[CarveOne]

Carve,

The MakerBots in the pictures are 2 or 3 generations behind. This is still the crazy growth phase of 3D printers.. I'm sure someone will get it all figured out and start selling them at WalMart, but until then just figure that everything changes daily, and that you will never be caught up. So when you are ready to start building, get the most current design you can find, and go with it.

-C

Yes, I know. There's a 5th generation Makerbot Replicator that is roughly the ~ 8" x 10" x 6" working area I would like to have. They are nicer looking now than in the past. $2,899 is a bit of a stretch for me though. If that's a ready to run price and I find a way to pay myself back with it I might go that way. I'll spend some time reading before choosing something to buy or build.Are you using PLA filament mostly?

[Miata2k]

Are you using PLA filament mostly?

Carve,

Sorry not to get back to you sooner, I missed this message..
I started out using PLA because I didn't have a heated bed. When I built my first true 3D Printer, I added the heated bed and started working with ABS. I'm having some success with it, but some really bad failures too. I have good luck when I'm printing large shapes, anything with long (1+ inch) straight lines works great. If I have to print small parts (less than .25") I have problems getting them to stick to the bed. There is also a fine line between keeping the part cool, and over cooling the part.
During one of my prints, I saw that it was getting kind of soft, so I pointed my 3" desk fan at it. In just a few seconds, I could hear the part cracking.

I think once I get all the cooling figured out and get the auto bed leveling install I'll be able to print both ABS and PLA. I think the PLA might still be easier to print, but I like the material properties of the ABS.

As I was doing some youtubeing over the weekend, I found another 3d printer to watch, the "BerryBot3d". I think if you and Widgit are going to move to the world of 3D Printers, this is the way to go.

Check out his posts, videos, pictures on this thread.
VIDEO POSTED! Details about the BerryBot3D

I haven't been through it all yet, but it is for sure not a "tiny little wimpy thing". This is someone that took the time to build a real machine, and do it right.

I hope it was okay that I took the picture from his other post.. Shhhh, no one tell him.
Attachment 221106

-C

[spyderxxx]

C1

Have a look at Hoss's printer build.

Hossmachine OB14 3D Printer by Hossmachine - Thingiverse

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/commer...inters-85.html

Ed

[Miata2k]

Have a look at Hoss's printer build.

I hope I haven't offended anyone, I didn't want to sound like other machines were not great machines. I follow all of the stuff Hoss does, he does great work and has produced some great looking stuff. I really like his collection of miniature mills.

I was just saying that most machines are based around 3d printed parts where the BerryBot has a more "Machine Shop" design to it. Something that a guy with a Bridgeport would like to build. I'm really impressed with the magnet ball end design, and the 2nd generation hot plate he build from his own design.(not the silicon pad)

Personally I barely have enough time to tinker on my machines, so anything anyone else builds that is the least bit different impresses me.

-C

[spyderxxx]

I hope I haven't offended anyone,

C

Sorry Miata2k.

My reply wasn't addressed to you. Since C1 wanted a larger 3D printer I wanted to point out Hoss's as an option.

Ed

[CarveOne]

We checked the fit of the panel one more time and it fits perfectly now.

I've sanded the walnut and applied three coats of Deft Clear Lacquer on the rear side. Sometime tomorrow I'll Vcarve my logo on the right rear side as requested by the owner. I told him that I had anticipated doing it on the rear side near the lower edge and had already created a reverse image version of the logo so that he could show it by using a hand mirror if anyone wanted to see it. This allows seeing it as a readable reflection.

After coloring the carved logo with something that shows well against the brown wood I'll spray on two more coats of clear lacquer to seal it. Then I'll work on the front side.

[CarveOne]

The neck is fitted to the box now, and the top could be glued in place, but there are other things to do inside first. Now to work on a fret board and stain/seal the inside of the box except for the glue joints.

[CarveOne]

I haven't done any of those so far. I stocked up on a bunch of the cutting boards from Walmart and was going to order some of the champagne colored Corian online but never got around to it.

Maybe someone will speak up.

[CarveOne]

Thanks Kuroguy. This will be using steel strings.

I finally decided to not let the neck intimidate me out of making it myself and started throwing something together this morning using red oak. Since this is a CNC woodcraft project, and in no way going to be competitive with the finest guitar craftsmen out there, the best I can hope for is something that looks reasonably good and stays in tune long enough to get through a few chords of Stairway to Heaven.

The fret board will be sliced off of the Bolivian rosewood piece I have instead of wasting the whole piece for just one neck.. I didn't want to install the rod, but doing it this way will give that ability. The neck will be almost a through neck, but will not go completely through the bottom end of the box. It will be glued into a 1/4" deep notch. More on that when the neck is being installed. The precision radius on the heel is from tracing the bottom of the can of stain. There will be some band saw cuts while fitting the neck to the box.

[CarveOne]

I agree that doing the finger board as a model in Aspire will give better results than importing an STL file. I also know that the particular type of ball nose cutter is important to getting a smooth surface. Some of the ball nose tips leave a small line due to the way it is sharpened. Using a small step-over value still leaves this mark.

When/if I make an attempt to build a serious guitar I'll do a lot better job of it than this one. This one is an experimental/whimsical effort for me and I'm not really as serious about it as I should be. Witness the tail piece I will be using. I would have preferred a single row of screws but this is what the local Radio Shack had in stock. I bought a couple of the 6 and 4 terminal types. It can be mounted on the end or the top of the box depending on string height needed. This idea comes from my electronics background. Should work, but we won't know until I try it.

[diyengineer]

Yes, I know. There's a 5th generation Makerbot Replicator that is roughly the ~ 8" x 10" x 6" working area I would like to have. They are nicer looking now than in the past. $2,899 is a bit of a stretch for me though. If that's a ready to run price and I find a way to pay myself back with it I might go that way. I'll spend some time reading before choosing something to buy or build.Are you using PLA filament mostly?

Checkout solidoodle. I was going to buy a makerbot but after comparing them over and over the print quality is just as good for thousands less.

[CarveOne]

This project is now completed. Unless it gets scratched up by the owner while installing it. Then I'll probably need to fix it for him. When the car is completed I'll take some photos of it and post them here and in the Vectric Forums.

[atwooddon]

Very nice, that will look great when installed. Bet you get some other orders for similar stuff after people see this.

Don

[CarveOne]

Thanks, I remembered seeing one here but didn't remember who it was. I'll check yours out. I downloaded a file for a doll bed from the Vectric forums almost a year ago and scaled it up to queen size with the intent to modify it into something for my guest room. For this doll bed I made a lot of changes to the original doll bed file, scaled it to fit the doll (I hope our measurements look right with the doll on it), and cut the head and foot board last evening.