[DerHammer]

I have a Fanuc 0ma controller and its developing a new problem. I just came in from the garage quite discouraged because it would seem that 4 or 5 of my buttons decided fritz out. By this, I mean that their coming in and out of functionality. I'm not sure if this will help or not but the 4 buttons in particular that I'm noticing the most trouble with are: "-, #3, coolant off, 1k federate multiplier, and -z jog".

First thought was maybe dirty contacts, but this seems unlikely to me because they all seem to have developed the issue at the same time. I'm no expert but it seems like that would suggest something electronic going on right? Sometimes it will take 2 pushes to activate and other times it will take 15. If any fanuc controller expects out there have any advice, it would be greatly appreciated. I can't afford to bring a tech out so if this gets worse, I'm in trouble.

[Al_The_Man]

If it is operator panel push buttons/switches rather than Keypad, then these can be readily seen on the diagnostic inputs, the inputs are X values.
If a few functions seem intermittent or erratic, then is could be a loose 24v feed to these switches that are common to them all.
Al.

[DerHammer]

Hi Al,

I'm really really hoping that a loose connection is all it is but wouldn't it be the case that all the buttons would be malfunctioning if it were? How do I know what to cable to check? Ive peeked in the back and its pretty scary looking, what should I do first?

[DerHammer]

I was thinking about your post Al, and if I understand what your saying correctly than I should be able to go into my diagnostic parameters and see a bit value change when I'm pushing a button which is giving me trouble. Problem is that theres about a 1000 parameters right? Do you happen to know the different ranges which apply to the different areas of the controller? For instance, what parameters correspond the number keypad, which goes to the coolant area, feedrate multipliers, etc .

Also, I'm running 10HP rotary phase converter that was supposed to be for cnc applications but I suspect it might be kind of cheaply made. now this could all be in my head but it almost seems like sometimes it will work better if I power down, kill the converted, than restart it. Will a bunk converted cause haywire behavior like that or is this my imagination?

[Al_The_Man]

I did not catch this reply until now,
The inputs are MTB dependant, I usually spot the page by turning the feedrate knob back and forth, this way you should see a few inputs changing in BCD fashion, this will generally be your operator input page.
The 24 v line is usually daisy chained through the switches, if one wire comes loose or breaks, some or all of the switches will quit.
I don't think a RPC will cause it.
Al.

[DerHammer]

Thanks for the input Al. I haven't posted sooner because the problem tapered down briefly. However, today it came back stronger than ever, so something needs to be fixed. It would seem that my #3 button on the keypad has almost quit working entirely and my #7 is on its way right behind it.

I tried what you suggested about scrolling through my Dia. Parameters while turning the federate knob but I still couldnt find any parameters changing, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. What should be my first course of action to get this resolved?

[Al_The_Man]

This sounds like another problem, as I mention in a previous post, the #3 & #7, if on the Keypad is a different issue than the function Operator switches not working, the keypad goes into the monitor card, and the operator panel switches go into I/O. These are wired in to inputs assigned by the OEM and are fed off the 24vdc supply.
If keypad problem, then you may need a new keypad assembly.
Operator function switches not working are usually wiring related, or the sw itself.
IIRC, on the 0 the panel inputs are usually on the first page of the diagnostic.
Make sure you are not looking at the Parameter page instead.
Al.

[DerHammer]

I don't know if this helps or not but today, everything was working again and then midway through the day, the #3 starting acting as before. I got mad and then hammer fisted it the right under the keypad and it started working again. I don't know if this is a coincidence or suggestive of something being loose. It then happened again later, so I again hit the thing a few times and it came back. I don't know if this is just a weird coincidence in timing because it was coming and going before I started punching the machine ...but it does seem like I can accelerate its finickiness by doing so.

Another thing which bothers me. The keypad is by far the most problematic at the moment but I have seen spotting behavior from other places on the controller like the coolant button, cycle stop and the 1k jog rate modifier. I would totally be thinking it was the keypad also if it wasn't for that lurking fact. Also, I'm not familiar with allot of lingo used on this site quite yet. What does SW and IIRC mean?

[philserveng]

open the panel to the keypad, and with the nc off try unplugging and plugging in all the connectors a few times. This will remove any oxidation form the pins....it sometimes helps but not always. Make sure all the connectors on the nc side are correctly seated and the fastening screws are tight. It is probable the ketpad has some worn components indide causing the probelm. Here in England we have third party companies who repair all things Fanuc......maybe you should shop around for a replacement. The fanuc number will be on a yellow or silver sticker on the keypad.

[Al_The_Man]

Also, I'm not familiar with allot of lingo used on this site quite yet. What does SW and IIRC mean?

SW=switch. IIRC If I recall Correctly.
Al.

[DerHammer]

thanks for the tip Phil, ill be sure to give that a shot the next time it acts up... and thanks for the clarification on the lingo Al .

I'm a young guy who's doing the full time college thing, so I've been pretty busy with that lately. Being the case, I haven't had much time to go and tinker with it but ill be sure to post an update on how stuff is working probably this weekend. Cheers!

[DerHammer]

so I finally got some free time today and spent a good portion of the day on my machine. It now would appear that #3 has come back for the time being but now my 1k feedrate is still dead and my #2 is gone completely. Loosing the #2 is actually worse since I now can't use my G92 to zero my parts. I tried thumping the machine like before, which didn't work, then I opened up the back and checked the tightnesses on the cables, which appeared ok. My panel is all soft key, so I can hear the buttons click when I push them but I'm not sure this is really a proper way to determine whether or not the keypad is functioning correctly. The first place I would target normally would be the keypad since the machine is pretty old and thats where the only moving parts are but theres that dead jog rate button located on a completely different circuit board. Could I have two buttons go mechanically dead on different areas of the controller at the same time or is this likely another problem?

[theemudracer]

This sounds like another problem, as I mention in a previous post, the #3 & #7, if on the Keypad is a different issue than the function Operator switches not working, the keypad goes into the monitor card, and the operator panel switches go into I/O. These are wired in to inputs assigned by the OEM and are fed off the 24vdc supply.
If keypad problem, then you may need a new keypad assembly.
Operator function switches not working are usually wiring related, or the sw itself.
IIRC, on the 0 the panel inputs are usually on the first page of the diagnostic.
Make sure you are not looking at the Parameter page instead.
Al.

Go back and read all of "AL The Man's" post. He told you how to trace the problem down. Good luck

[DerHammer]

Heres the update since last post,

I checked the diagnostics menu and found that line #26 corresponds to the keypad buttons. I went through all the buttons all over the controller, which all seemed to relate to surrounding diagnostic lines on the same page and when I got to those few problematic buttons, I would get no bit changes. I then wiggled and messed around some more with the buttons, like pushing harder, holding down, etc, and they came back alive again, still finicky to some extent but non the less, I did get some activity back out of them.

So, heres what I'm thinking.. It seem to me that the problem is most likely physically dying keypad switches, but whats bothering me the most is the fact that theres problematic buttons across the controller, opposed to being isolated all to one area. Taking a look at the #keypad for instance. If it was indeed "pipe trouble" in the cables, I don't think I would have any buttons functionality at all from that specific problem area. Like my #2 button may not work but all its surrounding buttons will. correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the whole block be dead since the buttons in that board work in a matrix? Then theres the fact that the issue is intermittent, which seem highly unlikely to me that if a chip or board was "toasted". Usually troubled electronics are "broke" or "not broke", so overall I'm starting to lean towards the belief that my switches themselves are randomly starting to ware since thats were the moving parts are. That and it is from 1987 so it has some years on it now. If any other users have had similar trouble, please let me know how you resolved it and Al, if you happen to read this, what are you thoughts given the new info. Also what does SW mean? thanks