So much of this machine is built from scrap aluminum that was found by rummaging through the scrap bin at work. I purchased some of the larger items like the 3" x 1/2" side plates and the linear bearing extrusions. I got 2 steppers and 3 drives from work that could no longer be used on production equipment but was reported to have worked fine when the machines were disassembled.
The build volume will be about 20" x 40" x 4"
It uses some 8020 10 series along with some 1/2" aluminum plate. The y-axis side plates are 1/4" 7071 aluminum. I used 8020 gusseted angle extrusion for my linear rails. I may replace this by some proper linear bearing rails in the future but this is working nicely to get me going.
Screws are 1/2-10 single start. The X-axis is geared to a 1:2 increase to make it act like a 2 start. All screws are installed under tension to minimize whipping.
Steppers are Vexta 5 phase. The X and Y are nema 34 and the Z is a nema 23. I tested these out on a table top using the "roadrunner" g-code that comes with Mach3
Here are a few pictures of the progress. It started out as a solidworks model:
Here is my anti-backlash setup. There's a nice stiff spring between the 2 brass nuts. 1 nut is bolted to the extrusion that they are housed within.
Look at the lovely kite that I machined.... Anyway, Here's what it looked like while I was using it as a manual router "mill" It came in quite handy in this configuration
Here's the Y and Z axis assembly without the side plates
This is the bearing assembly that I made. Based on the "buildyourcnc.com" book build but a bit better with that extrusion
I picked up a variable speed dewalt for my "spindle" It will be powered from the control box so that Mach 3 can turn it on and off.
An early version of my belt drive on the X-axis. The tension arms were replaced with something that worked a bit better
Fitting up the X axis motor
The control enclosure about a week ago. I have it about wired up now but need to clean up my wiring. The outlet on the side is turned on via a solid state relay that can be tripped from the breakout board. The power for that outlet runs through the normally closed side of the e-stop so that it will have a hard shut down as well when the e-stop is tripped. A breakout board input will be on the normally open side of the switch. there's a blue LED to indicate that the switch is not pressed. I'm running a network cable from the BOB through a cord grip that will run to the limit switches. A pendant that came with the BOB goes through a phone jack on the side of the box.