[atomarc]

Had to move the oil fitting hole to the other side of the nut, the new nut was opposite the original. Soild carbide drill and tap had no problems.







(grinding ball nut mounting face)



(assembly / fitting)

[atomarc]

Assembly time.....

(ballscrew after having shims fit ready for a test drive)





(getting ready to put the table back on machine)





( "Hey!! I just want a little cornbread" )





(Motor and coupling ready to go on)



(made new grease lines even length, in hopes for more even flow)



(ready to install table)



(kinda sorta like.... bobs your uncle.)

[atomarc]

the diary of..... #3

https://youtu.be/AtGB_5N11xA

[gd.marsh]

The quality of your build is inspiring .. keep posting the updates!

Gary

[Abuckeye]

What a great build and write up!
I started reading tonight from page one and I couldn’t turn away. What a wealth of information from some great craftsmen!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[atomarc]

Abuckeye & Gary,

Thank you for the nice comments..we always try to to the best we can.

I would wager that many members are worn out on this build and are waiting for us to actually put the machine to practical use making things. That will happen for sure but right now we have a chance to 'tinker' and fine tune the things we have already done. This past weekend the external braking resistor was somehow switched ON by the Hitachi frequency drive and almost went up in flames. There was no real damage but we haven't found the culprit for sure..some noise or external voltage spike may have triggered the drive to initiate the braking resistor while the spindle was running. Nick smelled the resistor cooking and actually burned his hand a bit when he touched it.

The spindle/Belleville washer arrangement works well but it's not proper from a design standpoint. Because we're using around 4000 pounds of drawbar tension, this force is trying to pull the upper and lower bearing cartridges together which results in a very tight turning spindle when warm. I can see a redo on the spindle down the road a bit.

All the machines in my shop have paid for themselves many times over in projects for customers..I feel the 'Grizz' should do the same and I'm pushing Nick to cut back on the tinkering a bit and to start finding jobs for the machine.

Thanks for watching this thread and for the positive comments. We'll keep the pictures and posts coming as long as they are welcomed.

Stuart & Nick
'

[Kenny Duval]

Well...I can always crate up and send him my BF20 and he test his merit putting linear rails on it.

[atomarc]

Gents,

I have not been here lately so I thought I would sneak back in and share a little thing that Nick did on the Grizz a few weeks ago. It was a favor for a friend of mine..a small piece of side rod linkage off of a old Tyco HO gauge steam engine. The material was Starrett O1 tool steel that we ground to .020 and machined with a .030 solid carbide endmill. Nick dimensioned the part and drew it up in Fusion 360 and ran it on the Grizz which uses Mach-4. To be on the safe side I ordered 3 endmills and we ended up breaking 2 halfway through the part. They would break at the same point in the program so I think there was some little hiccup going on. The 3rd one finished the part and it was a dead nuts, exact copy of the sample, and fit the little locomotive perfectly.

The piece of O1 was crazy glued to a small aluminum plate that was held in the vise. After machining a little torch heat breaks the glue bond and you have your part in hand. I think there is some video of the action and I'll ask Nick to post it.

I'm sharing this because it blows me away to see a .030 endmill in action..they're pretty darn dinky. That long slot is .040 wide.

Stuart

[CL_MotoTech]

I use a 1mm end mill for one of the parts I regularly make. Not a fun tool to use. The quality of small end mills varies even greater than those of larger end mills as far as I can tell.

[atomarc]

I use a 1mm end mill for one of the parts I regularly make. Not a fun tool to use. The quality of small end mills varies even greater than those of larger end mills as far as I can tell.

I purchased these end mills through Shars but they were made in the USA. They sure looked good under a jewelers loupe..nice crisp flutes and a flat sharp end. I don't think our spindle RPM was more than 4k but the feed and DOC was very conservative. At least that's what Nick tells me..I wouldn't know from Adam..can't even turn the thing ON!

Stuart

[dazp1976]

I'm reading this with interest as I'm looking to buy one of these with a R8 spindle:
AMAT30LV MT3 Milling Machine

Not far off similar to the Grizz. I'll keep it simple to start with using the usual Chinese stuff. Then build on it while it funds itself.
Big upgrade over my X2 conversion.

[CS900]

I purchased these end mills through Shars but they were made in the USA. They sure looked good under a jewelers loupe..nice crisp flutes and a flat sharp end. I don't think our spindle RPM was more than 4k but the feed and DOC was very conservative. At least that's what Nick tells me..I wouldn't know from Adam..can't even turn the thing ON!

Stuart

As I'm sure you know when you get that small in cutter diameter, tool holder/ spindle runnout is a big issue. If you didn't check it before making chips that could have contributed to early failure.

[dazp1976]

.

[dazp1976]

As I'm sure you know when you get that small in cutter diameter, tool holder/ spindle runnout is a big issue. If you didn't check it before making chips that could have contributed to early failure.

I've only got a X2 conversion atm that can't handle much.
When I first started chipping my cutters weren't lasting (6mm / 1/4in)
Using ER32 chuck, feed of 200mm/min, rpm of 1000, doc 0.5mm.

Now for that size cutter I'm using direct collets giving runouts of around 0.007mm, feed of 800mm/min, rpm of 1300, doc average of 0.96mm.
They're lasting much much longer but I need a better machine to go any further with feed and doc.
8mm cutters can only go 650mm/min without severe chatter.

I've put together a really good coolant system I now need a decent machine

[dazp1976]

Looks like the Grizz clone I'm after will be in stock towards the end of October (about time).
Bought a Dell 780 for £32 and just finished installing XP and Mach3 on there. Will try out 7 at some point when it's all finished.
Got my drivers, power and motors in a box just need to wire it all up and put the board in.

Then start the conversion when I finally get the machine. I don't know the table size without handles until I get it so can't order any screws yet really. That'll be another month delay
I'll most likely look at AC bearings for this one and put some grease/zerk points in.

[hanermo]

Fwiw .. I have seen and held and shown in our sales area a 0.02 mm endmill.

It was demoed cutting at 10.000 rpm for a special purpose edm electrode cut in copper and cf.
The endmill, 1 flute, made by a customer.

[atomarc]

Gentlemen,

It's been a awhile since I have posted here and I'm not sure this is the proper place for this question but I'll give it a try.

The Grizz is equipped with a Intel NUC that is powered by its own 19v, 65w power supply. The machine also has a USB powered monitor as well as a USB powered MPG. The remote keyboard is wireless and battery powered. When power is applied and the system boots, often either the monitor or the MPG will not come to life. If I disconnect the MPG then the system boots normally..if I disconnect the monitor then, watch the little screen on the MPG, the system boots normally. It appears to my very untrained eye that the 65w power supply is on the borderline and cannot boot all the devices when they are connected at the same time.

Does that sound reasonable..or plausible? I'm assuming that the NUC power supply (wall wart) is connected to a common buss inside the computer that all the USB cable can draw their power from.

There is a 120w power supply available for the NUC. Would it be silly to purchase that and give it a try or is it obvious to those wiser than I that this isn't the problem!

Does any of this make sense?

Stuart

[Kenny Duval]

Why would you be running a USB powered monitor on it? You are likely asking too much of the USB bus power on that board. Plus USB displays are not intended to be the main video output of a machine. That NUC has an HDMI port.

Ultimately I think the best solution is to put the whole thing on a pallet and ship it to me. I'll get it sorted out in the next couple years and then send it back to you. You already need a larger machine anyway.

[atomarc]

Kenny,

If you keep asking I might just ship the silly thing to you..keep an eye out!

I'm trying to get my head around this and Nick isn't helping the old man much. So..the wall-wart style power-supply made for the NUC is 19v/65w but that evidently just feeds the onboard power supply of the NUC as it and all other devices are only 5v..right!

So it looks like the solution would be to power the monitor and MPG from a dedicated 5v power source independent of the NUC. This would require either a way to switch the power supply on and off with the computer, or a button/relay to turn the power supply to them on and off so they don't stay powered all the time. Is that a goofy idea?

The entire system works perfectly, but sometimes it's a chore on boot up to get all the devices up and running together. It often takes some unplugging of the MPG or monitor, then plugging them back in, one at a time and all is well.

I might have the whole thing diagnosed incorrectly but it sure seems like a lack of 'oink' from a power standpoint.

Look for that shipping crate on your front stoop!

Stuart

[Kenny Duval]

Kenny,

If you keep asking I might just ship the silly thing to you..keep an eye out!

I'm trying to get my head around this and Nick isn't helping the old man much. So..the wall-wart style power-supply made for the NUC is 19v/65w but that evidently just feeds the onboard power supply of the NUC as it and all other devices are only 5v..right!

So it looks like the solution would be to power the monitor and MPG from a dedicated 5v power source independent of the NUC. This would require either a way to switch the power supply on and off with the computer, or a button/relay to turn the power supply to them on and off so they don't stay powered all the time. Is that a goofy idea?

The entire system works perfectly, but sometimes it's a chore on boot up to get all the devices up and running together. It often takes some unplugging of the MPG or monitor, then plugging them back in, one at a time and all is well.

I might have the whole thing diagnosed incorrectly but it sure seems like a lack of 'oink' from a power standpoint.

Look for that shipping crate on your front stoop!

Stuart

I would pick up an HDMI capable monitor and remove that load from the power demand of the USB bus. If the power supply for the machine wasn't providing adequate power you'd get odd behavior from the NUC. Random OS crashes and such. I don't think you have a power supply problem I just think you are asking more of the USB bus than it can supply for power.

You might as an alternative to that try adding a powered USB hub to the equation and run the monitor off of that. That may remove enough load from the bus to get you reliable. It'll add another power supply to equation.