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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    253

    I'm in Tap and Die Hell



    I got 32 taps to do at 5/16-18 for my TSlots legs. Then I have another 24 at least for other parts. Doing this by hand is taking forever. I tried using a little oil. It does seem to help a little.

    Any other tips?

    On the upside, it's a no-brainer. So I can just sit in the garage during the sweltering heat and think of happier days while I work. LOL.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    363
    That's why they call it work.

    I find that WD40 is a good tapping fluid for aluminum.

    Gary

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    353
    I think if I faced that job I'd take the time to make a jig that would start the tap square and use a cordless drill with the clutch set light to do the job.

  4. #4
    Get some WD40 and a long movie.
    Proud owner of a Series II Bridgeport.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    634
    I agree with using a cordless drill, preferably one with a clutch. You would be done in an hour or so if you are careful

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    126
    Spiral taps and proper thread cutting fluid.

    Makes all the difference in the world. Makes WD40 and old standard taps seem like water in comparison.

    I only buy spiral now myself. big difference.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    87
    TAPMATIC!! Great tapping fluid. No sticking. No breaking. Like screwing a nut on a bolt. Get the kind for Alu.
    Mark
    DMG Designs
    League City, Texas

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1113
    Just guessing -- you want a cleaner look than using the 90 degree angle brackets they make? I admit that gear can be a bit pricy - with all the screws, and bits, BUT - you have nearly infinate adjustment range in all three axes - and you can use those to help square the rig too. On the other hand, I did some of that "Work-stuff" too so I could mount end fittings for motors, etc - tapped using WD-40.

    If it moves and shouldn't - Duct Tape it . If it should and it don't - WD40!
    Cheers - Jim
    Experience is the BEST Teacher. Is that why it usually arrives in a shower of sparks, flash of light, loud bang, a cloud of smoke, AND -- a BILL to pay? You usually get it -- just after you need it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    62
    Buy good taps. If the ones you are using came with that tap wrench then you sould invest in better quality. I would suggest two fluters that is what I use when I need to tap 80/20 at work.

    I aplogise for ragging on your tap wrench but it looks like the kind you get in the cheap Chinese import tap kits and I know those taps are lousy at best.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    253
    TAB:
    "...it looks like the kind you get in the cheap Chinese import tap kits..."
    I'm so embarrassed! LOL. Yes, the handle is from a cheap chinese import tap kit (ala Harbour Freight). The tap is from the local hardware store because the kit didn't have what I wanted in it. I think the tap is name brand.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    175
    when i'm tapping metal i use a mix of beeswax and kerosene works really good

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    101
    Have you tried selftapping screws, same as the industries uses I have seen it in Hewlett Packard instruments and some japaneese euqipment they often use it when aluminium profiles is used.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    564
    I use the drill to tap aluminum profile and cutting fluid. If I am in a hurry I'll just use the screw (bolt) itself, this works well when using BOSCH extrusion. Theire profiles are metric though, and I tap either 10 mm or 12mm depending on the profile. If what you are using is standard in diameter (mount holes) just run the 5/16 bolt into the hole with a socket head drive attached to your drill..............
    menomana

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    26
    I was at the local 80/20 supplier a while back and saw a neat gizmo that they had for tapping the extrusions . it was a piece of extrusion with the umhv pads to hold the extrusion to be tapped , and a die grinder held on its side in a jig to run a spiral tap .-----looked pretty slick , but at $2.00 a hole for the tapping service I opted for the hand method . --I did find it helped to bevel the holes with a countersink before starting the tap .

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    253
    Well, my arm was so sore today I had to let it rest. Between the 20 taps I did and working on a pickup I pulled a shoulder muscle pretty good. I took this small reprieve to go and buy a cordless drill: Coleman, 24 torque ranges, variable speed forward and variable speed reverse, 18 Volt. Plus, I got some hex-bits so I can assemble my machine with the drill (Tslot bolts have hex slotted heads). Now I'm as charged up as my new drill !

    High Seas:
    On some pieces I'm using internal attachments, some the external butt-joints, and still others are getting the brackets. I have a hodgepodge of hardware to mount it all. For the feet I had to make my own base plates and thus tap all the leg bottoms.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    101
    Hi,

    Look at this before you go on with your DIY tapping boring work, http://www.brycefastener.com/catalog.pdf
    They have self tapping machine screws and they are just so... yes yes!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    253
    To all the people who have used Taps in their cordless drills:

    How are you supposed to mount the Tap when it has a 4 sided end and drill-bits/drills use 3 sided ends? Drills have three pinchers on the chuck, not four. A four sided Tap ain't going to mount properly. It will wobble. I guess I'll go to the hardware store to see if they have an adapter, I kinda doubt it. All the Taps I own have four sided ends. All the Taps I have seen have four sided ends.

    So what am I missing?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    353
    Samult: I just slip the shank into the chuck !

    If you have problems snapping taps you can try a 2 flute gun tap as they're a bit stronger.(at the least try to stay away from taps with a relief under the tap flutes)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    634
    Samualt, yes, don't just grip the 4 sided end, but grip the round shank, just like a drill bit.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    253
    "yes, don't just grip the 4 sided end, but grip the round shank, just like a drill bit"

    The problem with that is it slips. You have three pinchers trying to tighten on a machined smooth round neck. It's trying to impart some torque, but then the Tap just starts slipping in the chuck. Hmmm....
    I did lightly cut some striations on the smooth round neck of the Tap with a dremal cutting blade, that helped the chuck grip the Tap a little better. But even that slips.

    You simply can't get there from here.
    1. Perhaps because my cordless drill has a keyless-chuck it won't tighten down enough.
    2. Prehaps I'm trying to use a cordless drill on too large of a tap. I'm trying to use a 5/16-18 tap. Maybe it is just to big of a cutting area.
    3. Perhaps my drill isn't strong enough because the one time it didn't slip it didn't cut very far at all before bogging down.

    I have no problems doing it manually. So I guess I have a few days of hand tapping still to do............arggghh!

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