Hi Jake - Can I ask where did you get the dimensions for the drivescrew components? Nut, nut housing, coupling and support bearings? been digging around trying to find them, no luck yet. Peter
Hi Jake - Can I ask where did you get the dimensions for the drivescrew components? Nut, nut housing, coupling and support bearings? been digging around trying to find them, no luck yet. Peter
I am open to ANY motor option at this point. Geared or direct, I just want to make sure I leave enough space for them. The gantry is weighing in at close to 800lbs. On the IPM, I got those numbers from Onsrud. How do they (or anyone) calculate that speed? In one direction or two, three? With the bit in the material?
I too think that plate is too long and thin. The Z design has been pretty frustrating for me. If you look at the first picture in this tread I had the rails on the Z "sled" for stiffness. I changed this to blocks on the Z sled in some sort of attempt in faster management. I was trying to avoid using flange style carriages to keep rails as far apart as possible. At a minimum I plan to add side and maybe middle stiffeners to the Z sled. Steel comes in 20 foot lengths and the plan is to use the leftover drops from the gantry (10" x 1/2") for the Z plate and gantry legs (top and bottom).
This will machine will cut plywood and melamine only. I have found a machine shop 45 minutes away with a big bridge mill but I have not been able to find anyone to do the street relief as of now. I will download the .stp file and send it your way. Thanks!
On a side note, how do I upload pictures that will display as a thumbnail until clicked? Just trying to keep things tidy.
Jake which Charlotte are we talking about here. There are shops in the Buffalo NY area that can stress relieve just about anything.
It is the linear speed of the cutter on the path it is following.
Don’t make the Z any higher than required for the intended usage plus a bit of clearance for usability. If the goal is to machine sheet goods having 20” of S capability just leads to an expensive machine. Given that there is no perfect value for Z axis capability.
I too think that plate is too long and thin. The Z design has been pretty frustrating for me. If you look at the first picture in this tread I had the rails on the Z "sled" for stiffness. I changed this to blocks on the Z sled in some sort of attempt in faster management. I was trying to avoid using flange style carriages to keep rails as far apart as possible. At a minimum I plan to add side and maybe middle stiffeners to the Z sled. Steel comes in 20 foot lengths and the plan is to use the leftover drops from the gantry (10" x 1/2") for the Z plate and gantry legs (top and bottom).
If plywood is the goal then excessive Z stroke isn't required. You do need to avoid too little also. By the way I’d also suggest keeping the linear motion bearings on the Y axis saddle. This way the rails are always supported as near to the working end of the tool as possible.This will machine will cut plywood and melamine only. I have found a machine shop 45 minutes away with a big bridge mill but I have not been able to find anyone to do the street relief as of now. I will download the .stp file and send it your way. Thanks!
On a side note, how do I upload pictures that will display as a thumbnail until clicked? Just trying to keep things tidy.
Automation Overstock, surplus automation equipment, overstock automation devices, manufacturer overruns, linear bearings, variable speed drives, circuit breakers, contactors, starters, relays
They are a NC company. I am also planning to get my slides from them.
I think the Z plate will be a U shape when done.
It will be 1/2" steel as well, but I plan to add some support on the sides for good measure.
The gantry will have only two rails. The top profile will accept the gear rack. The model I downloaded was giving Fusion a lot of troubles so I deleted it for now.
I am looking for a good supplier for the rack. 20mm+ high?
Charlotte NC, you know, the place all your neighbors moved to. Every fall the sports bars jockey for who can be called the the official Bill's headquarters on billboards and sports radio. Oh, and thanks for the wings idea!
Right now the Z and gantry clear about 10" (255mm). 9-10" seemed pretty common so I went for that. Also I wanted to give myself enough room for for a gearbox if I have to go that way.
You can tell form this pic that I still need shorten the Z Plate. I will probably add a Lip to the outside edge of the leg so its not unsupported. Maybe 1" wide.
Peter--- Right now I have 65mm between the faces of the plates. I was thinking ribs about 1/4 - 3/8 x 1-1/2" wide on the outside edges.
Steel yard called this afternoon. Tuesday turned into "We'll call you early next week" 2500lbs of steel this order. Thats one heck of a boat anchor.
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Hi Jake - Sorry not big enough. 1/2" thick and 4" high minimum. The Z Axis cantilever is the critical part of the machine don't skimp on it. It's the coal face. It's the thing that will vibrate if under stiff, it's the thing that will deflect from your huge motors and drives etc etc. Plus these webs are in free air so there is no reason not to go big. Plus it will give you something to hang the dust collection and other things that you will hang on this area over time. You have a mega machine with a wimpy Z at the moment. Need to add some steroids to it. Peter
Thks for the ball screw catalogue very good.
Just a thought you can screw these webs on from the sides (or screw them to the small webs you are thinking of) so you can take them off to modify them without taking the Z axis off. You will have dust collection and other things to add, so this area needs a bit of ease and flexibility to it.