Are you looking for specifics on the pocket construction?
This info is only on the manufacturing prints and these prints are proprietary.
There are standard methods for pocket construction and some patented layouts.
You will sometimes find differences in pockets when buying the same cutters depending on who made the cutters. (they job a lot of this out)
Why not just measure one of your existing cutters and copy it?
Some tips:
Screw downs - offset the screw hole .003-.004 towards each wall to pull the insert back into the pocket. Screws are normally a 60 degree (special) head for ISO hole inserts. Standard hole tolerance in the insert is .006 TIR.
Pocket walls are typically 1 degree less than the insert to insure that the insert seats on the top of the wall. (an 11 degree insert pocket is cut with a 10 degree endmill).
Insert must not touch the wall at the bottom because there will be a small rad left by the endmill. Walls are often undercut when finishing the pocket floor. Some inserts have a small chamfer on the bottom to give this clearance and to provide dirt relief.
Negative insert walls are often cut with a 1/2 degree backtaper endmill.
NL pins are even more fun (36 degree cones with a special offset dependent on size), CLP (or tilt pins) are a real PITA.
Yes cutter bodys are often sold at or below cost (sometimes given away for free). I often tell people it's like the Pez candy dispensers. The dispenser is free but we're going to get you on the candy.
Bob
You can always spot the pioneers -- They're the ones with the arrows in their backs.