[Devastator]

looks cool bro,

Thanks! I've been doing some hard thinking about building a 48X48. I could really use another machine. Just the one is not keeping up with all of the work.

[Devastator]

Here's what happens when you push the SuperPid sensor into the spinning shaft on the router. Sensor part QRE 1113 @ Mouser for $0.87 ea. Dead in the water until it arrives. I ordered a few extras. Now I get to contact customers to inform them of the delay in production.

[LS120]

well thats just got to suck.... hope they under stand and all is good with them. what design are you looking at for the 48 x 48 table??

[Devastator]

what design are you looking at for the 48 x 48 table??

My own design. I think we'll go with $1,000 budget on the next one and see if I can keep it below that. Not that I need to go cheap anymore because I have a lot of paying work, but more as a design exercise. Contrary to popular belief, I believe you can make a quality machine from easily sourced materials with the right design and close attention to your construction.

[Devastator]

Now I'm in a bit of a quandary. Since my wires got all chewed up I don't know which wires go where on the new part. I've got a red, a white, and a bare. https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/QR/QRE1113.pdf

Nevermind....Figured it out.
Pin 1: red
Pin 2: ground
Pin 3: white
Pin 4: ground

Hope this helps someone in the future.

[fretman_2]

I'm hoping that is true! It's so much more fun to design and build it yourself.

...contrary to popular belief, I believe you can make a quality machine from easily sourced materials with the right design and close attention to your construction.

[Devastator]

I just got to thinking about a piece of advice that I can give that is probably the most important thing when you build a DIY machine.....Before you start your build, go out and buy a three ring binder and three hole punch. Then for every piece that goes on the machine that has documentation, add it to that binder. Including your hand drawn diagrams of stepper wiring and motor tuning and such. You think you will remember everything because at the time it seems clear as a bell. But in a year or two, you won't remember what you did and it could cost you days of backtracking. You'll be doing yourself a huge favor. Here's an example of one I just added to the SuperPID section of my binder.

I've also attached the wiring diagram that Val from SuperPID sent me.

[ger21]

That's much too organized for me.

[fretman_2]

That is a good idea. I've done that with my guitar amp/ham radio builds/experiments. I also keep the CNC feeds/speeds that have worked for me in the same log.

I just got to thinking about a piece of advice that I can give that is probably the most important thing when you build a DIY machine.....Before you start your build, go out and buy a three ring binder and three hole punch. Then for every piece that goes on the machine that has documentation, add it to that binder. Including your hand drawn diagrams of stepper wiring and motor tuning and such. You think you will remember everything because at the time it seems clear as a bell. But in a year or two, you won't remember what you did and it could cost you days of backtracking. You'll be doing yourself a huge favor. Here's an example of one I just added to the SuperPID section of my binder.

[Devastator]

That's much too organized for me.

That's because you are the CNC guru with all this stuff committed to memory. I need a crutch!

[fretman_2]

LOL!

[Devastator]

Learning splash anodizing. One of my first pieces.

[Beta1042]

Currently gathering parts for my first build, a Solsylva 24x48. Curious question about your X axis bearing block guides. You say you made them at 45 degrees, but would do it at 30 degrees next time. Does that mean you would prefer the bearings be positioned further under the bar or to the side. With a 1" rod at 45 deg the bearings ride 0.146" in from each side (i.e. Contact points between are 0.708", 1"- 2x0.146). If they move further up the side you get 0.067" from the side. Doesn't seem to provide much rigidity to react the z axis induced moment. Sorry,my frame of reference is likened to a 2 degree draft on a composite or cast part, it is just enough to let a part slide out of a female mold. So measurement from a 90 degree edge. Hmm... After rereading I should have stopped after the first 4 sentences.

[Devastator]

Hmm... After rereading I should have stopped after the first 4 sentences.

LOL! No worries. I mean that I would have cut them with less angle. With the steeper angle I chose, it did have more wrap around the pipe, but that became problematic because I had to use an extra nut on each stud under the pipe, and also had to make sure that the nuts were all turned the right way or the bearings would hit them. So I had to make sure the flat parts on the nut were parallel to the pipes or my bearings would hit. It almost didn't work!

[aarggh]

That's a really awesome job on the anodising, that's one of the many things on my wishlist to learn.

What did you use for a mask?

cheers, Ian

[Devastator]

That's a really awesome job on the anodising, that's one of the many things on my wishlist to learn.

What did you use for a mask?

cheers, Ian

Thanks! I used vinyl and rubber cement. Here's a couple more.

[Devastator]

My first sign. MDF 24" X 8".

[Devastator]

Scored the linear rails for my next junkyard build yesterday. Two display stands with heavy chrome pipe ready to be dismantled. These were sitting out by a dumpster and even had heavy steel bases. So heavy that I had to take them apart to load and unload them in pieces because I couldn't lift them. The pipes are 1.5" diameter and have flat stock welded along their length, so fully supported. The plan for these is a 48X48 machine. I'll link to a new build thread once it is underway.

[LS120]

looks cool i must start getting back into mine.. as autumn / fall has started now and weather is colder and wetter.

[abesau]

I freed up a couple hours today to build a drag knife. Made from scrap around the shop, it sure beats the price tag on the commercial version. Special thanks to Brian Oltrogge at Grunblau Design Studio for the dxf geometry. Finally I can slot cardboard tubing without making fuzz. My router won't go high enough with my fourth axis fixture on top of the table to use it though. I'm going to have to come up with a custom holder for it that attaches to the router mount.

Almost forgot to mention.....New Z works way better than the old one. It went though the aluminum like a hot knife through butter, no vibration except slight on the ramp downs on the holding tabs. I suspect some of that is normal with a single flute bit.

Do you still have the DXF files you can share? Looking to make me a drag knife. Thank you