Another and cheaper option would be to just use some sort of leveling bolt, like this:
https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300510150/
...and then put a seating plate below that:
https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300510240/
Another and cheaper option would be to just use some sort of leveling bolt, like this:
https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300510150/
...and then put a seating plate below that:
https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300510240/
My machine is very similar to this.
https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1wg1wO...XXXV.jpg_.webp
or to this :
https://www.facebook.com/VulcanMachineCo/
Difference is the column guides are more widely spaced, and I got 2 ballscrews on there instead of one.
They arrived a couple of days ago and today i had the time to unwrap them and have a look at what they made. I think i'm satisfied so far, they seem to slide very good and they seem sturdy. The "finish" is not "5 star" worthy, more like a 3-4 star, e.g. the welding and corner allignment is kinda....umm...."not how i would have made it"? :-) But i'm pretty sure it will do the job just fine... I've added a bunch of pictures, let me know if there is anything in particular you are interested in...
Attachment 463596Attachment 463598Attachment 463600Attachment 463602Attachment 463604Attachment 463606Attachment 463608
/Thomas
Today the lasercut steel for the z-axis and cross table arrived. Lots of grinding and welding awaits:-)
Attachment 464692
Awesome, where did you source steel and cutting?
Just a somewhat local company... ( https://www.staermoseindustry.com )
Well, it seems like i'm "back on track" with the mouldwork again. I had a "minor" issue with my sheetrouter after i moved it to another shop... i forgot to re-align the two motors moving the gantry, so X-Y was not 100% perpendicular :-( This resulted in me wasting hours of milling and expensive phenolic plywood(~1000USD)... dang it! Well, lesson learned! Got it aligned perfectly, again, ordered the plywood, again, and milled the parts for the form, again... and this time the pieces fit together quite a bit better and the mould is square this time around ;-)
I'm currently assemblying it (again). Here is a a picture of both the bottom(stand on it's end) and top form:
Attachment 465006Attachment 465008
...neither is fully assembled yet, but will be in the next couple of days...
/Thomas
Bottom mould is completly assembled now. All bare or sawn edges are taped of with releasetape and the mould is ready for a coat of releasefilm before mounting all the anchors:
Attachment 465250Attachment 465254
I was in doubt how i should seal these ends, but ended using the tape. I did consider painting the ends and then wax them, but almost nomatter what i do, there will always be some sort of impression in the EG, either from the wood structure or from the tape. With the tape i at least know it will release very easy...and most of the casting will be covered anyways:-)
I originally added ribbing on the underside of the mould to help support the mould and to somewhat isolate it from the concrete floor during the curingprocess. However, i'm not sure it helps anything now that i've assembled it :-)
Attachment 465252
The top mould is fully assembled, but i didn't manage to finish up the top-mould with tape tonight...maybe tomorrow :-) This is how it looks now, currently upside-down:
Attachment 465256
(Before anyone asks, this is the tape i've used: https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/flash-release-tape I've used it previously and it's nice to work with, sticks pretty good while still removeable and nothing sticks to the top side of the tape...)
Hi All- Heres a video on mould release systems...Thomas looking really good....Peter
I've bought this together with the epoxy components: https://shop1.r-g.de/en/art/165105
... however, my experiments with the "phenolic plywood" and epoxy showed that there was no need for any form of release was/film. I made multiple tests: no release agent applied, only wax applied, wax+PVA applied, only PVA applied and all of them released equally easy(and quite easy in fact)... and since i'm taping off all bare wood i'm not concerned at all...So i'm only applying it just to be safe ...
Beautiful molds, do you do woodworking professionally?
Finally(!) done with all the steel inserts... around 200kg of drilled and tapped steel, ready to be sandblasted and then put into the moulds!
Attachment 466176
...casting-day is fast approaching!
Hi Thomas - Fatherhood takes time. When you get the parts blasted you will get flash rusting. Are you going to coat the parts immediately in epoxy? or touch up prior to casting? Peter
I tend to now use "Wet blasting" and put an additive in the water. Stops flash rust.
Hi T4S - But that would probably be an oil? then it will interfere with the epoxy bonding to it? Peter
My plan was to cast directly after the blasting. But since we are fast approaching the holidays and the schedule might slip, i'm considering getting the blasting company to apply a light "metalization" to the inserts to avoid rust. I think it's just hot-sprayed zinc, so i don't think it has a negative impact on anything(?) other than my wallet ;-)...