[rab100]

Hi Chris ....(I assume it's Chris?)

Thanks for the post and details - prices your suggesting are more to my liking!. Actually I bought a length of 6mm threaded rod around 12 months ago when I was thinking of designing something myself, however thought the life of it would be quite limited - or the associated nut (which I would make out of some material like acetyl rod) would also be limited, so never pursued the idea further. I then started investigating ACME leadscrew and then ballscrews etc, so thus my comments re price etc. I assume Rockcliff are using threaded rod in their design?.
I still don't have access to the downloaded plans, although I had a phone call from Rockcliff this afternoon with password etc, which unfortunately didn't do the trick - a further download of files necessary on my part I think. (30MB file on dialup will have to happen overnight, tonight).
Full marks to Rockcliff however for making contact and support they have offered me. From where I stand that's great customer service - something I don't see too often these days. Hopefully I'll be reviewing the plans tomorrow.

By the way I'm in Wellington - actually Lower Hutt.
(Still learning how to post mesages etc to cnczone forums, so if this post incorrectly apologies to all).

Cheers
Richard


[QUOTE=kiwichris;264758]Never fear.....

The steel shafting you can get from fletcher steel (Tube and steel) for not too much. You're looking for 'centerless ground rod', there are a couple of grades of the stuff, 4143 I think is the harder one they sell, can't remmember off the to of my head. Call their 0800 from the white pages and they'll quote you over the phone.

[kiwichris]

The Rockcliff is threaded rod, 1/4 by 20? It's mentioned somewhere in this thread I think. M6 is pretty close, or M8/1.5 will give you faster movement..

Not sure how it lasts in this type of applcation, but there are lots of people on this website using threaded rod / allthread for leadscrews, so it can't be all bad. :-).

Acetyl is good for the nuts from what I understand, I've got some phosphor bronze somewhere I might made some out of for my wee junk-box machine, although I'm just using a bit of cutting board for testing. (HDPE)

Good luck with your build...

[rab100]

Thanks - It'll be a few weeks before I get into it, but will keep you posted. Thanks for the interest.

Cheers
Richard

[idtkid]

Got the plans, got the hardware, ready to build but a few quick questions if I could.

#1 Why dont the plans call for the leadscrew to run from the motor to the other end of the machine? I have enough all thread to run into another nylon bolt if there are pros to that, if not why?

#2 Why do the plans call for a nylon nut? I have done a little reading about backlash and am just curious if by using a plastic nut backlash is slightly eliminated or what is the purpose?

#3 You guys who run these machines, are you just careful in setting up the jobs correctly or what is it that prevents the machine from driving the table to its fullest extent into the opposing part of the machine? (I have read about switches that are placed on each axis and im curious as to where i could find out more info on these if need be?)

Thanks in advance for your replies. Im very serious about this as it will be built in my school's shop (Art Institute of Pittsburgh) come the beginning of April, cant wait!

[Coolcuttings]

Got the plans, got the hardware, ready to build but a few quick questions if I could.

#1 Why dont the plans call for the leadscrew to run from the motor to the other end of the machine?


#2 Why do the plans call for a nylon nut?


#3 You guys who run these machines, are you just careful in setting up the jobs correctly or what is it that prevents the machine from driving the table to its fullest extent into the opposing part of the machine?

1# You don't need to run the full lenght of the table with the lead screw as it is not needed. I have run mine end to end and passed it through a skate bearing just to stop the whip effect when running at high speeds.

2# It is the cheapest option out there. When it wears out you just whack in another one. I run a teflon rod 2" nut which has been tapped to match the threaded rod and don't have any problems so far.

3# I run limit switches on all 3 axis of the machine (six in total) and these are set at normally closed hooked into mach 3. These you will see on my machine when you look at the Rockcliff web page. The wires that run along the top edge of my machine go to the limit switch.

If you are trying to figure which machine is mine, it is the one from australia and is enclosed in the sound proof box.

p.s. Nick if you have more to add please do.

CC

[charleybot]

Hello,

I recently finished building my first Rockcliff Router a few days ago and have been "fine tuning" the electronics/software(Mach3). I have to say right off that the plans were EXCELLENT, VERY EASY to follow. I am horrible at cutting wood so for me to be saying this, trust me, this is the one to build!

When I started building this machine I had ordered the Hitachi M12VC router as my spindle, however I am concerned about the weight on the Z-Axis(3+lbs).

Everything was built as close as possible to the plans (I'm not the greatest at cutting wood, so it took some time to get it right). Has anyone else with this CNC router ever used the M12VC as their spindle motor?

I also have an older sears dremel that I could use, but I have seen people not very happy with using dremels. I will be cutting either wood or pvc plastic(1/8" - 3/4") with this machine.

[lovebugjunkie]

Hello,

I recently finished building my first Rockcliff Router a few days ago and have been "fine tuning" the electronics/software(Mach3). I have to say right off that the plans were EXCELLENT, VERY EASY to follow. I am horrible at cutting wood so for me to be saying this, trust me, this is the one to build!

When I started building this machine I had ordered the Hitachi M12VC router as my spindle, however I am concerned about the weight on the Z-Axis(3+lbs).

Everything was built as close as possible to the plans (I'm not the greatest at cutting wood, so it took some time to get it right). Has anyone else with this CNC router ever used the M12VC as their spindle motor?

I also have an older sears dremel that I could use, but I have seen people not very happy with using dremels. I will be cutting either wood or pvc plastic(1/8" - 3/4") with this machine.

Charleybot

Charleybot

I have not even started mine yet, so take this from someone who has not a clue. I plan on using a Rotozip saw (since I already have one that gets no use at all).

[charleybot]

I was looking at the rotozips, might be the way to go...

Charleybot

Charleybot

I have not even started mine yet, so take this from someone who has not a clue. I plan on using a Rotozip saw (since I already have one that gets no use at all).

[snoyce]

Hi,

I am finished my machine. I would recommend it to anyone. It went together very easy and was not hard to setup. With my new CNChobby Pro board and 200 oz steppers, it will jog 60 inches per minute without stalling.

If I were to build it again, I would shorten the Z travel. The Z axis tool plate can come down on the X table and still have plenty of travel.

Thanks

Larry

I've just finished my rockcliff well 2 axis anyway and with 260oz steppers i cant get anywhere near 60 inches per minute without the motors stalling. I am using acme thread instead of threaded rod and linear bearings but im closer to 25 ipm. What could i be doing wrong?

[rockcliff]

I've just finished my rockcliff well 2 axis anyway and with 260oz steppers i cant get anywhere near 60 inches per minute without the motors stalling. I am using acme thread instead of threaded rod and linear bearings but im closer to 25 ipm. What could i be doing wrong?

I am not sure what motor controller you are using, but some controls can "microstep" (divide one phycical motor step into many steps), example: (Xylotex is factory shipped set to 1/8 microstepping) changing the microstepping setting to a smaller increment amount will usually gain speed and power, but at the same time will trade off some resolution.

Nick
http://www.rockcliffmachine.com

[cncisgroovy]

Hello all,

I bought the plans for the Rockcliff last week and I am in the process of getting the rods and bushings from McMaster-Carr. Hopefully I can start cutting the MDF this weekend if I'm not too busy shoveling snow.

Here's my question:

I plan on buying the steppers and controls from xylotex. They sell a complete 3 axis package for $475. They also sell a complete 4 axis package for just $50more. Can I buy the 4 axis package and just use 3 of the motors? Then in the future my plan would be to build a bigger table and incorporate the 4th axis. Is it as simple as leaving off the 4th stepper or am I going to get into trouble when it comes to running the software?

Thanks in advance for any help. This forum is a great resource. Hopefully I can post some pictures of my build soon.

Paul

[rockcliff]

Hello all,

I bought the plans for the Rockcliff last week and I am in the process of getting the rods and bushings from McMaster-Carr. Hopefully I can start cutting the MDF this weekend if I'm not too busy shoveling snow.

Here's my question:

I plan on buying the steppers and controls from xylotex. They sell a complete 3 axis package for $475. They also sell a complete 4 axis package for just $50more. Can I buy the 4 axis package and just use 3 of the motors? Then in the future my plan would be to build a bigger table and incorporate the 4th axis. Is it as simple as leaving off the 4th stepper or am I going to get into trouble when it comes to running the software?

Thanks in advance for any help. This forum is a great resource. Hopefully I can post some pictures of my build soon.

Paul

Hi Paul
Welcome
Buying the 4 axis is good, I have some larger machine designs coming out very soon, and the extra motor will come in handy, and also the extra motor could be used for a rotary turntable and many other things, the 4 axis Xylotex wil have no issues at all with only using 3 motors, if your going to use Artsoft it's as easy as one click to disable the axis.
Nick
http://www.rockcliffmachine.com

[dan dimock]

Rockcliff.

Have been looking at this machine, do you have plans that shows the table?
Dan

[lovebugjunkie]

Hi Paul
Welcome
Buying the 4 axis is good, I have some larger machine designs coming out very soon, and the extra motor will come in handy, and also the extra motor could be used for a rotary turntable and many other things, the 4 axis Xylotex wil have no issues at all with only using 3 motors, if your going to use Artsoft it's as easy as one click to disable the axis.
Nick
http://www.rockcliffmachine.com

Hi rockcliff
Larger maching designs . I have been holding off my build as I really need a 30-36 inch cutting area. Would one of your new designs be in this ball park?

[snoyce]

Just been setting up my x axis and somethings just occured to me, the plans say the x rods are 700mm long and the bed is 330mm. so for the bed to traverse from end to end under the cutter it needs to have a travel distance of 660mm which leaves 40mm clearance on the guide rods but the ends go through the supports and have blocks attached all at 19mm thick which means you lose 76mm of your available travel. so in short my cutter won't reach 36mm of the far extends of the table. DOH

This may already be fixed in the latest plans but i havent downloaded them as yet (too late now).

[rockcliff]

Just been setting up my x axis and somethings just occured to me, the plans say the x rods are 700mm long and the bed is 330mm. so for the bed to traverse from end to end under the cutter it needs to have a travel distance of 660mm which leaves 40mm clearance on the guide rods but the ends go through the supports and have blocks attached all at 19mm thick which means you lose 76mm of your available travel. so in short my cutter won't reach 36mm of the far extends of the table. DOH

This may already be fixed in the latest plans but i havent downloaded them as yet (too late now).

Hi snoyce
the table will be slightly larger than the actual travel of the machine, this is to allow some space around the edge, for clamps or any hold down fixtures, I see you have used one of marchantdice 123 bearing kits, I am currently looking at sizeing a version exactly for the bearings you have, as they have become popular, with the use of those bearing blocks, it will push the z and x slightly forward, but you can easily center your tool by moving the gantry forward or back to suit.

Your machine looks Great.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...ight=rockcliff

[wolfdagon]

Would the motors taken from a HP laseret III (100 oz/in) work on the rockliff machine? Also could I use the power supply from the printer and if so would it need to be modified in any way?

I don't have the plans yet, but I am pretty sure I am going to get them.

[dan dimock]

I Am using these motors on a larger machine and they do fine, I was told that the power supply would not work. I ended up buying one at a surplus place.Check with the people that you get you controller from they can tell you what you need.
Dan

[glenfraser]

Hi,
I,ve just ordered kit 3 from merchantdice.. It looks a nice kit having most of what i need in it. Kevin is helping this project along by making these kits. It makes life a bit easyer if you dont understand the metal work side of the project. Having done a calc on the price it also offers quite a cost saving as well. I look forward to building the kit along with the plans from Nick...
If it looks like snoyce,s photos i will be a happy man....

Glen

[snoyce]

Hi snoyce
the table will be slightly larger than the actual travel of the machine, this is to allow some space around the edge, for clamps or any hold down fixtures, I see you have used one of marchantdice 123 bearing kits, I am currently looking at sizeing a version exactly for the bearings you have, as they have become popular, with the use of those bearing blocks, it will push the z and x slightly forward, but you can easily center your tool by moving the gantry forward or back to suit.

Your machine looks Great.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...ight=rockcliff

Thanks for the reply, does seem to make sense the only reason it came up was i was planning my first cutting job to be leveling the spoilboard on the bed but obviously you cant level it if the travel does not reach the far extents of the bed.

That said made my first part today and it seems pretty level so far I recorded abit of video and took some new pictures which ill post up tommorow. For anyone in the planning stage, it's a great feeling when you see it making accurate cuts. Might not be as accurate as some of the more advanced routers on here but more than enough for hobby use.

Thought of an idea whilst typing this. I could raise the bed slightly on the bearing blocks and move the bearings slightly closer together which would allow the bed to overhang the guide rail supports which would give me that extra bit of travel at the expense of 10mm or so of z-travel.

Cheers

Steve