[DonFrambach]

Thinking about getting the contact probe for IMService to help me zero my "Z" axis. Wondering if there are better (and less expensive!) options.

[snowshovelbmx]

there are many options for zeroing your z axis. I use the paper feeler method as it is quick easy and usually quite accurate and has the added bonus of costing pretty well nothing. You could also use an offline method of measuring your tool offsets and then pluging those numbers into your software.
chris.

[widgitmaster]

Thinking about getting the contact probe for IMService to help me zero my "Z" axis. Wondering if there are better (and less expensive!) options.

What I do on my manual bridgeport mill to set tool zero, is use an old .100" gage block! By sliding the gage on the part surface, and raising the knee slowly until the cutter makes a slight contact with the gage. Then I set the dial on the knee to zero, then turn the dial one turn.

Be carefull doing this with carbide end mills, as carbide is brittle and can chip really easy!

Hope this helps!

Widgit

[cyclestart]

I'm also using the 'touch-off' method on my hobby mill. Feeler gauges work well for this. They also do double duty as shim stock. Can never have enough of these things. Available anywhere guys (and sometimes gals) with grit under their fingernails hangout.

[Fixittt]

I use the paper method as well.
When I am making a ring (jewelry maker) My zero point is the center of the shank. I have a round piece of plastic that I made on my lathe. Its length is exactly from my table to the center of my 4th axis. I use a piece of paper to bring my tool down and touch off the top of the plastic rod. Zero the axis and Im all set

[Harryman]

I use an electronic tool setter like the Flexibar, I modified the spring inside to make it softer. I use carbide tools with down to .003 and .001 tips so I was afraind of chipping them. It works quite well. Got it on ebay for @ $70. It's also easy to make an electric sensor with a battery, light, some wire and alligator clamps or magnets.

I'll also use the touch off method with a plastic feeler when needed. I use plastic to keep from chipping tips as well.

I use a tool height setter with collars so I can swap bits without having to reset Z.

[under-dog]

I use the paper method.

Travers tools carries a small block thet lights up when the tool touches it. It has a very sensative sensor that detects slightest contact. The sale flyer ad I keep seeing it in states it is made for CNC tool setup.

It does not hook up to the machine
You are still manually setting up the tool and it basically replaces the "feel" you are using with the paper method with a visual signal.


It is relatively inexpensive. Under $10 I believe.


I have not tried it myself to vouch for the quality, accuracy and so on.

I am not sure if any other suppliers carry something similar.

I have been contemplating getting it next time I order from them.

[widgitmaster]

The electronic edge finders and tool setters do not work on plastic parts, as they do not conduct electricity to complete the circuit!

Widgit

[samco]

I have had good luck with microswitches.. Around .0007 repeatability.

[Bubba]

I setup an additional home switch which is adjustable in height. The home switch is set to the top of stock and when a tool change is issued, it "homes" on the additional switch therefore making its own tool length compensation. I have R8 tooling so presetting is just not going to cut it.

[tikka308]

they don't - but a quick fix can be seen in my video here on my blog: http://www.nyccnc.com/Herbie/HERBIES...ng_Delrin.html

Just attached an alligator clamp to the base!

The electronic edge finders and tool setters do not work on plastic parts, as they do not conduct electricity to complete the circuit!

Widgit

[ataxy]

i dont understand even if you put a gator clamp on the base when the probe will touch the plastic part you wont have any contact

[Rhodan]

I've been using a 1/4" endmill. The shank is .2495 diameter so I lay it on the workpiece and bring the tool down to just below the height of the shank. I then roll the shank toward the tool while jogging up in 0.001" increments. When the tool clears the shank and you can roll the shank under the tool I just type .2495 into the Z DRO.

When I'm doing circuitboards I do the above then switch to 0.0001 increments and repeat until I just clear the shank.

The important part is to measure the shank you want to use and always use the same area of the shank incase there are variations along the length.

[tikka308]

i dont understand even if you put a gator clamp on the base when the probe will touch the plastic part you wont have any contact

Take a look at the video. You're not actually touching the plastic part; you're putting a 2" metal height gauge on top of the plastic and using that to calc the offset height. If you use mach 3, you can set this 2" height in the offsets tab (once again - check out the video...)

cheers

[ataxy]

Take a look at the video. You're not actually touching the plastic part; you're putting a 2" metal height gauge on top of the plastic and using that to calc the offset height. If you use mach 3, you can set this 2" height in the offsets tab (once again - check out the video...)

cheers

ahhhh ok!

[curtis]

base when the probe will touch the plastic part you wont have any contact

It will in his case because he uses a metal block. alligator clips make for easy contact.

[Baketech]

I use a mix of methods depending upon the accuracy and speed required for a particular job. Some things the paper method works fine, others require the dowel rod method.

One I frequently use that hasn't been mentioned is the Jacob's shortcut...
For routine drilling etc, you can get the chuck close, then simply rest the tool on the surface then tighten the chuck...

Edit:
Forgot to menition...be heads-up when using conductive probes on anodized aluminum. They won't always give a good reading... :twocents:

[under-dog]

Have been using the paper touch off method for a long time

I just bought one of the enco tool setters after seeing the Herbie video on you tube. It just looked so easy accurate and cool to boot.


The biggest issue I have is with centering for fourth so What I plan to do is make a standoff block as someone mentioned earlier in the thread with one difference: I will make it so that the top of the electronic setter sits at dead zero to the center of my z axis instead of using the top of the block.



I have seen the Travers block as well in the slaes adds. Much cheaper than the enco but I like the ideal of the connected circuit rather than relying on pressure sensativity.