[Drools]

Gerry, your wave effect would look really nice on a StarGate model. I think C1 is doing a StarGate model.

[racedirector]

Gerry

Just going over your machine again and noticed that you have what looks like X0, Y0 at the end of the table rather then at the other end (motors end). Am I right in thinking this? If so, how do you handle that in Mach/gcode as I assume everything would be backward...

Cheers
Bruce

[ger21]

In post #227. X0 Y0 is the corner closest to you. I stand on the side, so X+ is to the right, Y+ is going up. Just like the screen in Mach3.

I home X to the + end (right), and use a home offset of 45.something to make X0 in machine coordinates be at the left end.

[GAWnCA]

Just found this thread and read through it all. I would like to know where you got the cable chain. Everything I find is so big when you consider you're only running 1 to 3 cables through it.

I've got a new cnc machine that I'm doing the finishing touches to and I was thinking of mounting 1" x 1" aluminum rails along the X and Y axis as fences. I'm wondering if I could set them up so that I can use them to set the home location. How are they wired also the Z axis. I have a new controller that a friend of mine designed and built. I'll ask him where I wold connect the wires to it. I've got to wire the motors up and I hate trying to decide how and where to run those.

Very nice build and very nice documentation. Thanks.

[ger21]

I would like to know where you got the cable chain.

Some online surplus place was selling it for $1/ft. I bought the last 15 feet they had. I think you can get the same size from McMaster Carr, but it's closer to $8-$9/ft.

I would use regular home switches, and use a home offset setting to get the fences set to 0. Or, you can probe them to set 0.

[GAWnCA]

Some online surplus place was selling it for $1/ft. I bought the last 15 feet they had. I think you can get the same size from McMaster Carr, but it's closer to $8-$9/ft.

I would use regular home switches, and use a home offset setting to get the fences set to 0. Or, you can probe them to set 0.

First, thanks for the reply. Then, can you tell me what size the chain is?

I'll take some photos and start a thread and maybe you can give me some advice there on the zero questions.

[ger21]

It's about 1" wide and 3/4" tall. You can also buy directly from Igus, they have many different sizes.

[GAWnCA]

Thanks again. I guess my best bet is the company itself.

[rocketflier]

Just found this thread and read through it all. I would like to know where you got the cable chain. Everything I find is so big when you consider you're only running 1 to 3 cables through it.

1/2" 10' $2.77 Lowes
Shop CARLON 10 Ft. Blue Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing at Lowes.com

[GAWnCA]

1/2" 10' $2.77 Lowes
Shop CARLON 10 Ft. Blue Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing at Lowes.com

How would you go about mounting it? Next thing I need to find is 4 wire motor connection wire.

Thanks for pointing this out to me. A lot cheaper than cable chain.

[rocketflier]

How would you go about mounting it? Next thing I need to find is 4 wire motor connection wire.

Thanks for pointing this out to me. A lot cheaper than cable chain.

How would I go about mounting it? I'd go stand in the electrical aisle at Lowes and see if there isn't an existing fitting that mates to that flexy stuff that has a tab or flange thingy that I could use as an attachment point.

If nothing jumps out there, I'd head to plumbing and find what size is close.

Here's my thinking. Flexy stuff that can hold the wires and has some spring. Check, that's the hard part. Mounting it could be as simple as a couple screws through the material,... or maybe,.. an angle bracket and hose clamps.

But I'd be a bit more fancy. If there isn't a conduit fitting that would work as a mount, they generally work such that they go into the side of a sheetmetal box. So get box, knock the holes out and cut it up so it holds fitting and becomes a bracket. Cut it right and each box would provide several brackets and people would want to know where you got the custom part.

Brain still wandering here,... there's probably an electrical or plumbing coupler that it fits into. So drill 2 mounting holes in the coupler (completely through it) and enlarge them on one side so the screw head fits through. Then you can simply attach the couple with screws and push/glue the flexy stuff into that.


I've walked ACE, Homedepot, Lowes, Walmart, Target,.. looking for things. Wire management products don't have the springy and not all are flexible. Someone else did a build that used vinyl flooring baseboard. It's flexible and somewhat springy, but I thought rather heavy. Another idea was the little red flags that go on the back of bicycles. Rather the fiberglass pole the flag is on. Walmart also has fiberglass replacement tent poles. I keep coming back to this stuff. Light, flexible, springgy, and a pretty color no less.

I'll have some excuse to run in tomorrow and see what I can come up with,..

Oh and somewhere here someone mentioned all those mini-vans with the sliding door have a short section of cable chain for the power door lock and window. Junkyards might be a cheap source,...

[louieatienza]

How would I go about mounting it? I'd go stand in the electrical aisle at Lowes and see if there isn't an existing fitting that mates to that flexy stuff that has a tab or flange thingy that I could use as an attachment point.

If nothing jumps out there, I'd head to plumbing and find what size is close.

Here's my thinking. Flexy stuff that can hold the wires and has some spring. Check, that's the hard part. Mounting it could be as simple as a couple screws through the material,... or maybe,.. an angle bracket and hose clamps.

But I'd be a bit more fancy. If there isn't a conduit fitting that would work as a mount, they generally work such that they go into the side of a sheetmetal box. So get box, knock the holes out and cut it up so it holds fitting and becomes a bracket. Cut it right and each box would provide several brackets and people would want to know where you got the custom part.

Brain still wandering here,... there's probably an electrical or plumbing coupler that it fits into. So drill 2 mounting holes in the coupler (completely through it) and enlarge them on one side so the screw head fits through. Then you can simply attach the couple with screws and push/glue the flexy stuff into that.


I've walked ACE, Homedepot, Lowes, Walmart, Target,.. looking for things. Wire management products don't have the springy and not all are flexible. Someone else did a build that used vinyl flooring baseboard. It's flexible and somewhat springy, but I thought rather heavy. Another idea was the little red flags that go on the back of bicycles. Rather the fiberglass pole the flag is on. Walmart also has fiberglass replacement tent poles. I keep coming back to this stuff. Light, flexible, springgy, and a pretty color no less.

I'll have some excuse to run in tomorrow and see what I can come up with,..

Oh and somewhere here someone mentioned all those mini-vans with the sliding door have a short section of cable chain for the power door lock and window. Junkyards might be a cheap source,...

They use that stuff for running low voltage wiring and other wires such as Cat5, or phone, etc... There's definitely fittings for them.

[LouF]

They also use it in auto electric wiring I use the smaller diameter to run my wires I run them in the grove or slot of the 8020. I had some on the Gantry running to my Z motor, router & Home switch but had a hard time keeping in from moving to much so I purchased some energy chain..


Lou

[rocketflier]

They use that stuff for running low voltage wiring and other wires such as Cat5, or phone, etc... There's definitely fittings for them.

Actually, the primary application seems to be for foundation and floor systems where it will be buried in concrete.

The stuff is not UV resistant so no outside or near window locations.

Did a bit of searching this morning and their brochure says it works with any of their snap fittings or can be glued to any standard plastic conduit fitting.

So you could simply just use metal or pvc straps to hold the flexy to the cnc



Or attach a box to the cnc and run the flexy to the box



Or you could cut a box like this up so you have the hole and the corner/bottom which you attach to the cnc

[ger21]

Still running strong after 6 years.

I'm building a 13" jointer roughly based on the plans from woodgears.ca, and made these aluminum bearing mounts to hold the cutterhead.
They are 1" 6061 aluminum.
A lot of the work was done on the drill press, but I used the CNC to cut the bearing pockets, and to trim them square. I cut the angled corners on the table saw, then counterbored the holes with the router. I used an 1/8" rod to find the center of the holes on the angled faces.

[FannBlade]

Nice job!

[LouF]

Gerry they look great.

[joelhofer]

gerry, im a new member here, both to the zone and cnc in general, have quite a bit of experience in woodworking and metal fabrication, which is what i do now; am thinking to build a cnc router about the size of yours; would like to make the table structure out of metal, though. what would you do different if u were building a new machine now or have u already made a different one? i cant afford to buy linear rail or bearings either, would u still go with the rollerblade bearing and pipe system?

[ger21]

I think a more appropriate question is what would I do to make this machine better.
The weakest part of this machine is the Z axis. Today, for just a few dollars more than I spent, I'd build a Z axis with these:
Aliexpress.com : Buy Original HIWIN Linear Rail Guide HGR15 L250mm rail with HGW15CA linear Sledges Carriage from Reliable rail suppliers on BST AUTOMATION | Alibaba Group

would u still go with the rollerblade bearing and pipe system?

If I was on a very tight budget, yes. It works very well, IF you can pull the bearings very tightly to the pipe. I'd also consider going with square steel tube, as it would minimize the small amount of wear I get on the round tubes.

Rigidity is the most important factor in getting a good working machine.

Keep in mind that I started building this 13 years ago, when DIY CNC was in it's infancy. Today, you have a lot more options.

Yes, I am building a new machine. I've been designing it since before this one was finished, and have been gathering components and making small parts here and there for a while. The goal is to build the highest performing machine possible, using mostly wood for construction. Total cost will be upwards of $5K. Thread is here:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wo...0-autocad.html
The design started here:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ew-design.html

The design still isn't fully complete. I work on it when I can find time.

[chmedly]

Hi Gerry,

I'm curious if you ever did any measurement of this machine wrt to accuracy and repeatability. This could perhaps give some perspective on the capabilities of a wooden machine. I read the entire thread (I think) and don't remember seeing any posts on the topic but perhaps you posted somewhere else?