To confirm I drilled the holes on the drill press... I did this becuase I did all my work with a 1/4" cutter which was to big to create the holes.
To confirm I drilled the holes on the drill press... I did this becuase I did all my work with a 1/4" cutter which was to big to create the holes.
Buzz you have the files? the link did not work for me for some reason for your site "VacumeHead4.zip" or a link to your latest.
like to check it out.
Joe
Joe,
OK the problem... firefox and IE.... one allows relative paths and one requires direct paths to files. Going to fix that now... but
I think I need to fix this one to tell you a newer set of plans is out.... the plans you are looking at are for an older version of the dust collector. You need to go further down the main cncmachine page and select the "Yet Another Dust Collector". This one contains the more resent dust collector and deflector. I believe these are the ones you want. If not let me know.
does this look like yours? 1/2" thick, 0.35" step down, may work?
Edit replaced picture with updated.
That's it. Not sure if you did but I cut it down to the hieght of the main circle first @.31" (pocket the big circle). Then all you need is a new set of screws as the existing ones in the router are just a tad to short. You know my first versions were in MDF and they would work perfectly, you really don't need plastic.
I am making Joes vacuum and I got to looking and his vacuum assembly covers most of the router. I am not sure if I need to make one.
Joe, do you still get a lot of down draft on your vacuum assembly?
Also no one has still said anything about the wood holders that screw onto the c clamps for joes machine. I just need specs soon. I am cutting everyting out next weekend and I have to finish the layout so PLEASE can someone one give me specifics on it.
I do not have the 06 anymore, i sold it to move to designing the 4x4, the 06 cut the parts for the 1st two 4x4 i built.
But i am going to make the deflector for the new 4x4 anyway, it will not hurt for sure, I know guys on shopbot was compaining about that also and made it for the PC router.
Joe
Ok, for those who want a cad program and can not afford Acad, here is the new ProgeCad 2008 Smart. it is free for personal use, and acts just like acad. So it is a great alternative for people to measure and dimension the drawings files.
http://www.progecad.com/compra/index...age=1&lang=eng
Joe
Awesome! My trial on Rhinoceros CAD (my personal favorite) just ran out, so I'm looking for some new programs. I'll definitely check it out. Thanks
Flyon,
I bought the T-Slot bit at MLCSWoodworking. Here is the link:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops..._cutter_Anchor
I was able to do the entire slot in one pass.
The "other" Joe
Changing the subject I am experiencing some racking the x axis of my machine .A reference was made to a cable system used in pocket doors some time ago .The system involves cables and pullies and was available at Lowes. I checked my local Lowes yesterday and they either don't have them or never had them .
So the question is does anyone recall the manufacturer ??? regards mike hide
>Has anyone made a T-Slot table for joes yet? I know I can buy one but don't have the budget to buy one. I didn't know if mdf would be strong enough to make a T-slot table out of. I would only need 4 slots or 3. Could I use 1/2" or would I have to use 3/4" for the bed?<
I built a "T-Slot" table top for my machine... using individual 5 inch wide strips of MDF, with a shallow rabbet cut into the bottom edges. I used T-Bolts from Woodcraft... No router bit or other fancy stuff was required. I just cut the rabbets with a dado blade on my table saw, although you could accomplish the same thing by turning the pieces up on edge, and cutting them with a standard blade. OR... you could just glue on some 1/8 or quarter inch masonite to the bottom of the MDF strips. Anything that provides a gap between the bottom of the MDF and the actual table top would work fine.....
I was WAY overthinking this... with aluminum extrusions, T-Slot router bits, etc. None of that stuff is necessary.... The secret is the T-Bolts that Woodcraft ( and probably other places sell....)
You can see photos of my setup in my "Joe's 2006 in Albuquerque" log... right here in this section of the CNC Zone.
-Taylor
I used the Cable "Moving Knot" system and got rid of my racking in about 45 minutes. Thanks for the pointers everyone.
I don't know about the moving knot system but I did install a Paralok fence system on a craftsman table saw awhile back and it works on the same principle. It worked flawlessly, but from what I understand Paralok is no longer in business.
...He who makes no mistakes makes nothing! ...
Tom
Hello to Ultimate Machinist Community!
Now I say our community.
Best regards
Krsta Brcic
I do not see anyway to initiate a new post on these forums, please show me the majic procedure .
I was thinking about a forth axis for my system ,the electronics is in place ,it just amouts to adding the hardware in the x axis.
My question concerns threading relatively large diameters.The outside diameter should pose no problems as I see it. The inside threads are another problem ,even if the spindle could some how be inserted in the inside diameter which in most cases is not feasable for several reasons not the least of which is physical bulk. So I was wondering if someone makes a right angle drive for a router or laminate trimmer ? I am not sure if a double bevel gear would would take the router speeds for any length of time.perhaps a small belt driven spindle might work .I just do not know of a manufacturer that does this kind of small scale work.....regards mike hide
Mike,
Are you meaning to start a new thread? If so you must be in the main thread section and you will see a new thread button in the upper left of the section you want to post.
...He who makes no mistakes makes nothing! ...
Tom
Hi guys , just need to confirm !!! , on the gantry , the top torsion box has 1/4 inch skins and the bottom one has 1/4 inch skins too ????