what mill do you have? I'd be interested to know what your depth and width of cut is.
what mill do you have? I'd be interested to know what your depth and width of cut is.
G0704.
I'd have to look up the DOC, off hand I'm thinking it's around .25". I'm working with about 1hp, so it's nothing crazy, but my mill is working pretty hard at that point anyways.
Getting things dialed in a bit more...at the cost of my TAS rougher
Best i could do before it broke (my fault the tool started to pull out of the TTS) .7 DOC x .08 WOC @ 5000RPM and 75 IPM (4.2 MRR). It's looking my spindle motor is going to be the weak spot going forward.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BhzqAOqFZpg
Also got the coolant container installed and air lines run. I'm almost ready for some projects!
Next up is linear rails for the lathe!
So I did a thing today...Finally got my power draw bar installed and working!
I had to machine a new draw bar, which is ok the original one was VERY loose in the spindle bore which audibly threw thing off ballance when at higher RPM. The new one just barely fits, and in fact i had a surprise step down in diameter on the inside of the spindle bore which i had to account for.
Installed and ready for testing:
It's alive!!
https://www.facebook.com/26967417639...858642621/?t=0
Any updates? How are your gas springs holding up?
she's working good so far although i have yet to do any heavy cuts with it yet.
struts are fine I've had them on the mill for a few years now.
Can someone help with the 220vac hook up in the power box? I bought a pm-45m at an auction but the main feed was disconnected and I cannot find a manual. Thanks in afvance
contact Precision Mathiews. Their customer support is top notch and I'm sure they can get you up and running.
Finally got the doors on the enclosure installed!
Also finally got the flood lights installed.
up next is to revisit the power drawbar. I think it's time to go hydraulic as I've had a few tools start to pull under heavy loading.
yeah, the 45s are good size machines for home use. For anyone looking to do something similar you should look in your area to see if you have a local makerspace. You can always get a months membership, make your cuts and you'll be on your merry way. of course there's always the tried and true method of showing up to a local machine shop near break time with a 6 pack and watch it magically get done...
Just make sure when you show up at the machine shop at break time with the sixer that they machine first...then guzzle. Makes for a better job!:cheers:
Stuart
"THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A
Curious how well yours machines parts? Depth of cut?, speeds, etc... in hindsite would you have gone bigger blocks knowing you machines dovetails anyways? I have the room for 30’s on my 833t but the Y axis ends up a little more complicated. To prevent travel loss I would need to run rail extension supports off the base of the casting otherwise it’s doable. My casting is worn already less than two years so I don’t care what I machine off as long as nothing thins out. Thinking 15’s or 30’s would prevent rigidity loss from the dovetails. Curious to hear or see a video link of your machine running. Fortunately I have a 20x40 bed mill I can easily machine up base and column. The other thing is an aluminum saddle seems like it may not be as rigid and dampening as using a cast iron block. Already spending the money what’s $200 more?
the rails are not the limiting factor in any way. The rigidity of the column is the weak spot.
the saddle is more than sturdy enough being aluminum. Yeah i could have spent more money on a cast iron piece, but i'm not looking to hold tenths, nor is this mill capable of that. I can hold .001-.002 all day, which is more than adequate for anything I do.
Have you posted your drawbar and belt conversion anywhere?
I don't believe that I have. I'll try and get something together tonight for everyone.
Been a long time since I made any updates to this thread, but I recently finished the latest addition. A 5 axis trunnion table...
There are 2 harmonic drives that provide the rotary motion. For those that are not aware, they are about the only way to truly get 0 backlash with a gear reduction.
The C axis is belt driven thru the frame. Not a great design, but I wanted to keep the stepper away from the table as much as I could
the belt just has a 3d printed cover keeping all the chips out
It needs a few little upgrades, but works quite well as is. Surface finish is pretty good, no wired vibrations in the system.
Not sure how to embed videos but....
https://i.imgur.com/iti7T3Y.mp4
Pretty cool! I built a trunnion for my G0704 and got tired of messing with it and ended up scrapping it.
Yours seems to work better than mine did. Though the designs were nearly identical.
what isues did you have?
I spent a LOT of time getting everything dialed in square/flat and getting steps/angle correct before I made a single chip. It still has some quirks. I need to reinforce the C axis table a bit. I get a bit of deflection when doing drilling operations. The first drill i tried was super dull and made it very apparent the flex it had. haha.