjb1]

I've been using PLA with a direct drive extruder and J-head no problem on my OB14, run 185-195C and never had any stripping with it.
That was a reason I didn't use a wades this time, the wades would strip on the PLA too easy, got sick and tired of having to take it apart to clean out the hob.
Hoss

The direct drive wont work with PLA and an all metal extruder though. I use Wades with a Hyena hobbed bolt.

[hoss2006]

Yes heat transfer from the stepper thru the hob could deform the PLA with direct drive which is why I put a fan on my extruder stepper, keeps it ice cold
and would bet it would work fine on the all metal version too.
Hoss

[tjb1]

Yes heat transfer from the stepper thru the hob could deform the PLA with direct drive which is why I put a fan on my extruder stepper, keeps it ice cold
and would bet it would work fine on the all metal version too.
Hoss

I see you are using 3mm, I am using 1.75 so maybe that is part of the problem because of the speed required to get the same extrusion. I still would guess you would have trouble getting PLA through an all-metal with a direct drive. The all-metals aren't really made to do PLA but its possible if you get the right setup. The main problem is how rough(compared to PTFE) the bore is and causes a lock up when the PLA expands and fills the bore. I was able to do about 20 layers before my direct drive would give up through the whole temperature range. I think at around 190C I was able to get about 40 layers before it died but I wasn't able to replicate that. My normal extrusion temp on my Budaschnozzle is right around 170, I was able to do that with the E3D while using the Wades setup. Only problem I have now is the small gear on Wades keeps coming loose on the motor, hopefully fixing that tonight.

What is holding your fan onto the stepper? I believe I printed one of those but it was a very very loose fit on the motor so I just tossed it in a box but I do have a heat issue on the motor. I measured it getting to 147 F so I was going to put heatsinks all around it with thermal paste and using strands of wire to hold them on.

I will have a Taurino arriving today but it doesn't look like the 24v supply will be here until Friday and I am off all next week and will be at parents so printers will be down for a week. I was really getting tired of waiting for the bed to heat up to 100C with the 12v so I decided to splurge and upgrage to 24v. Already have the MK2B and a 24v cartridge ready to go. By the way, the cartridges are amazing. I had the stock resistor in the Buda and couldn't get it above 160 with a 12v fan running at 5v blowing across the barrel, switched to a cartridge and I could easily get it to 200. The E3D is amazing at how fast it heats, I can run it up to 245 in about 90 seconds I would guess(I'll time it tonight) and it is very responsive to changes.

I have also started experimenting with ABS since getting the new hotend, I tried to do it with the Buda but the heat rose up into the extruder and it came loose and caused some issues so I shelved the ABS until getting the E3D. I printed a twisted vase off Thingiverse and did acetone smoothing on it and its simply amazing being able to do that after printing with PLA for almost a year. This Wednesday I will have some Polycarbonate filament to play with($80 a KG, whew) and might order some Ninjaflex to play with.

[Khalid]

Impressive work and all the videos are really very very helpful I am here to thank you

[hoss2006]

The fan mount is a press fit, they were really loose on the ebay steppers I had on the prusa but the ob14 has stronger steppers from automation tech and they are a good fit.
They wouldn't be hard to model up to fit whatever you have.
You could also glue in some printed shims for a tighter fit.
Mine are even printed in PLA so it works great at keeping things cool that it doesn't deform them either.
Hoss

[tjb1]

The fan mount is a press fit, they were really loose on the ebay steppers I had on the prusa but the ob14 has stronger steppers from automation tech and they are a good fit.
They wouldn't be hard to model up to fit whatever you have.
You could also glue in some printed shims for a tighter fit.
Mine are even printed in PLA so it works great at keeping things cool that it doesn't deform them either.
Hoss

I'll see what I can come up with tonight, I've been using the QU-BD steppers for extruders since they are so short(only 40mm) and I run them at around 70% of max power. I got some color changing ABS that I am trying to print most of the extruder parts out of so I can monitor where the heat is.

[revwarguy]

Yeah, lovin Alibre as usual.

I was wondering what your thoughts are about Geomagic Design or Design Elements? I thought Alibre merged with them or something?
Is there much difference or advantage/disadvantage?

[hoss2006]

Got me haven't looked into it, still using Alibre 2011.
Hoss

[manton]

Yeah, lovin Alibre as usual.

I was wondering what your thoughts are about Geomagic Design or Design Elements? I though Alibre merged with them or something?
Is there much difference or advantage/disadvantage?

Alibre was bought out by 3D Systems, who also own Geomagic. The Geomagic Design product is the same as Alibre, it was just renamed. The old Alibre personal edition, is now called Cubify Design, but seems to share the same code base as Geomagic, it just has less features.

I've been using Cubify Design for a number of months, and I really like it, but it is quite buggy. Over time you learn to do things in different ways so the bugs seem to show up less often. I'll be upgrading to Geomagic Design Elements at the end of the month, since it is free for me, or anyone that has maintenance contract on Cubify design as of Dec 31st.

[revwarguy]

Thanks Manton, that helps. I bought Alibre when they made such a good deal on it a few years ago, but I failed to devote enough quality time to it to get familiar. I do a fair amount of 3D stuff in Aspire (bas relief type stuff) for my CNC router, but building a 3Dprinter has driven home the need to get more proficient at one of these. Is the user interface of Design Elements compatible with the bigger Design package, or do I throw away my learning if I need to upgrade? This makes a difference in deciding which to go with in the beginning.

[manton]

As far as I know the interface is identical. Different levels of the product just offer enhanced features. In fact, I think Geomagic can pretty much build in the features you want, as all features are controlled by the license. So, your options are Cubify Design, Geomagic Design Elements, and Geomagic Design, but I think you can also add individual features. For example, I have Cubify Design, with the advanced import/export feature, which is sold as a special edition by Sherline. Also, I think that if you buy a lower level product, Geomagic will let you upgrade to a higher level product for an additional fee.

If you have, or were to reinstate maintenance on your copy of Alibre, you would get the upgrade to the latest version. If you have the personal edition, it would be useful to see if you could get maintenance on it, if nothing else, so that you could get the free upgrade to Geomagic Design Elements.

I didn't find it very difficult to learn, and I had only used 2D CAD when I started. Actually I found it surprisingly easy, and now can't understand why anybody would design in 2D.

[hoss2006]

Same here, I rarely use Autocad anymore, everything is drawn straight in Alibre.
When I sketch on paper it's usually in 3D too, it's more natural to me.
Hoss

[revwarguy]

Maybe I am reading it wrong, but according to the Geomagic website, neither Design or Design Elements allow you to import an .STL file. It says you can export an .STL, but not import. This seems to me to be a pretty crucial need for 3D printing. Is that correct? If so, how do you modify something from Thingiverse for example?

[hoss2006]

There aren't many programs that can import and edit an stl, alibre can't.
Netfab can do some simple things like cut, think the new bobcad can but what it can do don't know.
The best I've seen is kubotek key creator.
Hoss